Project 240Z Turbo ITB Install

[S30TRBO]

Roger that, give me a buzz when you can.

[S30TRBO]

Ok it’s really close, all I have left is to install: 3 gauges, wideband o2, radiator, oil cooler lines. I bought a gas can full of premium and 2 gallons of coolant.

 

I had to email SDS and ask about hooking up the wideband. My wideband has one white wire for a wideband linear output and a gray for a narrowband out. I was stuck didn't want to fry anything, they said use the gray. BTW I have a PLX M300.

 

 

 

I bought a relay for my keyed +12v since SDS recommends using a relay for single or multiple keyed +12v source into a fused distribution (distro) block. I had a Streetwires FBXM68 mini fused distro block like the below picture.

 

I originally have a single inline fused 20 amp +12v wire source going into a regular distro block then I hooked up my accessories into that. I think the relayed option will work out much better; I'm going to put 30amp mini fuses in it and carry spares.

 

(from left to right) +12v constant distro block, inline fuse (it goes from starter to inline fuse to distro block), ground distro block, keyed +12v distro block (getting swapped out for Streetwires fused distro block), fuel pump relay, fan relay.

This is just a mock for now, I know my kick panel is beat up but that will transfer when I build an enclosure for my 4" kick panel speakers.

 

 

 

After finding a few pin holes where the cowl drain is then discovering an even bigger rust hole beside the drain after removing the cowl, I decided to mount the SDS behind the glove box. I was really pissed the only spot of rust on my Z!!!

 

[S30TRBO]

Well the SDS is wired and I started on the gauges I have them all wired up. Let me tell you I need to have umpa lumpa hands to hook up the back brackets in the triple gauge pod verses my clubs for hands. Even with 60mm gauges I am struggling. I have one hooked up on the left and the one on the right is being a PITA!!! The one in the middle I have no idea how I'm going to secure that one, does anyone have any ideas??

 

I got my answer from SDS concerning the wideband o2 and am in the process of wiring that up. It's the gray wire from the SDS to the gray wire of the wideband.

 

I also have the MSD tach adapter to wire up. I am verifying the connection of the SDS coil packs to the tach adapter with SDS right now.

 

Does anyone know where the best place to tap the 240Z tach signal from? I was told to run a wire back from the + coil in the engine bay back into the interior and do it that way instead of tapping into the harness. Any other ideas?

[Dtsnlvrs]

Joe,

As I said before, you can get the signal wire from the engine bay and just follow it back, or you can splice into the harness at the tach. On the back of the tach is a solid white wire that goes thru an inductive loop. That is the wire that "fed" the stock coil. You can splice into that and hook it up to the tach adapter, it is a keyed hot. Just make sure it is the only thing you have hooked up to it or you will screw up the inductive signal in it will lead to an erronious tach signal.

[S30TRBO]

Thanks Buck

[240hoke]

I did a SDS install a few months ago in a friends car and just went through some of the things you did. I found that it was convenient to trace the tach signal wire to the Dash connector, I then depinned the harness side and slide the sds single into it with a new spade. This gave a clean install and left all the wiring like stock. He however did not have the original engine harness, if he had you could do as mentioned and just cut the factory signal wire to length.

 

I HIGHLY suggest just removing the dash to do the wiring job. It only take an hour or so and allows a MUCH MUCH cleaner install. You can easily get to the back of the gauges and run all the wires in with the factory loom. It also makes mounting and running the rest of the EMS wiring through the firewall much easier. IMO if you install any aftermarket wiring without the dash removed you can get a rats nest really really quick and it will be aggravating if the wires and electronics get in the way and you cant remove the dash.

 

I dont mean to thread jack but here are a few pictures of the Fuse box setup and wiring that I did. It uses key switched power from the dash to flip a relay and pull power from the battery. Its all easy to remove with connectors and does not interfere with factory wiring. We used a PLC wideband gauge and ran the output directly to the SDS, everything worked like a charm (on the wiring side anyway).

