bryan01 Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 i've looked around and can't find the part number for an exhaust manifold stud for a rb25det. anyone know where to get one, or if it's on any other cars here in america? now, on to removing the stud. when i went to remove my manifold, i noticed that 2 studs were missing. when i pulled everything off, of course, i saw that they were sheared off just below the face of the head. i was able to pull one out with an easy out from sears (the square, hand held kind), but when i went to pull out the other the bit broke inside the stud. i then tried re-drilling it to no avail, the broken piece in the center of the stud probably stronger than the drill bit. then i whipped out the mig welder. i tried welding a bolt to the end of the stud, but it always broke off. i then tried just welding to the end of the stud, and it would always break off. the stud will move in the head, but it's like it gets up to the last thread and stops ... maybe the thread is destroyed? anyways, one time the weld broke off the broken piece of the ez out actually came with it. hurray, now i have a hole again, so i drilled up to the next size ez out and it stripped when using it, then i tried the next size with the same result. i'm running out of size to drill, so i didnt go any bigger on the ez outs. i was thinking of buying the reverse thread ez outs and trying that, but a friend told me how to make one out of a concrete nail, the ones that are about 1/16" sq at one end and are about 2.5" long, and transition into a rectangle at the other end, about 1/16"x 1/4" maybe ... anyways, i cut it short to the point where it stuck in the hole and started to grab, then i cut it a lil shorter, and grinded the sides to a point, so that it would grab in the counterclockwise direction, and it worked a little bit, but it snapped off in the stud ... _(*#^%(#% ... now i have to remove that attempt, but at this point i ran out of daylight and was too frustrated to think clearly so i packed it up for the night. any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Why don't you just drill out the broken off piece of OE stud, then re tap the alum? I know... its hard to get right w/o messing up the alum a bit. What I've done is drill out the left over steel OE stud, then drill the alum to the size needed to install a helicoil insert. I've bought them at the auto parts store before. Don't worry so much about it being metric or standard, as you can find either type new stud at a good hardware store. I ended up using the next size up anyways because of the alum getting buggered up when removing the broken off stud. If you really want to fix the problem, then remove all the OE studs and install helicoils with brand new black oxide studs. Thats what I did... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan01 Posted April 11, 2008 Author Share Posted April 11, 2008 after talking it over, that was the idea. i was just so pissed at running out of daylight and having to pack it up w/o getting both studs out ... but i'm going to keep drilling out the stud, try the bigger ez out, and if that doesnt work, finish drilling, including the threads, and heli-coil it ... it was such a pain in the *** thou that i dont think i'd want to redo ALL my studs that way. or do i risk(high risk?) breaking another stud when installing the new manifold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 I actually pulled my head when I broke a few off. I had the machine shop remove them. I special ordered grade 10.8 (or is it 10.9) bolts from a fastener shop, and cut the heads off. I threaded the studs in until they bottomed in the head. There is enough thread engagement where there is no chance of them pulling out. God forbid they break again, which I don't think they will. ARP makes a ridiculously expensive kit for exhaust studs too. Evan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadianz Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 I found its a lot easier and cheaper to simply take one of the good studs to a nissan dealer and get them to pick out some studs that are the same from their parts bin. I did have the part numbers for the studs and nuts around somewhere but when I called the dealer to order them in.... it was almost $10... for ONE stud! Maybe its because I'm in Canada, I don't know, but save a buck and just go to the dealer and get similar studs, its like less than 1/3 the cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 14064-5L301 is a washer that is about 8 - 10 mm thick. 01151-00471 is the M10 x 1.25 thread pitch stud. 12 per vehicle for each item. expect to pay 2+ dollars for each. Check your dealer first... still cheaper than ARP. Don't quote me on which is which. it's not listed in the FAST Diagram. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 and as far as I've checked, no cross reference to US part numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadianz Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 My brother posted earlier but I believe the studs we ended up using from our local dealer were off a maxima. Not 100% on that one but Im pretty sure, just take em in and get em checked, its the easiest route unless you have an awesome hardware/ fastener store around. Its usually easier to tell them its non automotive and make sure your get a good grade than to try and explain what its for. We have had some stores say "we don't sell automotive fasteners so don't ask" but in reality they have hi grade parts that are designated for other uses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 and as far as I've checked, no cross reference to US part numbers. If the thread pitch is correct (which I think it is), then any vg33 engine uses those same studs and washers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 weird. I couldn't find them in the parts master list. perhaps I don't have my FAST set up the way I had it before. it keeps giving me errors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan01 Posted April 12, 2008 Author Share Posted April 12, 2008 oh man look at all that info, a picture even, nissan here in CT is NO HELP at all. one of the guys actually laughed at me the first time i called... but yeah, the process continues, i've got about 90% of the stud out of the one hole, there's bits left near the threads and b/c of the angle i'm having to drill at it's hard to get to ... i'm working on it thou, i'm trying everything i can not to pull the head or the engine just for 2 freakin studs ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 oh, and you can buy them from here. http://www.nismoparts.com/catalog/?section=822 they are the same part number as number 2 that i listed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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