Challenger Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 Well for my senior project Ive decided to document my suspension replacement/installation. As of now almost everything is repainted, new, etc. and I will take pictures as I go, explain what Im replacing and why, and what their benefits are... This seemed to be the best place to make a slideshow/documentation so here it goes... REPLACING- Ball Joints (L&R) $34 each- Old ones greese boots had deteriorated and lost the lubrication needed for constant movement. (purchased from MSA) Outer Tie Rod Ends- (L&R) $26 each- Like ball joints, greese boots were gone leaving metal on metal wear. (shucks) Tokico HP Springs and Struts- (all 4 corners) $330 shipped- Replaces the old springs and struts. The stock springs are softer leaving more possibility for body roll. As for struts, the stock struts leave the ride soft and is often compared to a boat. These springs also lower the car approximately 1.5-2 inches to further reduce body roll. The fact that the car is 30 years old amplitudes these effects. (ebay) Energy Suspension Urethane Bushing Kit- $163 shipped- Replaces and improves the stock rubber bushings with urethane bushings. Takes the "slop" out of the suspension for a firmer feel and better handling characteristics. Note- Several issues have surfaced regarding the TC bushings (breaking) and it has been "solved" by using normal rubber in the back and urethane in the front. (Energy Suspension) Bump Steer Spacers- (L&R) $60- Fixes alignment issues associated with lowering the car. Reduces cornering "jitters" because of changed alignment. (MSA) Rear Spindle Pins- $77- As rust is common in Z car bodies, its common in the suspension... when attempting to remove the spindle pins, you almost always have to destroy them, or they get damaged in removal. It is easier and much better to just cough up the money and buy new ones. (Jaremko Nissan) RESTORED All other parts related to suspension were either painted in black or red (sway bars and TC rods). MOCK UP- FRONT SUSPENSION- EXPLODED VIEW MOCK UP FRONT SUSPENSION Plans for Tomorrow- - Install struts and springs into the shock body/spindle assembly. - Begin to install and torque down mocked up pieces above. Depending on how far I get start mocking up the rear suspenion and do the same process as above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 16, 2008 Author Share Posted September 16, 2008 Hit a few set backs today but got a bit finished. STRUT INSTALL Began with both the front and rear bare shock tubes/hubs. The struts (blue tube) slides into the shock tubes and with the provided gland nuts is held into position. The gland nuts sit at the top of the shock tube over the strut shaft.... before putting on the nut your required to add light weight oil into the tube until it is about 1.5-2 inches away from the top. Wasnt able to torque them down since I recieved only 3 correct nuts, the last ones will be here tomorrow. REAR SUSPENSION MOCK UP- PARTIALLY ASSEMBLED This is what it looks like mocked up. Mustache bar at the bottom, rear control arm pivot mount and both control arms. Bushings to be pressed in have been and are ready to go. On the outsides you have the shock assemblies in a exploded view. Front sway bar is not pictured but runs from middle of one control arm forward and then to the other sides and down to the control arm. MORE BEING REPLACED Rear Halfshaft U-Joints- $100- Fixes any vibration and shutters from worn out U joints. Replaces one of the oil fill holes that was accidently broken off. (napa) PLANS FOR TOMORROW Actually start assembling front suspension. Torque down gland nuts Possibly finish assembling shock assembly Remove diff cover and drain fluid/replace, paint cover red Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8_DatZun Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 thanks for posting the pics! i too soon will be doing this in my 280zx. is there any simple way to remove all this in one or two big sections instead of unbolting every individual piece? that way you can kind of keep it all together? also mocked up how you have it.. can it be installed pretty much just like that onto the car? or will you have to disassemble some of it to get it in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 16, 2008 Author Share Posted September 16, 2008 When I mocked it up I just slid bolts in or just put stuff on so it looked like it was bolted together. Youll have to take alot of it apart. Today I put the ball joints and knuckles onto the control arms and theyll go on that way. Then everything pretty much bolts onto that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8_DatZun Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 ah ok. havent fooled with any of the suspension yet... still working on body etc... post more pics if you get time. looking good so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 16, 2008 Author Share Posted September 16, 2008 UPDATE- Both control arms and TC's are on. Ball joints and knuckles are attached to the control arm. All bolts were tightened but not torqued to specs. Id feel safe driving it cause theyre all really tight but not to spec. I had mentioned using both rubber and urethane bushings for the red TC rod. I used my old rubber bushings in the back (they were newer, no cracks) and then I used the new urethane on the front. Tie rod ends will be attached once shocks are in. Now onto the u joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 I love the TC rods and sway bars in red... thanks for the idea Lookin good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 