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Hey Grumpy,

 

I purchased a 5 qt oil pan for 55-79 sbc and Spectre pn 42555 dipstick for 55-79 sbc. I checked oil pick up to pan clearance and its at 1/4 in. I filled the oil filter with fresh oil and filled the pan with 4 qts of oil and checked the level. I expected the oil to be close to the add level on the dipstick but it was well under that. I'm now have 6 qts in the pan and the filter and it is between add and full. The engine has not been run yet. Is this normal for a 5 qt pan? Am I overlooking something? I was thinking of pulling the pan and checking the level and seeing if it is above the tray or hitting the crank. What is a acceptable level?

 

Heres a link to the pan I have.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-SMALL-BLOCK-CHEVY-350-IMCA-RACING-CHEATER-OIL-PAN_W0QQitemZ380094976533QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item380094976533&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A727%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

 

Thanks Brian

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OK, first theres dozens of dip stick lengths, dipstick tube lengths and pan depths so you always need to verify both before matching them up.

Next, once the engine starts up and runs for a minute theres about 2 qts of oil in the upper engine, oil passages,oil filter, valve covers and lifter gallery, and not in the oil pan.

 

Generally an oil pan like that will function just fine on most cars,with 6 qts or 5 qts, but if youve got the skills, time, creative desire, and a welder you can usually add extra capacity after careful measurment rather easily.

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=65

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hello from downunder Grumpy I have a 280zx with a 283 with the basics stage 5 cam ballance mild heads turbo 200 r4 with 4.8 rear gears my question to you is a nitrous one, can I run a dual plane holly manifold without a spacer under the carby as in only the squirter plate . My concern is not getting even fuel nitrous mix thus causing piston burn as the single plane does have the divider still intact can you assist you normally have good info as I realy don't want to change intake manifolds but I have to I will main issue bonet clearance to carby its a sleeper thank you 5litre z

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LOTS of guys have both hood clearance issues and a desire to keep their hood looking stock, but want to run a healthy nitrous system, on their dual plane factory intake so they won’t need to add a hood scoop.

 

If your going to use a single spray bar nitrous system under the carb, a high rise single plane with a direct line of site shot from the plenum to the back of the intake valve in the heads is the PREFERED route with NITROUS

I generally use this SBC intake.

hly-300-110.jpg

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HLY%2D300%2D110&autoview=sku

 

or this one

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D9901%2D101%2D1&N=700+303894+115&autoview=sku

hly-9901-101-1.jpg

 

no the injector bungs are not a direct fit to the fogger nozzles but it speeds the conversion.

nos-02001nos_w.jpg

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D02001NOS&N=700+115&autoview=sku

 

But since you’ve got clearance issues and choose not to swap intakes, you can EITHER have the divider in the dual plane plenum removed by almost any milling machine equipped machine shop and have a reasonable component that should function, reasonably well, or take a different route, like I point out below, I doubt the dual plane/single spray bar will be AS effective at fuel/air ratio control but it should function, and there’s lots of guys doing that, so its not doing something totally new. OR you can insure equal fuel/air distribution and decent power with a direct port nitrous set up. Where, you’ll have each intake runner equipped /with a threaded bung with its own fogger nozzle.

nos-02462nos_w.jpg

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D02462NOS&N=700+115&autoview=sku

 

on BBC engines I’ve generally used the HOLLEY EFI intakes as they are pre set up to some extent.

hly-9901-209.jpg

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D9901%2D209&N=700+303894+115&autoview=sku

IF you don’t remove the plenum divider in the dual plane intake plenum, there’s a BETTER chance of having distribution issues but there’s lots of guys doing it successfully so it can be done, only testing will tell.