 

(pay no attention to the red hose covers I personally removed them before his car left the garage!!)

 

 

Ecu Mounting, nutserts used on drivers kick panel with all wires going though factory hole in firewall. Power wires meet the harness with a connector coming through a factory hole in the passenger side:

[240hoke]

 

I would seriously consider ditching every single crimped on connector like this in your wiring. They will cause pain at some point or another, whether they work loose will driving or rip off the next time you replace the relay. Ignore me if this is just your mocked I just had to point it out.

 

I highly recommend these mounting blocks (same as ones on my install on the previous post):

http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...Y%20CONNECTOR/

You can mount them securely to the car and then easily remove and reinstall the relay with no issue. They can stack to make block which Keeps the wiring clean and reliable. You can also get a good soldered connector on the spades.

[S30TRBO]

Hells Yeah!! Only down to the MSD Tach Adapter, dress in the wiring and some other little misc things.

 

Gauges are done, and boy do I have scars on my knuckles to prove it. Can you see the joy and pain in my face in this first pic.

 

 

 

 

 

Swapped out the FPR mechanical gauge and decided with some persuasion from Buck to try the Blitz pressure sensor to see if it fit and it does. I wasn’t thrilled in rigging up a T to go with the stock oil pressure switch and now I don’t. Now I won't have to leave the cockpit everything will be in view and in reach.

 

[S30TRBO]

Damn Austin, this is why I asked you to come up and give me a hand.

 

I just want to get it running hence the mock-up; I do plan on getting those blocks. I am keeping the wiring as neat as possible. I have some slack so everything is in the factory loom. When it gets painted upon reassembly it will be real pretty. I wish I had your skills it’s just me, myself and I.

Thanks for jacking

[S30TRBO]

So I emailed them yesterday to ask if a MSD tach adapter is required for hookup to make my stock "current triggered" 240Z tach work? If so would the tach signal wire from the coil packs connect to the MSD tach adapter (white wire) and the signal from the + side of my coil go to the red wire.

 

If it truly is a current triggered tach' date=' you may not need any tach adapter. Just try to power the coil pack from the same wire that powered the stock ignition coil. Typically the coil + current passes thru the tachometer, so the tach senses current flow thru the ignition. I know the british smith's tachs work this way, they have two thick wire going into the tach unit obviously need to be thick for the higher current flow. If you have any wiring diagrams you and you can send them to me I could help more. alldatadiy.com has diagrams for most cars.

The 8920 is meant for tachs that need a higher voltage to trigger, this is different than current triggered. If above does not work then you could try an 8920 maybe. 8910 is another option, its a dummy coil but you have to keep all ignition wired up like stock, then your tach senses the current thru the dummy coil(which has no spark output). [/quote']

 

So I replied with a wiring diagram and they replied last night.

 

yep' date=' its current triggered. The curly loop in the middle of the tach is the current loop and coil current passes through it.

[b']Use the BW wire that went to stock coil and connect it to the red power wire on the SDS coil pack.[/b] You will need to remove the resistor and short the two wires together otherwise you will get really weak spark out of the coil pack. Notice that the resistor get shorted when key is in crank mode. Don't use the 8920 its meant for voltage trig tachs. It won't help you.

 

Hopefully it will work for you if not then other option is to locate a 260 tach. Actually SDS coil packs have the equivalent of an 8920 built into them, output is the 20 gauge green wire, but with the 240 tach you won't connect our green wire just cover it up with tape. If you are forced into a 260 tach then you would connect the SDS coil pack green tach wire to the 260 tachs input wire (which would have connected to the coil minus terminal originally).

 

SDS coil packs can output either 12volt or 200V selectable with a jumper inside. However coil pack prior to mid 2003 are 200 volt output only. HI volts are needed on many import car tachs.

