drwharton85 Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 I have been researhing this engine for a while and I am in love with it:-). It is one of my main engine choices for my 240z. What i would like to know is that these engines with out tranny's are costing any where from $3600.00-$7000.00 for factory engines. Would it make more since to buy a N1 block and just build an nearly indestructable engine that to take the chances with a used engine? Or would the build up take you way past average used price? Also i read somewhere here that the N1 block is not cast iron but did not say what or how it is made does some one know this? Other than stronger block, water passages, and crank fix what are some of the differences between the blocks? And thanks again for everyones help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 from what i understand, the N1 block is most likely a cleaner or purer casting than a regular cast iron block, and it definitely has more internal webbing or thicker main skirts. Andy (Boozt3d) has proved that the standard block and head can handle 680rwhp. probably not for long, but... what are your goals? N1 block = $1500 private sale (not from nissan!) R33 Crank = $300 - $500 Bearings = $150 - 350 Rod and Piston combo = $1200 - 2400 Engine head = $800 - 1200 Valvetrain + cams/gears = $2000 - 3000 Sensors = $600 - 1000 oil + water pump = $450 - 1800 intake? exhaust? turbo? if you buy an N1 block, you'll need an RB26 to make it usable for you anyway. The price of the engine is less than the sum of all it's parts. BTW, the ecu and running gear has not included in that either. alternator? ps pump? A/C if u want? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z24O Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 i decided to go RB30 block/RB26 head due to the number of RB26 blocks that i personally know of that have had problems,and they weren't even high performance engines...porous bores,cracked blocks,bearing problems,castings cracking. i always worry when a manufacturer brings out something as integral as an engine block and then offers a factory high performance option,after all weren't ALL gtr's a high performance cars,and secondly,why keep selling the original block in later models when it has been demonstrated they are not up to the task....why not just upgrade all models to the better design N1,after all they already have the casting molds and how much more can a couple of kilos and better metal cost at that stage of production(answer-a very small proportion of the asking price for the finished car) you very rarely hear of an rb30 block sh1tting itself and there are some very high horsepower ones running in australia,probably due to the fact they were from an earlier time when good metal was readily available and one block was used for every application,including commercial heavy duty offroad vehicles....they couldn't afford mass failures in a commercial or bulk passenger fleet,no-one would have bought another nissan car again,especially as they couldn't blame it on rev head abuse the above is purely based on my observations,thoughts and personal conspiracy theory i have several conspiracy theories but am reluctant to divulge them as you never know who is listening:lmao: oh and also went rb30 block as they are $50 instead of $500 to replace IF they do ever fail.....in Oz anyway:grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 N1 block is no longer available new from Nissan. 99% of the really big HP RB26's in Japan use the standard block. In the past, the only reason I bought N1 blocks was because they were the same price as the standard one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drwharton85 Posted August 2, 2008 Author Share Posted August 2, 2008 so these rb30 blocks are pretty easy to find? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loy Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 Only in Australia unfortunately... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 I have a very early R32 block that I used. I had heard that the early ones are the best to use, compared to the later. I chose to pull the early short oil drive crank out of it and replace it with a R33 long drive. Short of having the RRR race block, I think using a seasoned R32 block is the best option for me. With Carrillo's, JE's, ARP's, and a Jun oil pump, its pretty stout... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pirate87 Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 so these rb30 blocks are pretty easy to find? Sorry for the shameless plug, but I have a couple of RB30 blocks left. Pm me if you are interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fentin_fury Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 I have a very early R32 block that I used. I had heard that the early ones are the best to use, compared to the later. I chose to pull the early short oil drive crank out of it and replace it with a R33 long drive. Short of having the RRR race block, I think using a seasoned R32 block is the best option for me. With Carrillo's, JE's, ARP's, and a Jun oil pump, its pretty stout... I am in agreement here - only difference is some internals - CP pistons, Tomei rods, and oil pump Q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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