mobythevan Posted January 29, 2002 Share Posted January 29, 2002 Ok, before anyone beats me up too bad... I did search and read all of the posts on swapping r200 into the 240z (in place of r180). The only thing that wasn't crystal clear to me from the search is the half shaft stubs. I found an r200 LSD unit, but it is just the pumpkin. It does not have any half shafts or the stubs that mount to the half shafts. So, the simple question: will my r180 half shaft stubs swap into the r200 LSD pumpkin? BTW, it is a 72 240z and the r200 LSD is from an 88 turbo. Just want to make sure before i fork out the dough and get the r200 home. mobythevan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Baldwin Posted January 29, 2002 Share Posted January 29, 2002 You'll need stubs from an R200-equipped 280Z, as well as input flange. IF your diff is a viscous unit from an SS model (all pearl white), then you've got some more work to do to make the stubs fit. I've heard that snap-ring grooves must be machined into one or both output flanges to fit. Also, you're going to need to either modify your existing moustache bar, or get one from an R200 280Z. The R200 has larger studs mounting the back cover to the car, and they are spaced further apart. What I did was slot the holes in my existing moustache bar. I found I also had to slot the holes in the front diff mount. Some say R200 280Z halfshafts are required, but I've used my old 240Z halfshafts with my LSD R200 for over 5 years now. Rotsa Ruck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted January 29, 2002 Share Posted January 29, 2002 You can skip those 'stubs' entirely and go straight to CV halfshafts if you want. Eliminates that flanged connection at the diff, both U joints and results in a rock solid setup without breakage concerns. CV halfshafts have that diff side 'stub/insert' built into the halfshaft so the only bolted connection is at the hubside. Just an option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 29, 2002 Share Posted January 29, 2002 ROSS C, how much would a complete set up be for the CV conversion.....tired of u-joints breaking. need everything....thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted January 30, 2002 Author Share Posted January 30, 2002 Yeah, I can get the r200 LSD from the guy, and he has the 280z mustache bar for r200, and the 280z stubs for the r200. He only wants $25 for the stubs in addition, so I think I'll try those first. then i may upgrade to the cv halfshafts if breakage is an issue. Thanks for the pointers. mobythevan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted January 30, 2002 Share Posted January 30, 2002 "ROSS C, how much would a complete set up be for the CV conversion?" $300US includes - the adaptors precision tig welded by my machinist to a pair of 280Z companion flanges -280Z stub axles with the inner collars -complete hardware kit which includes 280ZXT stub nuts (preferred OEM pinch style) You can save $100 if you supply your own companion flanges to me and don't require stub axles from myself. The CV axles you have to source yourself as I simply can't source enough good used ones to meet demand and new/rebuilts are unavailable from suppliers I've come across to date. A complete rear OEM Nissan bearing kit is $120US including synthetic grease (so you never have to do it again ) is an option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 30, 2002 Share Posted January 30, 2002 i wish i could i find a r200 lsd.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dp351zcar Posted January 30, 2002 Share Posted January 30, 2002 Ross that $300 is tempting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 30, 2002 Share Posted January 30, 2002 ...ok just so i dont buy anything i dont need....i have a complete 280z (76) suspension under my 71 240z...it already has the r200 lsd there....so does that mean i have the companion flange's and the stub axles w/ collars that i need. just trying to make sure, but i belive i already do have them......thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted January 30, 2002 Share Posted January 30, 2002 Look at it this way: R200 Quaife diff for an R200 Ross' CV conversion For $1,500 to $1,800 you'll have a "hell for strong", maximun traction rear driveline. Anyone priced a complete Ford 9" rear (including axles) from Currie? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted January 30, 2002 Author Share Posted January 30, 2002 update, went and picked up the r200 LSD today, along with the mustache bar and r200-open output shafts. I saw mention in some older posts about someone selling a replacement rear brace that works with the finned diff cover. Anyone still doing this? If not I'll fab one up. I'm not going to swap an r200-open input flange to this diff because I have to get a drivshaft built anyway. So I'm just going to have the drive shaft built to bolt directly to the existing input flange on the r200 LSD. I'm in business, not I just have to get all of the welding done. mobythevan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted January 30, 2002 Share Posted January 30, 2002 'gearhead240z': if you already have an R200 install done and functioning (ie. R200 halfshafts etc) then you only need the $180 option from me if you send your companion flanges (small lighweight flange on inside edge of rear hub that halfshaft bolts to), $25 more for hardware as noted. PS I sell the quaiffe's as well. Jerry at Unitrax seems to have a good rep for install/setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest triple_threat311 Posted January 31, 2002 Share Posted January 31, 2002 ross, what is the turnaround on the companion flange? How long will it take to weld on the adapter then ship back? anthony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted January 31, 2002 Share Posted January 31, 2002 Originally posted by mobythevan:...I saw mention in some older posts about someone selling a replacement rear brace that works with the finned diff cover. Anyone still doing this?... Yes, I think there still is someone doing this. Try this link here: http://www.kaynor.net/v8-240z/index.html Hope that helps. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted January 31, 2002 Share Posted January 31, 2002 Originally posted by triple_threat311:ross, what is the turnaround on the companion flange? How long will it take to weld on the adapter then ship back? anthony Anthony, if you want your exact pair of companion flanges back then allow a few days for the above to occur as I don't visit my machinist daily. If you're simply sending your flanges as core replacements then I have pairs already welded to 280Z flanges that can ship within 2 days of your payment, assuming your companion flanges will be enroute. If your situation ever requires 'next-day' service just let me know and you'll be accomodated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted January 31, 2002 Share Posted January 31, 2002 Ross with the CV swap what kind of hp numbers can the setup with stand.... im looking at 600+hp in the future and dont want anything in the driveline to break because its not strong enough. I allready have a ford 9 inch with 35 spline Moser axles (strong!!!!) swap but i was curiuos what that setup is good for. looking for a strange nodular center section with hi 4 or low 5 gearing. thanks stony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted February 2, 2002 Share Posted February 2, 2002 "Ross with the CV swap what kind of hp numbers can the setup with stand" Stony, I can't honestly say as IMO, the CNC piece I make will be the last piece to brake in the system. So it most likely comes down to your wheel studs, stub axles, CV axles, rear diff, driveshaft joints etc etc.....at least that's my take on it. Scottie ran it with his 500/500+ combo with no trouble at all repeatedly. I don't think any of us have much experience in the 500+ hp or torque level with Datsun setups???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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