luvmy280zxt Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 Ok, Ive asked b4 about this problem and a few people gave me sum ideas. Tried them all and it worked 4 a bit. Am now almost over my budget and need a no Shizzle diagnosis!!! On start the car run's good. Its when i start driving. When in 2nd gear at 3000 rpms the car shudders bad. In 3rd it shudders at 4000 rpm. and i loose power unless i shift and give it gas. There are a few times while in idle ill rev up the eng and between 3-4000 rpm and it will shudder and ill hear a backfire from both the intake (NEW MAF) and exhaust. I've done a complete tune up!! Is there any connections I need to check? Also....dum question but, where exactly is the MAF located. LOL Thanx a lot!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbobluestreak Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 Did you check the CAS? Try swaping it out its hard to point the finger at the CAS if the car is starting but my studder was the CAS in mine. tbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvmy280zxt Posted August 19, 2008 Author Share Posted August 19, 2008 What exactly is the CAS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbobluestreak Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 Crank Angle Sensor on the 81zxt it located near the crank on the side with the AC compressor. I prefer the 82-83 style that is inside the distributor. You should download the Factory Service Manual. tbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvmy280zxt Posted August 20, 2008 Author Share Posted August 20, 2008 Crank Angle Sensor on the 81zxt it located near the crank on the side with the AC compressor. I prefer the 82-83 style that is inside the distributor. You should download the Factory Service Manual. tbs Thanx a bunch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 Take off the panel over the control unit by the driver's feet. Wiggle the wires gently near the connectors on the pcm when you run into the problem. Tell us if it made a difference. You might not be able to see over the dash while doing this so take a passenger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasZX Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 If your car is backfiring that is a surefire that something is causing your fuel air ratio to be screwed up. More towards the rich than lean. Check to see if your dizi is centered and doesn't have an advance or retard, if its backfiring and hesitating at certain rpm's especially the rpms when boost kicks in I'm thinking that the a/f ratio is REALLY rich, which would mean the timing is retarded. I hope that helps a bit. Maf is located right up against the drivers side front of the engine bay on near the core support. I'll find a pic of one or take one tomorrow whichever comes first. It's the silver box in front of the charge pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuoWing Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 Maybe a little off topic, but TexasZX is that your Z's engine bay? That's sweet. I love the use of blue on the valve cover, with the wires, and is the J-pipe Blue as well? That's really cool. To go along with HowlerMonkey I'd say to try this out. I had a very similar problem. Car ran great all the time, most of the time I was just low speed driving to work so I never noticed this problem. Then I got on the freeway and once I started to get under boost or up to higher RPM generally over 3000, it may have been closer to 3500. The car would start popping and just losing power like it didn't have enough fuel. This drove me nuts for a while. I remember pulling out the MAF and checking the boots, and checking the clamps on the boots, and making sure the J-pipe connection at the turbo was connected, checking vacuum lines, etc. Everything was fine. I unplugged the ECU connectors and plugged them back in. The problem was gone. Then next thing I knew it came back again. I reached down and shook the wiring at the ECU. Problem went away. I cleaned the ground connections to the intake manifold and this seemed to help. After a while the problem came back. The problem was related at least in my case to 2 ground wires on I think it's the bottom ECU plug? Anyway it's two black wires one over the other. They run separate and then into a metal crushed connector where they connect to a real big wire and two other black wires. These our the main ECU grounds. It just seems like this type of connection was fine at the time, but over time gets corroded or the wires must start to move a bit. I tried to use crimp connectors, but the one wire is so big it's hard to do it properly. So finally what I did was to just take the 5-wires. Twist them all together really well and solder them together. This finally got rid of my problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasZX Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 Not my engine bay, just looked it up on google, I wish my engine bay looked that good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvmy280zxt Posted October 27, 2008 Author Share Posted October 27, 2008 Ok finally got it fixed!! new CAS did it. Thanx for the help!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbobluestreak Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 Who called it. LOL tbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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