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Know any wheel refurbishers in NorCal?


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Rudy, I would certainly get some recommendations from some of the car clubs around (Porsche, Ferrari, etc) and also from some high end auto restorers as well. It's like choosing a bodyshop in my opinion, you need to get some references if you just have no idea. See what they can do to damaged rims before putting down your money and giving them the Etoiles.

 

Davy

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I actually think I am going to disassemble them myself with Gollum and then polish them myself as well. As for who does the clear coat, I will probably take it to a shop since me rattle canning clear on may not come out the way I would like it. Worse comes to worse I can always sand them again and start over.

 

Anyone see a potentially terrible idea here? I would rather not permanently or really temporarily ruin the wheels.

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You'll have to successfully remove all of the clearcoat (if there is any on those rims) and then polish them up---there is a machine polish on them, looking like little ridges, no? I wish you luck because it makes the job that much harder than a smooth surface. After looking at the work you have already done on your car, you probably have the determination to see it through, come hell or high water. I would certainly clear coat the wheel after you polish, but have you thought about a clear powdercoat? A wheel refinisher is certainly the right place to ask about the process (then do the cheap thing like I do and go elsewhere for the same thing once I'm convinced I can get similar results).

 

Davy

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Hehe. Thank you for the insight. As to the machine surface, actually is is smooth! No ridges EXCEPT on the center. The centers are perfectly fine though, it is only the rims themselves that need the clear coat and polish. The reason I feel it may be better to do it myself is a combination of them wanting $130/wheel to do it and that I feel I could learn something and probably do it for $130 total.

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Have you considered using Zoop Seal. I have used it on all my polished parts and I am happy so far. It is a ceramic coating that states it is good for three years minumum. It is kind of spendy but I have read some of your posts and you have mentioned that you have nice wheels, probally worth it. You can find them on line and the lowest price I have found is at Summet.

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Refinishing wheels…is hard, dirty work, there is no way to slice it, other than embrace it! LOL!

 

Prep: The hardest part is the prep and is the most important part. So what is involved with that:

Tools: A good quality air driven die grinder

About $20 worth of fine, medium and coarse pads for the die grinder (from Harbor Freight tools)

At minimum a 20gallon, 3hp air compressor (the bigger the better here, a full height 30+ gallon with 5hp would be better suited)

 

All factory coating has to be stripped off!! Depending on the wheel you are dealing with and the existing coating (for example clear coat, paint etc), you could start with a chemical paint stripper.

 

Start using the coarse pads and then removing all the casting marks from the wheels were cast and all the scratches and imperfections that occurs over time. Then move onto the medium pad and then the fine. Its analogous to sanding a car before painting working from 80 grit right to 600 grit.

 

Polishing:

Tools: A good quality hand grinder 4.5†with a minimum 10amp and 10,000 rpm motor rating

Two clay compounds (bought as bricks). One to remove the scratches caused during the prep stage and then the final clay compound to actually give the mirror finish. You need a 10inch buffing pad for each clay brick (on other words two). And then you will need some acetone and a microfiber cloth for the final wipe and detail.

 

Slow’N’Rusty Disclaimer: You also need a good 3M breathing mask, rubber gloves, an eye protection, this stuff will GIVE you cancer, as it is air borne aluminum dust mixed with clay, do not put your health at risk! For $10 save your ass please. Also be very careful with the angle grinder, you will TAKE off your finger or severely injure yourself if you are not comfortable running at 10,000rpm and once you hit an edge, it will go away on you and mess you up, depending on your stand.

 

Use your 10†cotton pad on the grinder work the heck out of the wheel making sure all the imperfections and scratches are gone, such that the wheel is starting to have a mirror finish and perfectly smooth and flat on the particular surface. This takes a lot of time and repetitive and is the crappy part of the job.

Finish the job with the final polishing clay brick and its own 10†cotton pad and then wipe down the wheel with Acetone and a microfiber cloth.

 

Time: typically 1.2-2hours per wheel. Cost about $30 (materials) for all 4 wheels.

 

If you need pics…I got a bunch of those too!

 

Regards - Yasin

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