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At my wits end please help


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1978 280z and number one cylinder doesn't fire and number two comes and goes. I have good compression in all the cylinders, I have spark at new plugs. I have new wires cap and rotor too, I have good fuel pressure from the fuel pump, new injectors, new injector connectors and I went through the entire warness with my ohm meter at the ecu conection and I even tried another ecu. I used one of those lights at the ecu connectors (the name escapes me) too. Could there be something wrong in the distributer? my logic tells me that if the distributer was bad I would have problems with all the cylinders. I don't know what to think now. Please help.

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Give us a little more information. What did you get for the compression test on all 6 cylinders, what was the FP at? , what is your timing at? Anything you can give us will help. Usually problems that come and go like that are due to wiring. You may have a temporary break or short to ground somewhere. How did you test witch cylinders are cutting out?

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1978 280z and number one cylinder doesn't fire and number two comes and goes. I have good compression in all the cylinders, I have spark at new plugs. I have new wires cap and rotor too, I have good fuel pressure from the fuel pump, new injectors, new injector connectors and I went through the entire warness with my ohm meter at the ecu conection and I even tried another ecu. I used one of those lights at the ecu connectors (the name escapes me) too. Could there be something wrong in the distributer? my logic tells me that if the distributer was bad I would have problems with all the cylinders. I don't know what to think now. Please help.

Trigger wheel is only found in turbo dizzys. I would suspect the ignition module or the stator assembly inside the dizzy.

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first

check the most obvious, carefully verify that two of the plug wires in the firing order are not out of sequence.

next

verify your getting spark at the plug by starting the engine with the suspect plug wire connected to a phillips screw driver rather than the sparkplug, and remember to only hold the plastic, but allow the steel part of the screw driver to be about 1/16" from the engine so it can potentially arc to the block verifying your getting spark. the spark should be BLUE not red or yellow in appearance.if the sparks yellow or red verify the coil polaritys correct and the voltages is at about 12-13 volts (same as the battery) and check the engine ground is good.

next

if your getting spark from that screw driver test,replace that spark plug, if your not, test the plug wire with an ohms meter it should read UNDER 400-500 ohms per foot of length.in most cases but,(compare its resistance to several other wires on your engine, if its markedly differant theres a big problem and ID replace all the plug wires)

next

Replace the cap and rotor if they are suspect, thier cheap and if they have over 65-80k your probably going to need one anyway soon.

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