theBrit Posted September 5, 2008 Share Posted September 5, 2008 I currently have a common issue, with a common hybrid v8 set up, trying to get the power down without to much push. The quick question is does anyone here have a 73 240z with a stock location 260/280 rear bar fitted. The 73 appears to have the same factory mointing points as the later cars, or is the only option to drill holes to fit a rear bar to a 240? Now the details and history. LT1 V8, 2600 lbs Front lowered 185lb 2.5" front springs, using MR2 totiko adjustable struts and 1" sway bar, 245x17 tires Rear lowered 225 2.5" rear springs with front 240 totiko adjustable strut V8, quaiffe LSD, 275x17 tires I feel like the car pushes a little, and out of the options I have read about to dial a little of the push out I thought I would try a light rear sway bar to even up both ends. My car is a 73 which has sway bar attachment points that appear to match those found on 260 and 280 cars. They look like the ones in the Haynes and Chilton manuals that show a rear bar. I was just taking with MSA because I ordered their bars and expected them to fit the factory brackets I have at the rear, which they dont. Talking with them all their 240 bars require drilling holes to fit, and they think 260 and 280 bars will not work. I did some googling and found that others have a 260 bar fitted, but I'd like to get my facts straight before either 1. getting 260 bars and looking for my self 2. drilling holes Thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted September 5, 2008 Share Posted September 5, 2008 If you were running the same sized tire front and rear, I'd say you would have a pretty good set-up. But the larger rear tire will make quite a bit of difference. My experience showed significant changes even with a 20mm difference. Does the MSA rear bar mount behind the differential? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 With your power it would be a better solution to get rid of the understeer by working on the front setup, rather than by adding a ARB to the back. It would also be worth swapping the present springs around, have the heavier springs at the front, to see what that does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theBrit Posted September 6, 2008 Author Share Posted September 6, 2008 blueovalz It mounts to the floor against the square left right frame, and looks to me like the new mount point ends up next to the stock one, but the bar is not long enough to pick up the stock points. I was hoping some one with a 260 who has one might have pictures. 260DET I dont have a lot of experience setting something like this up. I had a classic mini way back, and that thing was like a go cart, it had a similar set of changes but there was no tire disparity. and no sway bars, it was fantastic, although a little prone to lifting an inside wheel on roundabouts (traffic circles) If I were to change the front, would I use a smaller sway bar ? Could I use a softer rear spring and keep the front as it is ? the front feels like its just right over NJs lumpy roads, the rear a little harsh but not unbearable. Thanks for your thoughts. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted November 14, 2008 Share Posted November 14, 2008 Hi Mike, Did you ever figure out the "pushing" problem? I have a V8 260 that has MSA bard front and back. Haven't played with that car for a while since the turbo car and the LS1 car have been taking all of my time. Have you tried removing the rear bar completely? Easy to do and free Somerville to Westwood is about an hour. Stop by sometime Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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