Z24O Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share Posted July 16, 2009 i'd like 2 sets of your -8 drain fittings and also the crank collars u mentioned for thr rb26.pm me details on your bank and i can wire tansfer the payment to you ASAP.by the way can u ship em to me in Malaysia?thanks guys after being stiffed by dwayne (badgti) who ordered 3 sets of crank collars,oil drains and cam cover fittings and has been promising to pay ever since.....i am going to have to take a loss on the parts i paid to have made up for him so US$90 for the crank collars US$35 for the head oil drains US$70 for a pair of cam cover breathers i will throw in free shipping if you order a set (4 fittings) sorry to say this will be the last time i offer to source parts i have found useful, to be shipped worldwide, there's always one who spoils it for everyone....thanks badgti from Malaysia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midnight-280Z Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 I ordered the head drain fitting (-8) from you like a while back, not sure if you remembered. I'm the one who reqeusted the fast shipping. You got the head drain in a -10? If so, let me know either by PM or email I'm interested as this will come in handy for a future build. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z24O Posted July 17, 2009 Author Share Posted July 17, 2009 Hope this thread isn't contravening the forum rules,if so then anyone interested in the 'leftovers' please just PM me for those that contacted me here are the pics you requested and paypal is fine cam cover fittings -10/-8 example of them on an engine head oil drain -8 ....fitted crank collar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsun dave Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 Hi Mike I will have a set of the cam cover breathers from you you have a PM. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsun dave Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 Payment sent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rb_darryl Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 I thought the flooding was only an issue with the Rb20's and the 25's??? Why not just get a few Tomei Oil restrictors?? or is this a better method? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z24O Posted July 20, 2009 Author Share Posted July 20, 2009 I thought the flooding was only an issue with the Rb20's and the 25's??? Why not just get a few Tomei Oil restrictors?? or is this a better method? i think the discussion at the beginning of this thread gos through the pros and cons:wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsun dave Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 Head drain plug now fitted to back of the head with my -8an oil return fitting ready to be welded onto my alloy sump/oil pan were do i fit it ? 1) Under the oil line. 2) Above the oil level. Picture please of yours fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 Head drain plug now fitted to back of the head with my -8an oil return fitting ready to be welded onto my alloy sump/oil pan were do i fit it ? 1) Under the oil line. 2) Above the oil level. Picture please of yours fitted. Above oil level. AFAIK, you'd never want an oil drain dumping out below the pan's oil level. Aside from which, based on what one of the expert head port shops in Japan stated (in an HZ thread, no less), this is more of an air return than an oil drain (kinda like that air vent on a gas can to make the gas pour down the spout much more quickly). I'd plumb it to the right side of the oil pan above oil level if it were mine. Likewise, I have a S2 RB25 and it needs a crank collar as well, so collars are not just an RB26 thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 cam cover fittings and head fitting still available? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 ready to buy both pm me please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 if they are not available, would there be any downside to me just tigging a bung in this location? anyone see any reason not to do that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roostmonkey Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 I still need one too. I'll take whatever size you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 (edited) im gonna find a steel freeze plug and tig a fitting to it. if it works i can make some, but im not at that point yet. anyone know the size of that plug off hand? Edited December 3, 2010 by boostedh23a1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast-datsun Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 to those who expressed an interest in the oil drains they are US$40 each plus post quality CNC diy part,easily fitted and removed if you ever choose to sell the head stock PM me if you want any and specify -8 or -10 (by the way both sizes have been tested on an RB26 at revs and they flowed oil almost identically) payal is available for payment Are these still available if so what is the price and when can I get some???? -10's Mack McKinney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 mack, i think this was a one time run, i plan on using a steel freeze plug and tigging a steel an bung on it... i would assume you can do the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 I would not