tclhenstra Posted June 11, 2008 Author Share Posted June 11, 2008 ok well like i said prior. it's pretty rough and it's pretty recent. so i may just take a swing at the o2 i figured the ecu's on the zxt's were a little diff. but i really am not sure with these cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver280zx Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 Why do you doubt me? Tell you what, I'll put my 10 years of ZX experience that the temp and the thermotime switch are two different sensors, one operating the temp gauge and the other the cold start valve. The ECU receives it's temp signal from the cylinder head temp sensor on the passengers side of the engine. The only way this is not true is if you aren't driving a ZX. The Z (S30) uses a two wire temp sender in the thermostat housing for the ECU temp and a single wire for the gauge. Im not doubting your 10 years of experience, but ive been working on my s130 for 9 years, and mine was a temp sensor. You say its not possible for that to have been what it was, if I drive a zx, well i Happen to drive a January 79 model which is carried over from the 78 half year, so dont tell someone they dont know what they are talking about if you've never worked on their car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 Im not doubting your 10 years of experience, but ive been working on my s130 for 9 years, and mine was a temp sensor. You say its not possible for that to have been what it was, if I drive a zx, well i Happen to drive a January 79 model which is carried over from the 78 half year, so dont tell someone they dont know what they are talking about if you've never worked on their car. Ok now that's a bit of an extenuating circumstance. An early 79 has quite a bit of things different from even an 80 model when it comes to the electronics and EFI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 ok well like i said prior. it's pretty rough and it's pretty recent. so i may just take a swing at the o2 i figured the ecu's on the zxt's were a little diff. but i really am not sure with these cars. Yeah the ECUs on the ZXTs are completely different. They don't even use the same connector as the NA ECU. The connector to the head temp sensor is on a pig tail connected to the main harness through the same bullet style connectors as everything else. You may want to check those out and make sure they're clean and you're getting good continuity through it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tclhenstra Posted June 12, 2008 Author Share Posted June 12, 2008 so are they bullets from the cylinder sensor? is that what you're saying? hmm if so i didnt notice them. lol i'll take a look before work tomorrow. the new plugs should bide my time for a little while, but i really dont want to run it like this. thanks nav. i do appreciate that. and silver, man i totally get what ur saying. i could have sworn by that one wire sensor. but who friggen knows. lol but yeah i'm going to spend my next day off gutting all the sensors and connectors for scum and grime. hopefully i get what i want out of her. thumbs up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver280zx Posted June 12, 2008 Share Posted June 12, 2008 Ya, sorry man, i didnt know you had a turbo, i know nothing about the turbo cars. Good luck with it man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tclhenstra Posted June 12, 2008 Author Share Posted June 12, 2008 lol its cool man. a lot of this came in handy either way. kind of gave me a train of thought, so to speak. still have got to work on her but i at least have an idea now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuoWing Posted June 12, 2008 Share Posted June 12, 2008 Not too sound like a smart ass, but right off the bat I knew it was a late model ZX. He said digital dash , and I think the digital dash showed up for the 83' models, maybe the late 82's. Anyway do not rule out the CHTS just because it was changed. This was a horrible issue on my ZXT. The previous owner was having all kinds of problems, he changed the CHTS and it still was doing the same problem. Turned out the new CHTS was bad. I eventually swapped it over for a CHTS that I pulled from my old 2+2 which was running perfectly. Oddly enough that one was on it's way out. Finally I got a brand new CHTS from motorsport, it was still in the Nissan packaging. With all 3 sensors sitting on a bench in the open air. They all read differently. The new Nissan sensor read quite a bit different from the other 2. This was what finally fixed my problem. Is your fuel pressure regulator functioning? Depending on how it fails it can richen up your mixture as well. Also check your air regulator, if that thing doesn't work your car will be getting a lot less air on startup. You have the AAC which helps to compensate, but you still need the air regulator for that extra air. Finally a dead O2 will really leave you hanging. With no O2 or a dead O2 my car was really sluggish and really had no go under 2000-something RPM. Once it got above that certain RPM everything was great, but below that was torture. Pulling out into traffic was terrifying as the car felt so slow to respond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tclhenstra Posted June 12, 2008 Author Share Posted June 12, 2008 absolutely duo. yeah i'm getting another CHTS just to be safe. i've had enough water temp issues with this car, i dont doubt that that one probably got burnt out. also plan on changing the o2 along with all that. i figured it's been in there long enough and it's about time. also as far as the fuel pressure regulator, i'm planning on getting a pallnet fuel rail and was going to change it then, so if it IS bad hopefully it'll last another few weeks. *shrugs shoulders* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tclhenstra Posted June 14, 2008 Author Share Posted June 14, 2008 hey well i sprayed around the intake and injectors. the car bogged down really fast. i'm sure theres a leak in there. the injectors WERE removed at one point i think it could be leaking by either the injectors or the intake manifold gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuoWing Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 I've never really heard of many people having their intake manifold gasket leak, just the exhaust side of the gasket. Although I guarantee it happens. Try using the little attachment for the can, that little straw thing to help direct the spray so you can get it right around the injectors to help narrow the issue down. If the injectors were replaced and the o-rings weren't you may have leaking o-rings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tclhenstra Posted June 17, 2008 Author Share Posted June 17, 2008 right. that's exactly what i was planning on doing i was going to use ether instaed of carb cleaner. should be a little more "reactive" idk. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tclhenstra Posted June 17, 2008 Author Share Posted June 17, 2008 ok guys heres the situation at hand. i checked the oil dipstick today while i was putting some gas in her and i noticed it was thin. i smelled it and i wreaked of gas. i know that if i'm rich the residual gas can dilute oil in the combustion chamber and cause excessive ring wear i'm not sure if it is the injectors or not aside from the ether test whats another good test? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDusel Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 A good test: Pull all the spark plugs and see if some are clean and some are black. All plugs black indicates that the injectors are probably OK and something is making the FI run rich. For just a couple of black plugs you can check the injectors for leaks. Pick up a new set of injector o-rings and seals (Pallnet has them), remove the injectors and rail as one piece, put some small clear cups under the injectors, remove the coil wire and crank the engine. Look for each injector giving a nice clean spray and see if any drip after you stop cranking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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