cannonball55 Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 http://i445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/55cannonball55/DSC01970.jpg Wish I would have spent the extra few hundred bucks and went with the 4L60E trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted December 3, 2008 Author Share Posted December 3, 2008 IT looks like that shaft the throttle blade rotates on, that has the screws that hold the round throttle blade, has one end that’s rotated by that covered control, or solenoid the electric plugs, mounted under. If it’s removable at least temporarily, it would appear that a custom and longer shaft could be made or fabricated and the opposite wall of the throttle bore drilled so it could protrude outside the throttle body housing to provide a external shaft to attach a lever to that would activate the TV cable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cannonball55 Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 Grumpy i was looking on LS1tech.com and may have stumbled apon a couple ways to fix my problem. Just wanted to pass them on to you incase someone else asks my question at a later date. One guy there just created a bracket that is attached to his gas pedal that pulls the TV cable to its w.o.t position as the pedal bottoms out. He says its works fine. Another option is to attach a "dummy" throttle cable to the gas pedal and run it underhood to a spring loaded lever that would then pull the TV cable instead of the throttle body butterfly. I think i'm going to go with the second option myself. I think it will be easier to adjust it that way. Thanks, Stewart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted December 4, 2008 Author Share Posted December 4, 2008 YOU BEAT ME TO POSTING THAT INFO,or answer to the problem. I WAS DRINKING COFFEE, this morning and the wife ask me why I had this strange look and I said , Id just thought of the obvious answer to a guys problem, I was going to say why not mount a second throttle cable to a bracket where the cable control for the 700r4 trans could be also mounted, since the trans has no need to know exactly what the THROTTLE is doing but only the engine rpms load and speed of the car , http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D20%2D113&N=700+115&autoview=sku Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagerty_justin Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Grumpy, I haven been looking on many websites for awhile and i cant seem to find any pistons for a 75 260z. I have found amny that are .030 over but i dont want to bore the engine out that much. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-rib-73-240z Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Grumpy, I haven been looking on many websites for awhile and i cant seem to find any pistons for a 75 260z. I have found amny that are .030 over but i dont want to bore the engine out that much. Thanks depends on motor but if you got a l28.... http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt43033/pd858319/KAMEARI_L28_RACING_PISTON_KITS_ or you can use the pistons out of a ka24 it will lower the compression but ehh i dont know about l26 or l24 pistons, if your talking about a v8 sorry i waisted your time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdsk8ter Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Whats the best way to size a throttlebody for my application? sbc 383 lt1 intake (could go aftermarket up to 90mm) turbo (s400) on about 8-10 psi Ideally 600rwhp range but want the capibility of more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustin280zx Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Whats the best way to size a throttlebody for my application? sbc 383 lt1 intake (could go aftermarket up to 90mm) turbo (s400) on about 8-10 psi Ideally 600rwhp range but want the capibility of more. You should at least have it the same size (area) as your intake tubing. Bigger won't hurt any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdsk8ter Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 ok im running 3" would a 58mm work? or do I need larger? my math says a 76 ish carry the one lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustin280zx Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 ok im running 3" would a 58mm work? or do I need larger? my math says a 76 ish carry the one lol 58mm would be a large restriction. At least a 75. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdsk8ter Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 58mm would be a large restriction. At least a 75. thats what i didnt want to hear but i guess its what i needed to hear. What about exhaust would a single 4" oval be good for the flow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share Posted December 9, 2008 question, the TPI intake uses a DUAL 58mm BLADE throttle body that flows easily more than necessary to get to 600hp even un-supercharged. ford and some chevy on some engines use a single BLADE throttle body WHAT ARE YOU USEING? a dual 58mm equals a single 82mm throttle body flow rate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustin280zx Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 thats what i didnt want to hear but i guess its what i needed to hear. What about exhaust would a single 4" oval be good for the flow 4" oval would be fine. That's what I'm running. If you have a throttle body already then try it. If it's not making the power it should then get a bigger one. 600 wheel isn't asking for too much with 383/s475 combo with a decent top end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdsk8ter Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 question, the TPI intake uses a DUAL 58mm BLADE throttle body that flows easily more than necessary to get to 600hp even un-supercharged. ford and some chevy on some engines use a single BLADE throttle body WHAT ARE YOU USEING? a dual 58mm equals a single 82mm throttle body flow rate im not running either yet but if a dual 58 will work then sweetness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share Posted December 9, 2008 A dual 58 mm throttle body can easily supply 1000cfm,of air flow and easily support over 600hp, and add a nitrous plate behind it or dirrect port injection for the nitrous and your easily over 700 plus hp. YES direct port injection is superior too a behind the throttle body spray bar for both hp potential and for fuel/air/nitrous distribution. A WET system like this (BELOW)will require that you drill the runners and weld in bungs but it provides superior hp and control. