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MSA Radiator 4 V8


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How much does it cost compared to the OEM GM radiator? Aluminum in and of itself isn't a big deal, the OEMs use it all the time now. Aluminum side tanks MIGHT be an issue but if it's mounted well you should be fine IMO.

 

Figure the OEM and racing aluminum radiators go for about $180 or so. What will you be doing for a fan?

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Guest Anonymous

I donno, its like 395.00 plus a 85.00 radiator inlet that goes into the top radiator hose (which are probably half that or less from Moroso). Pretty pricey unit. As Jim said the OEM radiators (I.E. Camaro as JTR suggest) are made to operate for a long time. I know the aluminum must be mounted more carefully to reduce vibration but with a little care should work ok. I guess we'll all know more after a while when more Z's have run the aluminum and we get to see what the long term effect is on them. I know JTR mentions staying away from them, but being as I just bought an aluminum one, I guess I'll find out first hand if Mike Knell was right in that comment or not. The welds on this one are beautifully tig'ed and seem pretty strong.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Well, I know that I saw a unit just like mine in a race car that runs circle track here. It had NO rubber at all, they just laid that puppy on the steel and let it eat - I was shocked. Apparently the radiator doesn't have problems with this in their car and I even noted it was sitting on an edge. However I also noted that they trash radiators fairly often in accidents so maybe it never runs long enough to get torn up. They know how to TIG too icon_smile.gif

 

But some of the S10 mounts from GM that JTR recommends. In my case they ONLY fit the top and not over the tanks but they would probably fit the GM OEM unit well. They are high quality silicone and less than $7 apiece so certainly worth the expense. The OEM GM radiator is supposedly like $180 from some of the online places. If my car were a daily driver and I was concerned about the all aluminum units the GM radiator is exactly what I'd go for. I'd sooner eat worms than pay nearly $400 for a copperbrass unit. icon_eek.gif

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Guest nosz350

We've ran a griffin radiatorfor seven years in a dirt car,it is a little bent but does not leak.We all so have a S-10 with one in it, it's got to be at least3-4 years old.And now i've got one in my z-car. THERE GREEEAT!!

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What's the concern with all aluminum? The OE style aluminum cores/plastic tanks ARE a replacement item as the epoxied plastic/aluminum joints eventually fail. Doesn't happen fast but it does come up. Rad shops see this routinely and I've seen it on our '86 camaro. All aluminum has fine welds all around, just mount it decent and it's no different. Just improved cooling and lightweight. A fine rad shouldn't exceed $200US IMO unless you buck up for larger tubes (1.25 or 1.5") for some Xtreme application. Griffin is priced this way and Howed as well I believe. Top mounts can be one simple angle or U bracket just a few inches wide to stop if from lifting off if your nitro hiccups icon_biggrin.gif is all. Gravity takes care of the rest. OEM typically has 2 or 3 TINY rubber snubs under that LARGE top plate which makes it deceptive AIR. I didnt' want to hide my kewl rad icon_smile.gif

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Guest Anonymous

I agree with you all. I was refering to Mike Knell's blurp in the JTR manual about aluminum radiators. I think since the material was pretty dated, that Mike may have had some experience with a older aluminum radiator of questionable quality and perhaps that was his experience with one. Personally, I think race breed parts tend to have a large degree of cushion on reliability. The Howe radiator I have uses like a 22-24lb cap which seems higher than I remember for the average brass unit, but then again its been like a zillion years since I had to buy a cap for a car.

My own opinion is, if you keep clean anti-freeze in the system and change it from time to time, then it should last as long as any other radiator, theres no difference, if anything the aluminum furnace brazed core is probably stronger than lead solder and brass cores.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Yeah, I caught his blurb about aluminum radiators and had to stop and think myself. I spoke to a radiator guy who HATES the epoxied end tanks since he can't fix some of them. Depends on the manufacturer - Fords no, GMs yes I think he said.

