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can't make it stop acting up under wot


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i have a 82' 280zxt with a jim wolf modify ecu, 420 cc injector, ford maf meter, 60mm throttle body, common fuel rail with fuel pressure guage. after market oil cooler, water and oil temp, 5'' tach, hks boost controller oil bypass with remoute mount filter base.

 

i have a hard time under a load it stalls, stumbles what ever you want to call it. i jsut will not jsut get up and go under WOT. its like it has to think about it. it's almost like it's a sour pouch kid, there sour...then sweet. :cry:

 

 

when i pick up the car and brought it home to its new home west texas. it ran fine in the winter up untill last week when it got around 100+ temp. its runs ok in open-loop, but as soon as it gets around 150 temp and goses closed-loop it starts acting up like it dose know what how much fuel to give it under a cruise at 2,500 rpm. when you try to step on it just bucks back and forth like the key is beeing turned off and on really fast.

 

 

i have search for a week now going on 35 hours of searching and can not find any thing. have check the tps, maf meter, head temp, coolant temp sensor, throttle body, plug wires, all the ground and cleaned all the elec connectors. everything has check out ok . replaced the plugs (with NGK), cap and rotor, new head temp, tps, crane cams fireball coil. still nothing can any one help me plz.

 

 

i must of pissed off the Z GODS or something! :fmad:

 

i did have a narrow air/fuel/ratio gueage hooked up to the single wire o2 sensor and some one told me it might be taken the voltage reading form the ecu and playing with the fuel number. so i disconnected it still nothing. tried unhooking the tps so that it would run rich still acting up like it did before. have set the timming to 20 degree btdc nothing was at 13ish. and the really weird thing is that today when i left to work this morning it ran fine but when i was idling to let my turbo cool down it was idling around 500 and buffing little black clouds of smoke, then just started to idle fine like nothing happend. so when it was acting up thought the fuel pressure was jumping around and playing with it or something. checked and it was a steady 35-40 psi. rpm guage was even jumping at that low rpm. normaly the rpm range is 1,000 cold and around 850ish. when it get warm.

 

so dose any one know what the hell is going on with my car i would really like to drive it like i stole it. the way it was ment to be drivin. or am i just the lucky or unlucky guy that has this single problem?

 

call me: 432-853-8999

email me: butters240z@yahoo.com

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ok check the intake piping it held 25 psi.

 

replaced the fuel pump started to howl at me and make funny nosies still the same issue.

 

check the ford maf meter nothing it was clean but still cleaned it to be on the safe side.

 

adjusted the tps but its kinda hard since i'm running 1,000 rpm for an idle.

 

check the timing and found it to be around 13 degrees. so i set it too 23ish degree. its kindahard to see past 20 degree mark. while we were adjusting the damn timing for like the 5 time kinda got me to thinking is it possiable for the dizzy to move on its own under a load or did i not jsut tighten the bolts and jsut left them a little bit loose. no they were tight.

 

so i have no idea on what is going on and i kind need to get it fixed asap it is my daily driver.

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Have you tried replacing the O2 sensor?

 

You say it runs fine in open loop (warm up) but once warm and goes into closed loop, that's when it runs poorly.

 

Compression test?

Vacuum leaks?

Fuel pressure at WOT/under load?

 

Check your ground between your engine block and chassis/battery, I've seen this be the culprit of far too many "incurable running issues".

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i have just replaced the o2 sensor and went for a test drove still doing the same thing but i did notice a gain in throttle response. withc is nice but still hesitating when you step on it and try to go wot.

 

no vacuum leak sprayed everything to find a leaks with b12, nothing at all

 

can not check the fuel pressure under a load can find any one to be straped to the fender with the hood off and check it for me. but under no load tot

 

did check the temp of everything from the top tobottom and front to back.

 

temp:

valve cover: 140

head: 200

thermostat: 180

block: 170

oil pan: 180

intercooler: 120

intake piping before intercool: 150

intake piping after intercool: 130

intake manifold: 140

exhaust manifold: 500

turbo cold side: 150

turbo hot side: could not read temp gun only gose to 600

down pipe: 450

exhaust pipe befor cat: 250

before cat: 250

middle of cat: 300

after cat: 350

pipe after cat: 250

before muffle: 250

middle of muffler: 350

after muffler: 150

 

could i be having a cat problem that would cause it to stumble stall and not run when i punch it.