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D05088NOS&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D13420NOS&N=700+115&autoview=sku ID strongly suggest you never even think about a dry nitrous system as they tend to have far more problems, if you don,t have a TIG welder you can use alumaweld on the bungs http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=851 you use alumaweld like a aluminum solder, and while its not as good as a TIG WELD , mits certainly servicable in that application if done correctly, just be sure the bungs are welded in a location so that individual fogger nozzels point at the back of the intake valves, and you can plumb and wire up the feed lines correctly, think it thru carfully before drilling or welding on your intake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdsk8ter Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 A dual 58 mm throttle body can easily supply 1000cfm,of air flow and easily support over 600hp, and add a nitrous plate behind it or dirrect port injection for the nitrous and your easily over 700 plus hp.YES direct port injection is superior too a behind the throttle body spray bar for both hp potential and for fuel/air/nitrous distribution. A WET system like this (BELOW)will require that you drill the runners and weld in bungs but it provides superior hp and control. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D05088NOS&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D13420NOS&N=700+115&autoview=sku ID strongly suggest you never even think about a dry nitrous system as they tend to have far more problems, if you don,t have a TIG welder you can use alumaweld on the bungs http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=851 you use alumaweld like a aluminum solder, and while its not as good as a TIG WELD , mits certainly servicable in that application if done correctly, just be sure the bungs are welded in a location so that individual fogger nozzels point at the back of the intake valves, and you can plumb and wire up the feed lines correctly, think it thru carfully before drilling or welding on your intake. I want to avoid nos never really been a fan call me nuts but I just done really care for it maybe someday though. Ok probably by the time its running ill want it but as of now I think ill be good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share Posted December 9, 2008 I want to avoid nos never really been a fan call me nuts but I just done really care for it maybe someday though. Ok probably by the time its running ill want it but as of now I think ill be good The dual 58 mm throttle body like those used on some of the aftermarket tpi intakes will easily support 600 n/a hp if the heads, cam, and intake flow can match its potential. you don,t need nitrous but it certainly can be used, and if used correctly its an easy boost to the hp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdsk8ter Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 The dual 58 mm throttle body like those used on some of the aftermarket tpi intakes will easily support 600 n/a hp if the heads, cam, and intake flow can match its potential.you don,t need nitrous but it certainly can be used, and if used correctly its an easy boost to the hp. Yeah Im still trying to decide how I want to build the motor Ive been doing alot alot of reading and alot of asking of the "what would you do diffrent" and am getting closer to a choice. I know the block I have will limit my potential but I regretfully wouldnt have the money to go anyother method at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zmaster Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 i have a good question for you. I drive a 1975 280z with a l28 fuel injection, and it hesitates everywhere i drive, it will not go over 40 mph. but when i completely top off the tank it wil drive fine, it won't hesitate until it sucks 3 gallons out of a fully topped of tank what do you think could be the problem, i have checked the afm, replaced the injectors, fuel lines, and cleaned the tank. the only thing i haven't checked is the ecu, thermotime switch, air regulator, the coolant temp sender or sensor. Oh and ont top of all of that i just replaced my heater core, and it still blows out cold air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagerty_justin Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 depends on motor but if you got a l28.... http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt43033/pd858319/KAMEARI_L28_RACING_PISTON_KITS_ or you can use the pistons out of a ka24 it will lower the compression but ehh i dont know about l26 or l24 pistons, if your talking about a v8 sorry i waisted your time Okay, thanks but why doesn't anyone make a nice piston set for the datsun l26? I would like to keep the original engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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