rookie z Posted October 25, 2008 Share Posted October 25, 2008 my jci crossmember will not fit between frame rails.has anyone had this problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
janaka Posted October 25, 2008 Share Posted October 25, 2008 I did.it had to be heated up , bent, cut and welded to fit for my car. my mechanic said it was probably the biggest PITA of the entire swap process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bucket240z Posted October 25, 2008 Share Posted October 25, 2008 I had the same problem also. Now does the whole mount not fit between the frame rails or does one side overlap the frame rail when attached to the transmission? That's what my problem was and i was able to muscle the cross member in. Pictures would help us get a better idea of the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevechode Posted October 25, 2008 Share Posted October 25, 2008 whats the crossmember going on? a t56 or 4l60. dont let it fool you, without beating the snot out of the trans tunnel on the passenger side, the crossmember wont fit on the 4l60. the servo and pan hits. my tunnel had to be moved a good inch or 2 in areas to claer the wider automatic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete280z Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 Have any of you guys given John a call to see what he has to say about that situation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevechode Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 Have any of you guys given John a call to see what he has to say about that situation? i did as soon as i found out it wouldnt fit. i sent him pics and all. then i started talking to some people on here that have put 4l60s in and they all had to beat the tunnels on 280's. but this problem isnt included in the manual from john because they used the t56. but will the crossmember just not fit between the rails OR will it fit between and not line up to the transmission? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 I found out that you had to remove more than just the ears to install the 4L60E into my 280. I just a few inches of the original transmission ear bracing and bent it it, but not a ton once the bracing was removed. The trans crossmember mounted up perfectly and didn't have any problems with it. I was the first one to order a JCI kit for the automatic and John said that the trans crossmembers are the same no matter which transmission is used. The difference is for the 240 vs 280, but not the transmission. Anyway, it's all in and I just installed the driveline today, as it was about an inch shorter than it should have been, so John took care of having it redone. All good now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudeboy Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 First, we need to know if you are swapping a LS# into a 240 or 280, (different mounting location for crossmember). Second, do you have a T56 or 4L60E? Finally, did John's car send you the correct transmission mount for your application- 240 Z? 280 Z? I will get over to the garage today and take some pictures of my set-up and hopefully the photos can answer some questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudeboy Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 I have this picture (I will take some better shots in the morning) 1977 280, 4L60E--The JCI cross member is light blue in picture and mounted between the frame rails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rookie z Posted October 26, 2008 Author Share Posted October 26, 2008 i dont have any pics yet ,but it is a 78 280z and i am going with the ls1 & 4l60e.the crossmember overlaps the frame and not just when mounted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudeboy Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 It sounds like you have the crossmember mount for the 240 Z. Post a picture of what you have to be sure. This is what I have -- 1977 280z with a 4L60E LS1/4L60 E from a WS6 Trans Am ( I have another shorter tranny cable linkage if I ever get time to get back in the garage !!!!!). There are two issues I have notice: 1. Having the incorrect mount for year Z and #2 Having to drill holes a bit to modify the 280 crossmsmber to fit the T56 or 4L60E. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wako240z Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 I did not like the trans mount in the JCI kit at all so I made my own. I did not like the idea of bolting in the crossmember to the floor on a 240. I re-used the ears from the old mounts and welded them up to the tunnel in the new location similar to the original setup. You can see the brace that was welded to the trans tunnel and the crossmember that holds the trans. The bottom of the crossmember is about the same height as the frame rails on the sides. The original trans tunel brace was not in the way so I left it in for some extra strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zgeezer Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 I found out that you had to remove more than just the ears to install the 4L60E into my 280. I just a few inches of the original transmission ear bracing and bent it it, but not a ton once the bracing was removed. The trans crossmember mounted up perfectly and didn't have any problems with it. I was the first one to order a JCI kit for the automatic and John said that the trans crossmembers are the same no matter which transmission is used. The difference is for the 240 vs 280, but not the transmission. Anyway, it's all in and I just installed the driveline today, as it was about an inch shorter than it should have been, so John took care of having it redone. All good now! The JTR manual is pretty explicit, they require the tunnel to be clearanced with a BFH . I installed a SBC 350 with the JTR and late 700R4. I used the JCI kit to mount my LM7 with 4l60E. The JCI kit's trans cross member is located EXACTLY where the JTR member was mounted. The JCI seems to mount engine and transmission higher into the tunnel than the JTR. I had to massage the tunnel a bit to gain additional clearance and I had to massage the floor pan to allow the passenger side rear corner of the AT pan to clear. It appears by tape measure that my JTR driveline can be used with the JCI kit. I'll know in a week or so when I hoist it into the car for a trial fit. The tape measure seems to think it'll fit. g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
worknprog Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 I bought mine a couple of months ago and it apears to be about a 1/4 inch to big to fit between the frame rails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rookie z Posted October 27, 2008 Author Share Posted October 27, 2008 dudeboy , that looks just like what i have ,but i will take sum pics when i get off tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rookie z Posted November 2, 2008 Author Share Posted November 2, 2008 thanks for all of the input ,i found the ploblem.i had more cutting to do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 Digging up an old thread..... I got my LSx/4L60e combo in yesterday and today I noticed when I got underneath it to install the starter that there is no way I am going to get to my trans coolant fittings on the trans without some serious relieving of the passenger side trans tunnel/firewall. The servo cover is also making slight contact with the trans tunnel too. Others have mentioned the trans pan hitting too, although I haven't noticed that happening (yet). I am using the JTR's crossmember and JCI's LSx mount kit. The JCI manual didn't mention anything about beating the trans tunnel prior to install or I would of completely done it before installing the motor/trans...... The trouble is I don't wanna pull the motor and trans back out to do it. Luckily I think I can use a stud welder (used for body work) and a slide hammer from the inside of the car (no carpet atm) to pull the corner away to allow enough room to get to the coolant fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.