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HybridZ

Solid rear end


Guest Jeff Rimmer

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Scottie Nailed a bunch of things perfectly. As with any project, you should design it for the intended use. I think Scottie made a bunch of comments that are exactly why some of these guys are suffering from rear failures. I also think that the 200R is strong enough with the 280 Stub axles and CV axle shafts. That will be my next move before shelling out serious bucks for custom axles.

 

Myron, My pump is mounted beind the rear bumper on the inside of the rear tail light panel. However, when those axles go, they tend to swipe the reasr brake line and that bothers me much more, because I have a oil presure cut off switch in the event that the pump were taken out, which would eventually cause the motor to starve for fuel and stall. But if you got no brakes half way down the 1320, you are in deep poop.

 

Mike

 

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"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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Seems like if you can MIG weld (or pay someone to) making up halfshaft loops would not be such a big deal. Hang them well from the floor, and crossbeam above the diff, and have them so that they are just a tad wider than the OD of the halfshafts, and allow an extra inch top and bottom for the full throw of the suspension. One right at 1/2 length of the half shaft on each side. Make sure that if either end broke, the loose end would not be able to reach up to take out the brake line or fuel pump/lines. Some 1" by 1/4" steel (would they except AL? Probably not) from the steel yard, some bolts, some backing plates, etc. If you couldn't get enough containment with one, you could do one inboard and one outboard, but I don't think you'd need it.

 

I don't see it as a big deal. (Your) time or money to have them fabbed and you are safe and legal.

 

Since I won't be beating my car to death at the drag strip, and I have CV's and 280Z stubs, I'm not going to worry about my car. The wimpy 350hp 327 won't be too hard on it, and I have a light touch.

 

Yeah, the halfshaft hoops weigh a bit, but it would at least be at the correct end of the car wink.gif. I wonder if they'd allow lightening holes in the hoops wink.gif.

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Jeff I have had great luck with the independant rear and I love the handling .I was worried at one time they couldn't stand up. I think becuase my z has an automatic, stock coils and no rear sway bar is why it still lives. I had installed 4 half shaft loops before my last race with the slicks for piece of mind,ran consistant 1.60 60 foot times and cut .550 lights. Proving if you take into account the squat, the z cars can react too.

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I've had this idea for preventing IRS squat and providing better weight transfer:

 

If you were to add side-to-side sway bars that go from the front arms to the rear arms, the bars would transfer more weight to the rear on accelerating, transfer weight to the front on braking, and keep the car more level in these events so camber angles don't change as much. Start/stop faster, help prevent understeer when braking, and power induced oversteer.

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Jason,

You are thinking of a torque tube kinda design except mounted between the front and rear suspension? Interesting... Never thought about that. I had looked at a torque tube running from the trans back to the differential, but it is tight in the trans tunnel and I'm not sure any value would be gained... OK Guys, lets kick this one around a bit...

 

Mike

 

------------------

 

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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Sort of. The purpose of this wouldn't be to stiffen the chassis like a conventional torque tube, but to provide controlled resistance from the front arms moving independently of the rear arms.

 

I was thinking of 2 sway bars, 1 linking the left front and rear arms, the other on the right f/r arms.

They would work with the same principles as conventional front/rear stabilizer bars that limit body roll and provide side to side weight transfer, only they would run front to back, and work in the front-to-back direction.

 

Front/rear stabilizer bars are common on most cars because body roll is a problem. But squatting/diving and front/rear weight transfer are very not important for most cars (otherwise why have a FWD car), so you would never find stabilizer bars that affect these things on conventional cars.

 

IF only my RC car was still working...I could try it.

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John, do you have a digital camera or are they photos on paper? You could mail photos to me (I seem to be scanning alot of photos for people here these days - Just wait a few days or so and there will be TWO nice additions to the members rides page!)

 

Or if you have a digital camera and can get them on your computer, email the pictures to me. If you need help, don't hesitate to email me - Back many years ago I had ZERO computer skills, and now I know enough to be dangerous and get a few things done. wink.gif Nothing a little studying can't fix wink.gif.

Just be glad the only way to the Internet isn't Unix anymore. wink.gif

 

 

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Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@home.com">pparaska@home.com -

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