Scottie-GNZ Posted November 2, 2000 Share Posted November 2, 2000 Do not remember if I have ever shown these, but here are some shots of my CV adaptor that I use with 280ZX stub axles. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted November 2, 2000 Share Posted November 2, 2000 Cool, I remember seeing those a while ago. Scottie, did you through bolt the CV shaft to the modified companion flange, or is that big hunk of steel threaded? Seems like there is no room to through bolt and you'd have to thread into it. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@home.com">pparaska@home.com - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted November 2, 2000 Author Share Posted November 2, 2000 It is just threaded and I use loctite. With the car in the air, I decided to pull out the rear suspension again to install some different springs. Took me less than 2 hours to completely remove both sides, swap the springs and put everything back together. A lot of that time was spent removing/installing the CVs. Believe me, those suckers are not going anywhere. One thing that helps is the indent in the adaptor to prevent any side movement by the CV. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYRON Posted November 2, 2000 Share Posted November 2, 2000 SCOTTIE, The assembled unit that you show is for the wheel side right? You are running the r200, with cv's out of a early 80's turbo (i think).. what does the diff side adapter look like? Is it possible to take the cv axle and the splinned output shaft out of the diff of the donor car and just install them into the project car, then weld the wheel side (with the spacer) onto flange? I dont know if i worded that right... Myron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted November 2, 2000 Author Share Posted November 2, 2000 Here is a list of the components I use to build the system: - R-200 diff - 280ZXT CVs - 280Z stub axles and companion flange - Adaptor disc. The disc is machined with an indent to have the wheel side of the CV to fit in it to prevent side movement. It also has 6 holes threaded for the CV to be bolted up to it. The other side of the disc is then precisely welded to the companion flange making sure it is true. Installation The disc/flange is installed on the stub axle and the disc has the appropriate sized hole in the middle for the big axle nut. The 280ZXT CV slips into the R-200 and the wheel side of the CV is put in the indent of the adaptor. Bolt it all up with Loctite on the bolts. There is no adaptor needed on the diff side. The CV pairs are not equal length so care must be taken which goes where. The drivers side CV goes on with no problem. The passenger is a little tougher but can be done w/o removing the control arm. I find it easier to just remove the 2 bolts from the front of the control to give that extra fraction needed to slip it in place. The disc is beefy enough so it could be machined thinner. I am certain there are better ways of doing this and I strongly advise "hackers" to not build their own. The disc was CNC-machined and the fitment and welding done by a reputable machinist. The car is in the air and if anyone is interested in seeing what it looks like with everything in place, let me know. Also, I was comtemplating coilovers for the rear just so I could get clearance for taller and bigger tires. While I had the rear suspension out to fit the CVs, I went ahead and did the JTR spring perch mod with the 280ZX 2+2 springs. I can now fit any diameter tire, and I am talking about monster 28" diameter, on a what I would guess looks like close to a 6" backspacing. Again, if there is any interest, let me know and I will shoot photos. This is by no means an endorsement for not getting coilovers. I had a purpose and this is going to suit me well. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 3, 2000 Share Posted November 3, 2000 So Scottie, can you have another pair made? Does the flange come off after you remove the nut? Or do you need a slide hammer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted November 3, 2000 Author Share Posted November 3, 2000 BillyZ, the companion flange and adaptor disc are one unit and is installed/removed no differently that you would for the companion flange by itself. No slide hammers. How hard it is to install/remove depends on smoothly it slides on the stub axle splines. As for duplicating it, if I had a supply of companion flanges, I MIGHT be able to convince the machinist (the same guy I bought my GN drivetrain from and also a Z fanatic) to make some. He might not want to do it. Since the disc is CNC-machined, he probably still has it in the computer. However, he and I would have a big concern about being held liable if the fabrication was not properly completed. I hope folks can understand that. