rb240nc Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 im starting to do a rb25 build. started looking around on net found carrilo rods only thing is that they are billet and buddy is telling me to run forged. i didnt know what everyone else is running billet or forged. any info would great thanks david Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 well how much power, how many rpm, and how much money do you want to spend to get there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rb240nc Posted August 15, 2008 Author Share Posted August 15, 2008 i wanna make 500-600hp. money i not really worried about. i was want enough power to drive around the street, and then go to the strip and make respectable passes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 well ground billet rods and forged rods are varying in price... really the name brand is what makes the difference. there are manley rods that go for 800 a set, and there are Eagle ESP rods that go for 520 a set. I think the spool rods from australia will be capable of running what you want at a respectable power level and budget. their rods are all made using the same machining and forging process and are proven to above-600 hp levels in all of the engines they've made them for. I would, and am putting my money on spool RB30 rods. Mainly because I've seen forged rods go for double the price of other forged rods, and I won't be making more than Spool has tested them too (keeping it real!). cheftrd on these forums mentioned 1 piece vs 2 piece forgings and their differences and qualities but I don't recall what was mentioned. It also had something to do with Carillo and HKS rods being similar or something. keep in mind that I have a friend who has repeatedly built V8 chevy's with Eagle rods, Scat rotating assemblies, and various other branded parts, and has not had a problem with them at 400+ hp. Most people go with forged because of availability, and they hold up to abuse fine from what I can tell. so far there have been no horror stories from any RB'ers here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z24O Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 budget option for RB25's are of course the RB26 rods but i agree,SPOOL rods FTW http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SPOOL-Nissan-Holden-VL-RB30-Forged-Steel-Conrods_W0QQitemZ230281878901QQihZ013QQcategoryZ130654QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Taylor Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 Whats wrong with the stock rods?? My car has been making 550+ rwhp for over 2 years on a completely stock motor. The previous stock motor made over 600 rwhp.....stock cast pistons were it's demise (ring land). Z240: Just curious but how are the rb26 rods any better than the rb25 rods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z24O Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 Whats wrong with the stock rods?? My car has been making 550+ rwhp for over 2 years on a completely stock motor. The previous stock motor made over 600 rwhp.....stock cast pistons were it's demise (ring land). Z240: Just curious but how are the rb26 rods any better than the rb25 rods? They are much thicker where the beam tapers into the big end and there is more material around the bolt holes. If you compare pics of the rb25 and rb26 rods you can clearly see the rb26 rod beams start to taper out wider closer to the little end than the rb25 rods. Using the protrusion on the side of the beams as a reference. The 26 rod has a much beefier lug area around the head of the bolt, which gives greater support to the most significant difference, where the 26 rod starts to taper out toward the rod bolt much higher up the rod length. This is significant because the inertial mass further away from the crank adds up and can cause permanent deformation or complete failure so has been countered by adding more and more material further away from the piston. So instead of more mass all along the rod, it has been added little by little where it is needed most. If a constant size rod were to snap due to inertia from mass toward the free end, it would obviously snap toward the constrained end. In addition the tapering gives significant columnar stability due to compressive forces. All of this adds up making this rod far more capable in terms of high power and high rpm application That is not to say that you won't get away with using an rb25 rod,but for the availability and cheap price of rb26 rods,if doing a rebuild, why wouldn't you throw them in for cheap insurance. Either way,any used factory rods should be fitted with new rod bolts,balanced and shotpeened/linished for the full prep. This is probably the reason most guys simply buy aftermarket rods eg SPOOL....it's not much more expensive and infinately safer. Guess it all boils down to application and budget.....oh and whether you are a gamblin' man(or gal) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 get spool rods. for the price, you can't even get rb26 rods fitted and have the bearings checked for proper clearances at the machine shop and the big ends bored to the proper size for the same price as a set of spool rods. in the end, forged rods would probably cost less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 Im using brian crower rods. Making close to 800 crank HP with no issues. have made many dyno runs and 30+ trips down the track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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