EMWHYR0HEN Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 I modded my steering shaft to clear my new engine mounts. I just wanted some assurance that the job I did is legit since these components play a crutial role in the steering and because I've never done this before. I re-used the stock U-joint at the rack and the slpine where the coupler is located. I'm using a 3/4'' U-joint with weld on ends and 3/4'' OD x .120 DOM round tube. The support bearing is 3/4'' and I made the bearing holder out of 1/8'' plate which is welded to the frame but is removable with 2 x 8mm bolts. I also got rid of the stock urethane coupler for a more direct feel. All the peices were pre heated first and then welded with my 110V mig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 You're a freaking machine. Stop doing stuff, honestly, you're making the rest of us look bad, or in some of our cases, worse. On topic, I'm confused why you made it extend forwards so far. It looks like it clears the engine mount by miles now, but the angulation on the u-joint along side the mount (on top of the rail) looks quite high. Did you do that to clear the planned headers or? I'm sorry I have nothing useful to contribute. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest buds260z Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Sweet!!! nice job good pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted October 9, 2008 Author Share Posted October 9, 2008 the angulation on the u-joint along side the mount (on top of the rail) looks quite high. Did you do that to clear the planned headers or? Dave That's exactly why. I tried to get as much clearence without exceding the u-joint manufacturers 30 degree angle limit. Nothing Binds and it spins smoothly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Nice. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 It looks pretty good to me (disclaimer...I am not an engineer, but I have serious steering mods on my z too) IF it runs smoothly turn to turn, make sure you try it with the wheels on the ground. This will give you some extra resistance, that may help you "feel" for irregularites in the smoothness, and will offer resistance to make sure that the extra effort used to steer, does not make the geometry shift. Sorry, not much to add, Just thinking safety first. Scott. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaspendlove Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 looks good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zwannabe Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 nice welds sir Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted October 10, 2008 Author Share Posted October 10, 2008 It looks pretty good to me (disclaimer...I am not an engineer, but I have serious steering mods on my z too) IF it runs smoothly turn to turn, make sure you try it with the wheels on the ground. This will give you some extra resistance, that may help you "feel" for irregularites in the smoothness, and will offer resistance to make sure that the extra effort used to steer, does not make the geometry shift. Sorry, not much to add, Just thinking safety first. Scott. That's great advise I'll have to do that. Thanks Scott. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Very clean install. Welds look great! Be sure to get everything painted up so it doesn't develop any unsightly surface rust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Another thought that just occurred to me, is that when there is resistance (like you're in a ~1G turn and having to apply a fair bit of torque to the steering wheel to hold it steady) that maybe that vertically mounted rod end will end up wobbling from side to side? Something to do might be to lock the wheel in one position, somehow, then try to turn the steering wheel and get someone to observe how much (if at all) it flexes. I'm not trying to be a downer, but safety first. It might prove necessary to get a weld-in rod end and fabricate a small box that goes between the frame rail and the strut tower. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Looks great to me! It looks like we used the same U-Joint too! I went a little different with mine as I already had holes drilled for Alsil's X-Member. Additionally after doing some math, I realized the stock shaft was pretty much the perfect length once cut and welded tot he new U-Jooint. Consequently I just reused the stock shaft to save work rewelding at the rack joint. We used an oil impregnated bushing to bump the OD of the shaft up at the rod end, it is keyed to prevent motion of the shaft up and down its axis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbpowered280z Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 heres a question that i have. the last poster did it, but why didnt the op use a rag joint? for what i remember, that joint reduces alot of bumpiness and decreases the amount of bumpsteer. thats just from what i learned from wyotech. more info? Lloyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 I think you may be misunderstanding the term bump steer. Steering wheel input has noting to do with bump steer. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bump_Steer Also, it looks to me like there is a rag joint in the first photo on the previous post. Though I could be mistaken. heres a question that i have. the last poster did it, but why didnt the op use a rag joint? for what i remember, that joint reduces alot of bumpiness and decreases the amount of bumpsteer.thats just from what i learned from wyotech. more info? Lloyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 I do not know what a rag joint is. I have deduced that you are talking about the rubber, urethane, or ABS coupler that is usually situated between the steering column and the start for the steering shaft. Mine is urethane and it is there so I do not turn my arms into goo. I assume the OP removed his because he is racing on relatively smooth surfaces and wants that much more steering feel. Is this what you are talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbpowered280z Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 ya, that steering coupler is what is called a rag joint. the op doesnt have one, thats why im asking about it. since you mentioned that he races, that makes sense. you dont need a coupler when racing. that would suck DD the car without one though. im thinking about converting mine from a rag-joint type to a modern double u joint. Lloyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 I think it is important to understand that the couple/rag joint call it as you will, does not change the rotational axis at all. That is to say, it is merely inline... it does not need to be a double U-Joint because there is no axial changes through the coupler as is. It merely soaks up inline vibrations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted October 21, 2008 Author Share Posted October 21, 2008 ya, that steering coupler is what is called a rag joint. the op doesnt have one, thats why im asking about it. since you mentioned that he races, that makes sense. you dont need a coupler when racing. that would suck DD the car without one though.im thinking about converting mine from a rag-joint type to a modern double u joint. Lloyd I originally had a plastic coupler but I removed it since I was re doing my shaft and more peace of mind. With a urethane or rubber coupler you loose a little steering response/feedback but I don't see how mounting it solid is any different than a plastic/metal coupller. i'm curious what you were told at wyotech about the function of a stock rubber steering coupler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTAZ Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 Myron; Wow. Nice welds. I don't think I've ever seen an ugly one in your posts. A thought: maybe consider securing all threaded fasteners with safety wire? I've seen other sources but here's a starting point http://www.aircraftspruce.com search for: safety wire Keep up the great work! Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 Yeah wouldnt a flexible steering coupler bushing only "absorb" the quite frequent bump or jar of the steering system. Instead of the steering wheel jerking a little in either direction the coupler just stretches/twists alittle, leaving the steering wheel in one position? (optimumly) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.