have dared to rain on the OP's parade, but now that he seems to be out of steam and this is technical (not classifieds)... The rear drain (or vent in my opinion) is best done with a fitting made to adapt from pipe-thread to AN. I was specifically peeking around the oil drain galleys on my S2 RB25 when I had it apart to clean everything up. The 'freeze plug' sits at least 1/4"+ off the bottom of the oil galley. If you actually wanna drain oil from it, it's best off to drill and tap a hole so it sits squarely on the bottom of the oil galley. Like I said, however, with the head being slanted and the plug hole being above the bottom anyways, the chance of draining a substantial amount of oil with it is pretty low, IMHO; particularly if you aren't pulling ridiculous forward G's. Just install the head with the plug removed and visualize how high the oil level would have to be to cause it to actually drain oil; even with the forward g-force scenario. If you look at the front of the motor, the head is slanted to the drivers side and the oil drains are on the drivers side. Likewise, the engine rotates clockwise, so the rotating assembly is going to make the air in the crankcase and oil drain galleys try to rotate clockwise as well. In other words, downward on the drivers side and upwards on the passengers side. At high rpm with the engine spinning so furiously (and with small room to spare in the crankcase) it is probably quite difficult for the air to rush up to the head to displace the large volume of oil constantly trying to drain out by passing the oil going the other way on the driver's side. With that in mind, it makes sense that the RB needs a big air-exchange path on the passenger side of the engine to help displace the oil that is trying to drain out of the head on the driver's side. As such, I still think you could drill and tap a hole anywhere on the passenger side and run it down to the sump; ideally above the windage tray. If you wanna TIG a bung onto the freeze plug, I am sure summit racing has them. I don't know an equivalent year/make/model of freeze plug that would work, however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast-datsun Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 mack, i think this was a one time run, i plan on using a steel freeze plug and tigging a steel an bung on it... i would assume you can do the same If he is no longer making them I will make some to sell....if there is some intrest............??????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted December 12, 2010 Share Posted December 12, 2010 If he is no longer making them I will make some to sell....if there is some intrest............??????????? i will be your quinne pig... throw one in with my oil pan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmanout84 Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 I would not have dared to rain on the OP's parade, but now that he seems to be out of steam and this is technical (not classifieds)... The rear drain (or vent in my opinion) is best done with a fitting made to adapt from pipe-thread to AN. I was specifically peeking around the oil drain galleys on my S2 RB25 when I had it apart to clean everything up. The 'freeze plug' sits at least 1/4"+ off the bottom of the oil galley. If you actually wanna drain oil from it, it's best off to drill and tap a hole so it sits squarely on the bottom of the oil galley. Like I said, however, with the head being slanted and the plug hole being above the bottom anyways, the chance of draining a substantial amount of oil with it is pretty low, IMHO; particularly if you aren't pulling ridiculous forward G's. Just install the head with the plug removed and visualize how high the oil level would have to be to cause it to actually drain oil; even with the forward g-force scenario. If you look at the front of the motor, the head is slanted to the drivers side and the oil drains are on the drivers side. Likewise, the engine rotates clockwise, so the rotating assembly is going to make the air in the crankcase and oil drain galleys try to rotate clockwise as well. In other words, downward on the drivers side and upwards on the passengers side. At high rpm with the engine spinning so furiously (and with small room to spare in the crankcase) it is probably quite difficult for the air to rush up to the head to displace the large volume of oil constantly trying to drain out by passing the oil going the other way on the driver's side. With that in mind, it makes sense that the RB needs a big air-exchange path on the passenger side of the engine to help displace the oil that is trying to drain out of the head on the driver's side. As such, I still think you could drill and tap a hole anywhere on the passenger side and run it down to the sump; ideally above the windage tray. If you wanna TIG a bung onto the freeze plug, I am sure summit racing has them. I don't know an equivalent year/make/model of freeze plug that would work, however. To add to what WizardBlack is saying, refer to page two of this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/72928-rb-rebuild/page__st__20 It explains a lot about this issue from the standpoint of someone who has a great deal of experience with these engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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