 

BTW MOST FOGGER NOZZLES ARE THREADED FOR 1/16" N/P THREAD, so youll still need welding or epoxy to get them adapted & installed

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Carb sizing question followup. The more I research the issue, look at Holley's sizing chart and get opinions, the more I am confused. I have a clone of the Edelbrock 435HP crate motor with exceptions of Brodix IK200 Heads and 10.5 compression. I have been running a borrowed dirt track racing "650" Holley DP that did fine on road courses and autocrosses. Out of the corner throttle response was great. It had to be returned yesterday. My Edelbrock 600 and 800 are fine for street driving but have vacuum secondaries. The drag racers say to step up to a 750 Holley DP but I am concerned that I would loose throttle response which is not an issue with them. I checked out the new cheaper Summit 750 but there are too many proprietary parts and few tuning options for that carb and I may be adding a roots type supercharger this summer.

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A super charger installed on that engine will require a great deal more flow capacity in a carb,than a n/a application will require, generally a vacume secondary holley 750cfm works really well on almost all 350-383 sbc engine, applications and vacume secondaries may help the responsiveness once its correctly tuned.

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A super charger installed on that engine will require a great deal more flow capacity in a carb,than a n/a application will require, generally a vacume secondary holley 750cfm works really well on almost all 350-383 sbc engine, applications and vacume secondaries may help the responsiveness once its correctly tuned.

 

 

I was unhappy with both the Holley Street Avenger 670 (defective and sent back) and the 770 replacement. Could never get the off idle hesitation out of either. I have access to a 750 Holley with vacuum secondaries that I will try out.

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I was unhappy with both the Holley Street Avenger 670 (defective and sent back) and the 770 replacement. Could never get the off idle hesitation out of either. I have access to a 750 Holley with vacuum secondaries that I will try out.

 

 

On HOLLEYS, IN many cases the off idle hesitation is a badly adjusted accelerator pump or a accelerator pump that’s too small, low fuel pressure,low fuel volume,the wrong float level, the wrong power valve or an ignition advance curve that needs work. A few basic tests and reading spark plugs, helps as does having decent tools like a timing light and a/f ratio meter or a IR temp gun, and a vacume gauge, fuel pressure gauge, compression tester,ETC.

Having experiance and knowing how to find vacume leaks, badly adjusted valves and knowing how to degree in a cam won,t hurt either.

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=773&p=1123#p1123

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Hey grumpy I hope you can poing me in the right direction. I have 3/8 hard pipe i need to convert to an fittings can this be done with a female flare nut? If so where can I buy some my brain hurts from looking

 

are you refering to plumbing pipe like cast iron,3/8" NP thread type pipe, or fuel line tubeing? (that can be flared?)

 

if its pipe thread, you can screw an adapter fitting into a double female collar between the two

 

http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/products.php?prod=77

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http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=OTC%2D6503&N=700+4294909979+115&autoview=sku

 

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/index.html

 

http://www.toolfetch.com/tube-flaring-tools.shtml

 

http://www.autorepairmanuals.biz/site/573683/product/MTC71400

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=211

 

Heres some tools that might help, but before you go spending money on flare tools you might want to know that most hydraulic supply stores can fabricate really nice fuel lines with AN connectors at very reasonable prices if you measure things carefully.

 

"Grumpy, theoretically, what is the maximum horse power that a -6AN fuel line can support? "

 

Meaning -6 all the way from the tank to the pump and from the pump to regulator, regulator to carb. Is there a point at which the -6AN fuel line will not support XX HP, regardless of the pump used?

 

Thanks,

 

Phil

 

Ive seldom used fittings and lines that small,on anything I intended to race,seriously (usually use 8AN) so I called the tech guys at EDELBROCK and at RUSSELL, both tech guys felt that if everything was optimal you could probably get to 600 hp with the correct pumps, and ,filters and fuel pressure regulators

tech.jpg

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How much would a t really effect fuel flow compaired to a y fitting? A buddy of mine tried to tell me its very minimal and He wouldnt wast the money but what do you all think?

 

 

IVE USED THESE 1/2" tees in 1/2" ID fuel lines FOR YEARS, never had the least problems with CARB applications where fuel pressure is under 6 psi normally

 

barbed-fitting-tee.jpg

 

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/barb.html

 

don,t forget the clamps

 

THESE ARE BETTER

 

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an824.php

 

now ILL be the first guy to suggest #8 AN fittings are superior, especially on complete #8 AN lines but you won,t have problems in most applications under 600hp with either (T)

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