RagingPanda Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 A shop is currently boiling my tank right now. I was going to let them do the coating/sealing also but they charge me $120 for it....yea. I searched on Hybridz and found three brands I can use to do it myself. http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=TS&dept=12 http://www.hirschauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GTS or epoxy post by technomancer in http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108964&highlight=gas+tank+paint Which one should I buy or is there a cheaper alternative locally I can get without waiting for it to get it? thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 I just researched this and yesterday ordered the Hirsch stuff based on some reading, but nothing in depth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mn_Z_Man Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 The POR15 kit works great IF you follow the instructions exactly regarding the tank drying before you coat it. Cost is $70. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingPanda Posted April 29, 2008 Author Share Posted April 29, 2008 Update: I got the tank back from a radiator shop, looking nice and clean. I also got a quart of gas tank sealer. This may be a stop question but I have to take out the sending unit with the floater before I put the sealer in? I just want to make sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mn_Z_Man Posted April 29, 2008 Share Posted April 29, 2008 Yep, then tape all the openings with duct tape. Pour the sealer in through the filler opening, then tape that up real good. Slowly rotate the tank 360 degrees, uside down, sideways, for 10 min. let it sit for a few, then repeat. Hang the tank upside down, so the extra stuff drains out the filler tube. blow through the 2 fuel lines to make sure there open, and let it cure according to the directions. What brand did you get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingPanda Posted April 30, 2008 Author Share Posted April 30, 2008 Hirsch Auto, mainly because of the price. I think they both will work so eh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 How much was it to have the tank cleaned/boiled? I'm going to need to have it done too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 How much was it to have the tank cleaned/boiled? I'm going to need to have it done too. Mine was $95 in Northern California to have it boiled, acided, and washed out. Picking it up tomorrow. The sealer from Hirsch arrives tomorrow as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingPanda Posted April 30, 2008 Author Share Posted April 30, 2008 $84 for me but I don't know if they acided it and what's not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 If you got the acid you need to coat it RIGHT AWAY. It will rust a bit over night (I just noticed). I did my Hirsch a few moments ago. I used a pint. Just tape it up, dump it in, roll it around, drain it out. Don't let it puddle. Let it air out. I have a 240z replacement tank which has baffles in it (wonder if this is a rare tank??? It is a 1986 replacement but the 240z style). The stuff will be a pain to drain out if you have baffles. I had a bit of a puddle I couldn't drain so I took the end of my hydraulic jack handle, coated it in paper towel and duct taped it on... then I swabbed. Helped a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatMan Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 I researched getting Marine Clean, metal etch and POR 15 shipped to me, as well as boiling the tank locally. It would have cost more with the shipping than the $165 I was charged for the boil, clean and red coat sealer, warranteed for a year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingPanda Posted May 1, 2008 Author Share Posted May 1, 2008 i guess they didn't acid it because they had it for several days after boiled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownrusty Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 I would never seal a gas tank!! Over time those coatings will eventually fail in chunks and cause more problems than actual rust in the tank. The key is to keep your tank full most of the time and not run in low and keep it low. Remember gasoline is one of the most powerful solvents and will eventually eat away at these coatings I have done this more times than I care to remember and I NEVER re-seal or re-coat a tank - waste of time and money. Remember the factory does not even seal the tank. I have seen supposedbly the best - POR and Eastwood coatings also fail over time. BTW, when a gas tank is boiled, it is done so in moderately strong Caustic Soda which is Sodium Hydroxide, so it is not an Acid like most people think. Regards - Yasin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 Well they boiled it, then they said they dumped acid in. When I picked it up a day late (my fault) there was already a consistent thin layer of surface rust. I will take their word for it. Interesting about the coating, I guess we will have to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatMan Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 I specifically asked about the coating failing and either floating around in the tank, or effectively having a balloon in my tank. They told me that the VERY FIRST tank EVER coated by Red Coat in 1986 is STILL in service today in one of their company vehicles. I was told by the owner of the readiator shop that this stuff is formulated to withstand the ethanol, additives and gasoline over time. Lip service? Maybel. But at least I have a year warranty, something I wouldn't have if I did it my self. Heck, if it fails, then it would give me reason to go with a fuel cell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse OBrien Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 Well they boiled it, then they said they dumped acid in. When I picked it up a day late (my fault) there was already a consistent thin layer of surface rust. I will take their word for it. Interesting about the coating, I guess we will have to see. Where did you get your tank done? I work in Oakland (live in Vallejo) and I really don't know the area very well, but I'd like to find a few good shops for stuff like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 Where did you get your tank done? I work in Oakland (live in Vallejo) and I really don't know the area very well, but I'd like to find a few good shops for stuff like this. B and M radiator in Sacramento. I am currently at UC Davis which is why I got it done up here. I would just look for a radiator shop on the white pages. B and M said they wouldn't coat it since my tank was baffled and it would build up or something. I went ahead and coated it anyway making sure to remove as much of the liquid as I could. I think it came out fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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