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More on angle plug heads/headers


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

Hey guys,

I have perused the list, and im looking to find any advice on the BEST kind and most compatible headers for use with my small block chevy/dat240z combo with aluminum angle plug heads. I am running a t56 and the jtr mounts..if that helps.

i heard that matt millen has full length 1.75/3.00 headers..anyone got a part # for these..and how do they fit?

thanks

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I have spoken with Matt on the phone and he is very helpful and informative. Send him some e-mail, because I believe that he had big problems with his headers. A very reasonable alternative option is the Sanderson 1 3/4 cast aluminum manifold that is full equal length 1 3/4 tubes that run to a 2.5 ot 3 inch collector. They are awesome.

 

Mike Kelly

 

------------------

 

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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I followed the Sanderson link someone posted the other day and I was amazed at all the different block hugger header designs they had. The have them that are made to work with all different types of SBC heads, angle plug you name it. Check it out!. They have a range of primary diameters also.

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Guest NOSZCAR

I used the S&S full length headers that are 1.75 with 3" collecter. We had to bend them in and down a little, I have small kicks but no big deal. I used Iron Eagle angle pluged heads with no problem! If you want I'll get you the part #.

 

Jason

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I used block huggers for angle plug heads from a Street Rod company (http://www.zigsstreetrods.com)I test fit the engine with the headers on, with the JTR mounts, and the 1/2 inch spacers between the frame and cross member. They touched the passenger frame, which I dimpled(the frame). But the drivers side ,the steering shaft was in the way. So I went to Granger and bought a u-joint and a rod end, and will splice the steering shaft and install the u-joint, and rod end to hold the shaft. That will clear the headers. If this can be done with Street Rods, why not a Z car!

 

 

 

 

[This message has been edited by Mike kZ (edited May 05, 2000).]

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I had tons of problems with mine! end result is i had to jack the motor up 1.5 inches for clearance. I have DartII's with angle plugs

I had to get hearders with the 2 inside tubes reversed. I can send you some close up pics monday if you want. email me...

you can also see a little in the members rides section.. I used header wrap to keep the heat off the wire looms and starter.

The stuff works like a champ, but i have heard that they may cause the headers to crack over a long period of time.

Myron

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Guest Anonymous

I anticipated that the headers would be a problem on my car when the time came for their installation so I widened the spaceframe 2" on each side to allow for a very low engine mounting position. My exhaust is going to be routed out along the sill rails and then back into the center of the car on the forward edge of the rear wheel wells. They are then going to run straight back and exit right in the center of the rear valance like a Ferarri!!!

 

SpencZ

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Guest Anonymous

hey guys,

thanks for all the responses and ideas, I was wondering if someone could post the s&s full length part #s, also i had visited the sanderson link and was wondering if anyone knows the best header that they offer to use. I mocked my engine up with some hookers, and they work great...all except for the angle plugs. so whats comparable as far as space requirements, and dump out location to the hooker brand?

thanks

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  • 1 year later...
Guest Anonymous

Jason & Mike Kelly,

I have some 5205HPC (powder coated) full length S&S headers sitting here. I did a test fit and found that they won't mount without removing the knock sensors on my LT1 motor. Also, they hang almost 3" below the pan. I have some questions for the two of you -- if I have someone bend them, I am going to destroy the powder coating, right (maybe I can exchange them for some that aren't coated yet)? Would I be beter off returning them and getting the Sanderson cast aluminum manifolds? Are these what you are using (Mike)? If so, did you have to modify them at all to make them fit, and do they leave some space between themselves and the block (knock sensors)?

 

Thanks

- Rob MacMorran www.gatewayzclub.com

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