16, 2008 Author Share Posted September 16, 2008 Wait till you see the springs.. PROGRESS... Installed the mustache bar/bushings, and the rear control arm mounts. Removed the cover for the diff and cleaned it up stripped the paint and then painted it red like the other pieces. Cutting bumpstops (included in bushing kits) is neccesary to gain suspension travel. The bump stop sits on the strut shaft between the gland nut and the top perch under the dust boot. Like this. (not my photo) EXAMPLE OF WHAT CUTTING THEM DOES-Just imagine the shock can travel 5 inches till it hits the 2 inch bump stop. Now I lower the car 1 inch so I need to gain that inch back, I cut the bumpstop in half and I have the extra inch of travel I need. Tokico suggest no more than cutting it in half due to possibility of the bump stop failing (splitting??) and the strut being destroyed. As of 7 oclock no gland nuts... I guess no shock assembly today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 17, 2008 Author Share Posted September 17, 2008 Had forgotten to grease the control arm bearings, pulled them apart and greased them... took awhile but it said it was important on the instructions. PLANS FOR TODAY Still waiting on my gland nuts. Once I get those I can put the shocks together and attach them to the control arms. Also when I go out hopefully today to get the gland nuts torqued Ill pick up some gear oil for the diff and reassemble it and put it back in the car. Also need to pull the U joints/halfshafts apart to put in the new ones. Trying to figure out how... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 19, 2008 Author Share Posted September 19, 2008 UPDATE COSTS -Gasket, sealant, and oil, $27. Took alot of time and one broken u joint but I got it all together. Also reassembled halfshaft, diff, and driveshaft. Tomorrow I will fill it and install it with the rear control arms possibly... might wait to put the spindle pins in. Still no gland nut, getting kind of mad. I start school monday and after that there wont be much time to work. They said it would be here wed. but it never came. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 19, 2008 Author Share Posted September 19, 2008 PROGRESS Diff, half shafts, and driveshaft are in the car. NEW PARTS 83 280zx calipers and rotors came in yesterday. I will be using them on the rear along with zraceproducts brackets. (which will be here next week) ALSO STILL NO GLAND NUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8ZRACER260Z Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 Looks great! Good job documenting the overhaul. Two things I noticed though. 1) You may already know this but wait till the car is back on the ground sitting on the wheels to torque the lower contriol arm bushings where they meet the unibody. This will prevent you from pre loading those bushings and putting too much preasure on them as well as aftecting the ride height. 2) I'm being picky here, but why not paint the half shafts black like the rest of the suspension. They will stand out from the reast of the nicly painted suspension. Again great Job! Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 23, 2008 Author Share Posted September 23, 2008 Yeah regarding the halfshafts I didnt want to take them apart to paint them. I cleaned them up pretty well and I dont think theyll look bad. As for the bushings, thanks, Ill be sure to wait. Also I got the gland nut finally and took the shocks to schwabs this afternoon, theyll be done tomorrow. (hopefully) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8ZRACER260Z Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Good deal. keep us updated with the pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 23, 2008 Author Share Posted September 23, 2008 Got them back!!!! Only cost me $20. Now Im just waiting for the top perches to dry (paint) and Ill start assembling them. I started mocking up the one (not in photo) and it seems like I wont need a spring compressor to get these on. Its all just bolt together.. Im thinking it will lower the car alittle more than 1.5 inches. NEW PARTS -Frame Front Control Arm Bushings, for some reason not included in the kit?? $15 from Energy Suspension -Rear Disk Brake COnversion brackets, from ZRACEPRODUCTS for $130 shipped. Will post pics when they come. REAR SHOCKS ASSEMBLED EXPLODED VIEW FOR FRONTS Back to work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 23, 2008 Author Share Posted September 23, 2008 DONE!! Going to go put on fronts now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 So prettah! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Z Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 nice progress! for some reason or another I was under the impression that you had already sorted out your suspension setup and thats why you were going to build the turbo motor. Looks like almost he exact same setup that I have but I have Suspension Techniques springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 23, 2008 Author Share Posted September 23, 2008 Yeah well actually its the other way.. Sold my turbo stuff so I could sort out my suspension and wheels. Got over zealous.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 Got one side in. Had a few logistics problems... Also dont mind the different color undercoatings. Black was sprayed by the painter but the suspension was in so it all wasnt hit. I got a can to touch it up and this is how it comes out!!! Should have just left it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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