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 3, 2000 Share Posted November 3, 2000 Originally posted by Scottie-GNZ:BillyZ, Scottie I echoe Owen's comments on liability as well and would also be interested. I have access to CNC stuff here... HAAS equipment. Equipment uses g and m code programing. If that's what your machinist used; what are the chances of getting a copy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted November 4, 2000 Share Posted November 4, 2000 I for one understand your concerns about liability. But I will sign something stating I won't hold you liable the same way I won't blame others for the information they supplied on T-56 swaps, subframe connectors, brake upgrades, etc. If you ever get down to the pricing issues, please tell me how much they will be. Thanks, Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 5, 2000 Share Posted November 5, 2000 I would not hold you liable as well and am very interested in getting rid of the u-joints. I talked to a couple of machinest and they don't want to deal with it. See what you can do, Billy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest iamjackal Posted November 24, 2000 Share Posted November 24, 2000 I have a friend at work who has a complete machineshop in his garage.Anyway on the weekends Im going to start to apprenticing with him and he said that if I wanted I could make some on his machines if the profit wause worth the expense and time.So what do you guys think would be a good price for these and would there be any interest in them if I could make some available for sale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted November 24, 2000 Share Posted November 24, 2000 i would buy a pair if they are a bolt on... i think if the price is relatively good and the quality is good you could sell 10-15 pairs. ------------------ Mike mike@fonebooth.com http://www.fonebooth.com/brakes.html raceparts and brake upgrades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted July 17, 2001 Share Posted July 17, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Scottie-GNZ: It is just threaded and I use loctite. How thick is this adaptor? Could it not be tapped for halfshaft bolts and the opposing CV bolts? or not enough depth/thickness to accomodate all bolt patterns without interference? I'm not sure all 'new' buyers know these do require precision welding. Or perhaps a two piece bolt on adaptor? Seems it's popular enough to warrant a look-see at that possibility. Didn't mean to swap the threads but thought some might want to read the 'extra' info you posted above Scottie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted July 17, 2001 Share Posted July 17, 2001 Ross, there's interference (or very close to interference in the two patterns. This is why Scottie went to the welded setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted July 18, 2001 Share Posted July 18, 2001 Pete: I like what Jim did for ease of install for a shadetree mechanic. I could take a look at getting a quote from the CNC shop on the 2 pc setup if there's an interest. Even if they can't be done for ~150 OR less (but I think they can be just offhand) its worth something to myself and likely others to not have to buck up for the welding and/or remove their flanges. It is a busy drawing but doesn't look v. involved for CNC. PS rear disk bracket prototype should be done soon. Mike and I finalized some design details last weekend I should update that thread tonight if I get time...11-3/8's rotors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted July 18, 2001 Share Posted July 18, 2001 quote: Originally posted by pparaska: Ross, there's interference (or very close to interference in the two patterns. This is why Scottie went to the welded setup. I'm sure it's 'close', I'll have to sketch it up when I have a chance if noone else has a sketch handy. Nothing wrong with Scotties setup at all. But I prefer to avoid welding efforts if possible and know of a few wanting a bolt on scenario. I'm getting used to 'close' interferences and enjoy toying with solutions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted July 18, 2001 Share Posted July 18, 2001 For an idea of how close the bolt patterns are, look at the two piece bolt-on adapter that Jim Biondo designed (on my Z now): The 4 large holes in the adapter are holes there to clear the bolt heads of the companion flange to flat plate outer adapter shown here: The rest of the info for this swap is at: http://members.home.net/pparaska/280ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm if anyone is interested. [ July 17, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted July 18, 2001 Share Posted July 18, 2001 I think I like the bolt on method better myself, but I've had a really hard time finding people that are competant to work on my car. (in my opinion, of course) After hearing the fiasco Mikelly went through I'd be leary of letting anyone but me weld it, and I don't have a welder that I feel is good enough for something that heavy, so... Bolt on sounds good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted July 18, 2001 Share Posted July 18, 2001 Oops, my bad. I thought it was you. Ah well, I'd still prefer bolt ons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted July 18, 2001 Share Posted July 18, 2001 The part that would be the most useful would be a complete stub axle flange. One just like the ZXt flange, except with the 27 splines instead of 25. I suppose the machining of splines would add too much to the overall cost?? I remain skeptical of the advantages of the 280 stubs over the 240 stubs. Are those 2 extra spines really worth all this hassle? I got the stock ZXt flanges with my CV axles and they slipped right on. The only headache was the seal, but that wasn't too bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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