300zxt CV upgrade combinations

[Kash]

getZs, I took off the entire 6 mm at the end of axles and did away with the end snap rings and that did the trick. Been drive the car for the past 500 miles at speeds above 120 with no problem. Both axles sliped right in with no issues after this mod, the end snap rings are useless when installed on the S30...don't believe it will see enough slack to cause an issue.

[rudypoochris]

getZs, I took off the entire 6 mm at the end of axles and did away with the end snap rings and that did the trick. Been drive the car for the past 500 miles at speeds above 120 with no problem. Both axles sliped right in with no issues after this mod, the end snap rings are useless when installed on the S30...don't believe it will see enough slack to cause an issue.

 

Can't you just lathe/machine/cut off wheel a recess into the shaft just a bit farther up? That way you keep functionality. I might do this anyway if it makes sense.

[getZ]

Can't you just lathe/machine/cut off wheel a recess into the shaft just a bit farther up? That way you keep functionality. I might do this anyway if it makes sense.

 

I thought about doing exactly that, but you have to move both ring grooves. On the other end of the ball bearing cage there is another end stop ring (about a mm thick). I may still go that route, but grinding off 4mm may be enough to do the trick. Not sure I want to go without the snap ring, it would allow the inner part of the ball bearing cage to slide into the end of the stub axle which may or may not be a problem.

[getZ]

Well, I grinded off about 5mm off the end of the CV and that looks like all I will need. Dan was right, a little grinding here and there and it fits without a problem, at least on my setup. I took about 4mm off the stub axle (couple thread still showing on the nut) and 5mm off the CV (end cap removed).

 

Just to make sure everything was going to be okay, I took the spring out and moved the suspension through its travel. You get the most binding from the CV to the axle at full droop, not compression. A little gasket sealer on the companion flange to the CV and it's a done deal.

 

The picture with the nut in between the outer CV and the companion flange is the suspension on the end stop (full compression). You can see gap between the stub axle and the CV actualy get parallel, thus creating an even larger gap.

[FREDDYRENATO]

:biggrin:Yes!!! iI did exactly the same thing and it worked good, I was able to keep the cap on and still had about 1/4" clearance, great job!!.

[Kkittels]

I was having the same problem with binding on the right side of my z31t cv setup. I ended up getting another left side shaft and swapping out the shafts by popping off the inner cv of the right side shaft and putting it onto the shorter shaft from the second left side shaft. Doing this ended up shortening the whole thing about a 1/4 of an inch.

[joeygoz1]

Hello KKittels

 

I'm also experiencing the same problem with my 73 240Z. I ordered a left side half shaft in order to switch out the center shaft over to the right side that way I keep the same spline that would clip into the diff . Do I need a special tool in order to reclamp the boots back on and if so what is it called? Did you also flip the cages on both sides aswell?

[Kkittels]

I used some ear type CV boot clamp pliers. I did still flip the cages on both sides.

[bjhines]

You can use END-Cutting pliers. They are like SIDE-Cutting pliers but they are for pulling finish nails through the back-sides of trim boards(to reuse the trim pieces). They are not sharp enough to cut the stainless-steel clamp beads before you get them fully clamped.