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Yes a clogged cat could also do what you describe, but I would think the temps of the exhaust after the cat would be lower if that were the case.

 

What kind of exhaust pressure do you have at the tail pipe? I know this is kind of subjective without using some sort of pressure gauge, but you should be able to tell if there's decent flow (pressure) at the tip vs a lack of, that could indicate a clogged cat or muffler.

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In this pic: attachment.php?attachmentid=7205&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1211591405 I see a black "hole" in the compressor housing, is that a blind hole (drilled but not all the way through) or is it all the way into the compressor housing, and causing a vacuum/boost leak?

 

If it is open all the way through like I suspect, then I would say plug that and go for another drive, since it is after the MAF, that will cause havok, with metering the air and susequntaly the fuel needed.

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the "Black hole" was fixed and still nothing.

 

could my maf be to close to the turbo? it's like 6 or so inches infront of the turbo

 

and the cat was not pluged up not even a black but it smelled like poo. the only reason i know that is that last night icut the cat at and replaced it th gap with a small section or pipe and a exhaust cut out.

 

with the pressure in the system there was enough to completely cap it with your handand tell there was pressure

 

and the really weird thing is that last night after we did the cut out was around 80ish. not as hot as its normally been like 100+. during the test drive we got rained on and the temp droped to about 75ish with around 30 mph winds. and after all the weather change it ran fine not a lick of trouble. to me that seems like my car it only likes the cold. if it dose it need to change cuz she is living in west tesxas now.

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no i jsut check it i do not have $85 on me right now to change it or i would.

 

is there away to make it go open-loop all the time?

 

dose any one know if there is a better tps then the stock 280zxt tps?

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just to let anyone know i got my car broke in to on the passager side window and the car was unlocked since the fact that i did not get a door key when bought it. so the only thing that they stole was my 5'' monster tack with shift light. so now my car is locked away till i can do my 280z swap. got to love stupid ppl.

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Butters,

Hey, really sorry about your car being treated with no respect.

I know what you mean.....Tape up the window of your ZX; garage her at night!! work on your 280z for a while and remember that this toooo will pass! From one TX to another!!!

jkh

 

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thats what they told me i called nissan.unless there looking at the wrong part witch it too common i have that same problem at work getting the wrong part.

 

 

 

 

 

 

i wish i could garger my car i live in an apartment and do not have any way to lock her up. unless i drive to a friends house like 10 miles away. witch, i'm not walking that far just to park my car. i love my car to death but damn, that is just not right so she can be safe.

 

so the time being i'm only going to work on her on the weekends and get my other 76 280z ready to the transplant. i'm not looking forward to jsut working on her on the weekends or transplanting the whole drive train. and all the harness. i'm going to try to transplant the whole zx harness fuse block and what not if i can with i know is going to be a task. but i'm dead set on screw trying to splice in to that 280z harness

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Guest znow white

hey try this take a water temp sensor off a 280zx (the one with a bosche fuel injector plug) or if your water temp sensor is like that on your zxt or 280z than un plug your head temp sensor . Take that water temp sensor and plug it under thermostat theres lots of openings in there. Plug the head temp sensor back if its not long enough make it longer evene if temporarily with small inserts and plug it in the head temp sensor plug from your efi harness

me too im having problems with my l28et its in a 240z it ran like crap when it was the zx and then i swapped motor i troubleshooted this car for 2 years it ran so bad im like screw this i REBUILT MY motor i(cause im restoring the complete car and for assurances in the future when i mod) im just breaking it in now and my first week of starting her up and adjusting it it ran amazingly and now the old symptoms are back im really weary of this stupid eccs and i have a feeling the problem rises with the head temp sensor. Now im not stressing about it cause im switching to z31 since its a better system and eventually i want to run nistune .....our problems are the exact same underpower feels like it hits the imaginary wall but your running a much better ecu / maf i got the eccs and afm . try disconnect the ecu plugs and in and out people have success with that Other than that i wish you good luck and update the post when you find your issue

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