 

Well, so I am more confused. Use the tach adapter, don't use the tach adapter, tap the tach signal behind the tach, now use the + side from the coil and take that to the power wire (I know its the same as tapping from behind the tach, just the other end), don't use the signal wire from the SDS coil pack ahhhhhh. I am not discrediting what anyone is saying I just want to know what is correct. Now we have all sides of the story on the table.

 

Austin when you had the SDS did you use the stock tach, I don't remember? What are your thoughts? I really don't want to screw this up! Also by the looks of your post with the wiring laid on the fender it looks like your friends Z is a 280Z? Did he use a stock tach or after market, coilpacks, if so how did you do hook his up?

 

Thanks everyone,

[Dtsnlvrs]

He is either full of ♥♥♥♥, or does not know what he is talking about, or both. The MSD 8920 is used for current / magnetic triggered tachs. Even the MSD folks get confused as to which tach adapter to use. The SDS has the equivalent of a 9810 in it, it is capablt of low volt or hight volt trigger signals. You need to use the 8920 and install it as we have discussed earlier.

[240hoke]

Hurm, I can say that I have used the SDS output with a factory 1974 260z tach and a 1976 280z tach. The 280z in the above install had the factory tach and it worked perfect.

 

Id love to come up and help, I dont think im allowed to travel farther north though at this time of the year. I might freeze.

[S30TRBO]

Hurm, I can say that I have used the SDS output with a factory 1974 260z tach and a 1976 280z tach. The 280z in the above install had the factory tach and it worked perfect.

 

Id love to come up and help, I dont think im allowed to travel farther north though at this time of the year. I might freeze.

 

How did you hook up the 280Z tach? Did you use a tach adapter?

 

Of the two methods discussed what say you?

 

I have a nice kerosene heater that keeps it a brisk 75 degrees.

[Dtsnlvrs]

Hurm, I can say that I have used the SDS output with a factory 1974 260z tach and a 1976 280z tach. The 280z in the above install had the factory tach and it worked perfect.

 

Id love to come up and help, I dont think im allowed to travel farther north though at this time of the year. I might freeze.

 

And that would be fine for a stock 260 or 280 tach...thay are triggered by the square wave on the negative side of the coil. The 240 is not triggered this way, it is like an old british car in that it has an inductive loop that FEEDS the positive side of the coil and "reads" the pulses of the draw of the coil, that is why MSD made the 8920, at one point it was marketed toward the british racing crowd.

[S30TRBO]

Everything is almost done. All that is left is the dreaded tach adapter, Zs-ondabrain parking light harness and some misc things.

 

Tonight I worked on dressing in the main wiring under the dash and finished installing the wideband. I replaced the distro block with the fused distro block.

 

almost done from the left: +12 constant hot distro, grounding block, +12 constant inline fuse, (above) relay for +12 key switch, +12 keyed distro block *new*, fuel pump relay, electric fan relay.

[Dtsnlvrs]

Good job Joe, now get that darn tach adapter wired in and you will be in business. BTW my suggestion is to leave the stock wiring intact and "trace" the tach wire back from the original location. The SDS guy was right in keeping the integrity of the factory load on the inductive loop. Call me if you want a better explanation.

[240hoke]

I think i would swap tach before I bought a tach adapter, since tach are about 5 bucks and easy to change out. That way you wont have to worry about it later and its one less electronic thing you have to put on your car.

[S30TRBO]

I think i would swap tach before I bought a tach adapter, since tach are about 5 bucks and easy to change out. That way you wont have to worry about it later and its one less electronic thing you have to put on your car.

 

When you had this SDS in your 240Z did you have the stock 240Z tach or aftermarket?

 

I have had this tach adapter for a couple of years....

[Sparks280zt]

When you had this SDS in your 240Z did you have the stock 240Z tach or aftermarket?

 

I have had this tach adapter for a couple of years....

 

Aftermarket in his 240z.

[S30TRBO]

Thanks!