Dan Juday Posted September 12, 2001 Share Posted September 12, 2001 I thought my only problem is that it needed to be bled. What I got: sbc, T5. I put it together just like it says in the JTR manual. Got the Tilton MC, 3/4". I was so sure I had air in there I couldn't get out that I finally disassembled and reassembled the slave while submerged in a bucket of DOT 3 while pumping more through the MC. My hands will never be the same. And this is not easy from under the car (wife helped). I know I have all the air out now. But: with 3/4" stroke on the MC, full pedal travel, I get about 3/8" travel at the slave. Clutch will not disengage. All parts are brand spankin' new. Help, please. Pete, Mike, anybody? I want to get this part working before the exhaust is installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted September 12, 2001 Share Posted September 12, 2001 Time to crack open the geometry book. Hydraulics is moving a constant volume of liquid. Volume of a cylinder.....anyone?....Bueller? V = pi x r^2 x h Make sure the Master cyl pushrod is making the most of it's stroke (if the rod is too long it is starting at the bottom). You probably can't increase it. In order to increase the slave cyl stoke, you might need a larger radius master cyl. or a smaller radius(r in formula) slave cyl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted September 12, 2001 Share Posted September 12, 2001 3/4" is TOO small -- you need 7/8"... that little difference makes a BIG difference in travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted September 13, 2001 Author Share Posted September 13, 2001 Mike, just for clarity. Are you saying the MC BORE is too small, and I need a bigger MC? Or, are you saying I need more stoke on the MC I have? Must be the first, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted September 13, 2001 Share Posted September 13, 2001 Yes. 3/4" MC bore is too small for use on a GM fork with the Datsun slave cylinder. 7/8" MC bore usually works good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Thurem Posted September 13, 2001 Share Posted September 13, 2001 Hey Pete I'm still contemplating a cable clutch, so while you're underneath your car. Could you do me a favor and measure the distance the clutchfork needs to travel to disengage clutch, this would be the same distance the slavecyl. piston travels.. Thanks Thure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted September 13, 2001 Share Posted September 13, 2001 Thurem - I have a hydraulic throw out bearing - no fork. Maybe Len or somebody else that used a Chevy bellhousing/clutch/fork could measure this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted September 13, 2001 Author Share Posted September 13, 2001 Sorry Pete, I'm using the the plastic Camaro slave modififed per JTR. Does that still apply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted September 13, 2001 Share Posted September 13, 2001 Except the Camaro / Vette / Datsun / JTR slave cyl "pushes" and a cable "pulls" The clutch arm travel distance is probably the same. I guess it depends on the position of the fulcrum inside the bellhousing, distance from the crank centerline....(yikes more geometry. My Brain hurts!) That hydraulic T/O bearing is sounding better all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73BOTIZ Posted September 13, 2001 Share Posted September 13, 2001 Dan, I am using a 7/8 bore "short" clutch m/c with my t-5/camaro slave cyl. and it works fine.Check your rod adjustment to make sure you are getting full travel. Mike D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted September 13, 2001 Share Posted September 13, 2001 Dan, all i can tell you is that on chucks car it had a 3/4" master - with T5 and GM slave/fork combo. it barely worked that way. i gave him a 7/8" master to try and all the problems went away when he changed it. so the smaller master just doesnt allow full travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted September 13, 2001 Share Posted September 13, 2001 You'd have to look at the geometry of the clutch hat (how much compression needed to disengage the clutch), fork arm, and the slave cyl. diameter between the T-56 and the typical Muncie/T-10/T-5 clutch fork/slave setups to know if the 3/4" were enough. For the T-5 clutch/slave/fork, as noted above, with the 3/4" MC, it doesn't have enough fork movement to do the job. The JTR manual goes over this, and suggests a 7/8" and/or 1" MC to work with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted September 14, 2001 Author Share Posted September 14, 2001 Thanks Mike D. & Mike G. I'll order an 7/8 in the morning. Guess the muffler man will have to wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 I'm using a 3/4" Howe with a T56, seems to work ok *shrug*. I am using a replacement type clutch and it engages fully. I havnt driven one with a 7/8" bore master though. I do think the extra 1/8th 'might' put additional stress on the 'rigged' fitting into the plastic slave trick, I mean if you bottomed out the slave lets say. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 Rigged? I guess that's my thoughts on screwing into the plastic after having mine shot out like a bullet. I'm glad I figured out an alternative, I just wasn't comfortable with the threaded setup. I HAVE actually bottomed out my clutch with the new setup. It didn't hit the bottom of the slave but the clutch pushed away too far and I hear some "interesting" noises as the pedal hit the bottom of it's travel. I've backed the rod off some after that and the pedal isn't quite so high now. Hrm, I DID hav some problems with the clutch rod jamming a one point. This was with the threadedJB Welded screwed in fitting. When it jammed I put a pretty decent amount of pressure on the pedal trying to figure it out - it held but leaked just a bit. Considering the pressure I'd say it did petty good. Perhaps those screwing the fiting in should consider JBWeld to help seal and strengthen it? I believe I'm using the 7/8ths MC BTW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted September 22, 2001 Author Share Posted September 22, 2001 Hey guys, Just had to tell ya'll. Got the 7/8 master installed today and it worked, just like you said! I bolted in a seat and drove it for the very first time. Uh, just up and down the driveway and back into the garage . Still no exhaust system on it. Boy, is that loud. Still, I think I did it about six times. The kids rode too. Scared them to death. Goes in Monday for pipes, on a trailer. But I'm going to drive it home! Who needs doors, fenders, a registration? Thanks again to the two Mikes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted September 23, 2001 Share Posted September 23, 2001 Why use the plastic slave when an alum replacement is avail? The only way you could buy one here anyway was as a set with the camaro mc. JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Locutus Posted September 23, 2001 Share Posted September 23, 2001 Do they make a replacement slave for a T-56. That and a master cylinder are all I a missing to complete my tranny setup. Well I need a few bolts to but the neighbor sells bolts for a living so I will bet some grade 8 ones off of her The slave and master setup has plauged just about everyone here. I am in the process still of collection parts and those are 2 that I have hunted for. I know where to get a master but the slave is no where to be found except from Chevy and I hate to bend over and take it from them. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted September 23, 2001 Author Share Posted September 23, 2001 Ya John, where is this mysterious aluminum slave? T5 and T56 owners want to know. Give us part#'s, phone#'s, URL's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 23, 2001 Share Posted September 23, 2001 I got a replacement slave - sans hose and MC for about $50 from a local parts place. It's a Wagner part and I used the GM braided hose on it - it's plastic. The only thing about buying it seperate is that you get no hose. IF you can get th ehose and follow my directions I'd suggest NOT using the JTR method. IF you canNOT get the GM hose then by all means use the JTR method but make sure the hole isn't big and consider JBWeld or another epoxy in there when you screw in the fitting to help secure it. The plastic slave will work but I wouldn't mind knowing about an aluminum one too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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