 

All aluminum can be welded up if it breaks within reason. Mike's comment being the only thing that would push me towrds the OEM stuff in a daily driver since you KNOW that stuff is made to last - hence my OEM starter icon_smile.gif

 

The 22+lb rating for the cap - now THAT made me stop and think. Thgat's like DOUBLE what a street car normally runs. I know this raises the boiling temp so I gritted my teeth and got a high rated cap from Moroso. Why are these "race only" caps and why is th epressure so much higher? I see no harm in running a lower pressure honestly but I wanted the best cooling I could get. Water/glycol/Water Wetter will be going in mine after it's broken in. Straight water for break-in just in case. icon_rolleyes.gif

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Guest Anonymous

Yeah, thanks for confirming that, I remember caps being maybe 12-16lbs max, but 22-24 kinda had me worried about my heater core, maybe I'm being paranoid. I may chicken out and put a cap with less pressure, as you say I doubt it would have any problems outside of boiling temp being a bit lower. And if it pisses a little coolant (unlikely, it hasn't done it yet even with the stock radiator) my nifty red summit catch bottle will take care of it... icon_smile.gif

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Another vote for a lower pressure cap!

 

Put a 16 psi one on. The heater core, nor the heater valve was not designed for that kind of pressure. Heck, I don't know what the standard heater and rad hoses will do with that pressure. They'd work, but for how long?

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Guest Anonymous

Thanks Gents, well do. Appreciate the info, taking a heater core out is about as fun as a sigmoidoscopy. (Been there done that, whew... is all I can say) icon_eek.gif

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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I ran the 24# cap they recommend for the Grifin and promtly blew out my new heater core... Unless you bypass the core, use a lower rated (16#) cap... It isn't worth the headache to run that high of a cap..

 

Mike icon_eek.gif

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Wait, you've done which one? Taking the heater core out, or having nurse Ratchet ram the sigmoidoscope up your anus? Sick inquiring minds want to know! Let's start a new thread!

 

Sorry, Lone, I just couldn't resist icon_biggrin.gif

 

David

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Guest Fast Frog

Lone:

 

You don't have to take the dash off to get to the heater core(on the early Zs). But you do have to take out the heater fan and disconnect hosing from the switching unit mounted behind the fan against the fire wall.

 

 

(PS: You're sick, DavyZ icon_biggrin.gif )

 

[ June 05, 2001: Message edited by: Fast Frog ]

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Guest Anonymous

Thanks Rick, appreciate that info, I had visualized it would have had to have the dash out. Thats good to know. I'm sure when I least expect it, it'll go out on me. I had one go out once on a chevy II, what was funny was that I filling the radiator, and filling the radiator and filling the radiator (infinity!) and then finally wondered how it could hold so much. Haha, both floorboards were now a pool, if I was'nt so mad at the time I would have laughed.. Funny thinking back on it now...

 

Davy, no strain, trust me, nearly everyone after they hit 45 will probably at one time or other get the wrath of the scope (or worse, and trust me there is..). I just was fortunate ( icon_mad.gif ) enough to get to do all this a little earlier in life. I joke about it, there are worse things.. (umm, well maybe dying but I havn't tried that yet (who knows maybe its really cool), and maybe prison and tossing salad (absolutely not cool), but I definitely ain't going there.) icon_smile.gif

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Guest Anonymous

Both... And if you have anyone mention a sigmoid, avoid as much as possible (unless theres reason, cancer isn't something to play with (no cancer for me, another intestinal desease) icon_smile.gif ).

 

Just to give you an idea, remove the heater hose from your Datsun V8 Z. Imagine it twice as long and about half the size. Visualize where its going... 'nuff said.. icon_mad.gif

 

icon_smile.gif,

 

Lone

 

PS: I havn't had the heater core out of the Datsun, but I had the dash out and know you'd be pulling the dash to get reasonable access to get it out... Which would make me icon_mad.gif

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