Mikelly Posted April 14, 2000 Share Posted April 14, 2000 Two problems: Installed the new starter relay and I'm still having heat soak or some kinda problem...I'm perplexed... Thing starts increadibly fast when it is cold...Here is what I have: Optra Sealed battery, Summit Bulk head units for the floor. 1/0 Wire for the ground and hot. Ground back at the rear of the car. Hot running the length of the car to the relay which is on the fenderwell. I have a HOT SHOT 30amp booster jumped in there at that point and then 1/0 wire running to the starter. The issue is that the starter solenoid is getting hot, as is the starter terminal and wire...Is this a ground issue??? HELP!!!!!!! Problem number 2: New fuel pressure gauge is in and working great. Check the oil and detect a heavy smell of gas.... Change oil... start car and when I rev the motor blue smoke comes out of the pipes even with the car pretty lean. Regulator is working like a charm BTW.. Anyway, this motor has about 500 miles on it... are the rings toast? Will it clear up? This is twince in three weeks that this motor has been washed down with gas due to the regulator issue. Any thoughts would be much help! Thanks! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RON JONES Posted April 14, 2000 Share Posted April 14, 2000 How bad did you wash down the rings?Also how much presure are you sending to the carb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest racerzs Posted April 14, 2000 Share Posted April 14, 2000 A few questions or things to look at: What kind of initial timing do do you have, and are you sure the mechanical wieghts are returning home via the springs? how close is the exuast to the starter, and if real close have you any sheilding? I assume you are using a ford silinoid for your relay? I am not familiar with the Hot shot booster, what is this? How is the engine mounted? rubber mounts? Do you have a ground strap from the engine to the chassis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted April 14, 2000 Share Posted April 14, 2000 Mike, Run the 0/1 gage wire from the Neg battery terminal to the starter mounting bolt. Any car and especially a unibody makes a poor conductor for those distances (battery in the back). I bet that fixes it. Of course, make sure you put a big engine to chassis ground strap on (and probably run one directly to the harness ground lug on the passsenger fenderwell just above the harness). Ground is just as important as a positive cable. Learned this on hotrodder.com a few months back from the old(er) timers. Sorry, no ideas on the fuel in the oil, except when you had the hi fuel pressure with the old regulator, you probably sent alot of fuel down the cylinder walls (leaking out the carb, down the intake, etc.) Good Luck, Pete ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted April 14, 2000 Author Share Posted April 14, 2000 The regulator would sometimes hold correct pressure, and because the gauge was partially obstructed by the ramiar box (New regulator has a port on it...Problem solved) I couldn't see it dropping or moving eradically when I would have the hood up... The wash down of the rings has happened twice, but the 1st time the motor was not running, and I pulled the plugs, drained the oil and blew out the cylinders with compressed air. This time, it had been running (Not driven, but sitting in the drive) for maybe a total of 15 minutes.. I will have to check the timing (Forget what it was set to), but I remember when we set the distributor up (MSD Billet Unit) we made sure the springs and weights were dialed in properly per MSD. What Should initial timing be at? Pete, I'll run a 0/1 wire up from the battery to the chassis and see if this takes care of it. I do have to 0/1 straps from the back of the motor up to the strut towers. The car was running all of 15 minutes...cut it off to restart it for the fuel pressure check (Still checking the pump, to see if it was part of the fuel problem) and when I tried to restart it, the wire at the starter and the solenoid was hot to the touch... I'm going nuts!!!!! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted April 14, 2000 Author Share Posted April 14, 2000 Fuel Pressure is set to 7psi. To high? To low? 750 double pumper BG. Of course when I pulled the plugs to blow out any excess gas, the plugs were black and wet with gas, so I'm not 100% sure the carb is dialed in because of the eradic fuel pressure I was getting....6-15psi was the range I saw the day I called it quits and replaced it... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited April 14, 2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYRON Posted April 14, 2000 Share Posted April 14, 2000 Mike what starter are you using? I know that a starter that gets a too hot will drag because of the tolerances are too tight. I have a factory starter and it is so close to the header flange that i had to grind the flange flat on one the side so i could get 1/16th of clearance for the little "nipple" that sticks off the back of the GM starter. My car starts fine all the time. I have about 600 miles of start/stop/go/stop/fix/start/go/race/stop /start and so on. I am using header wrap and you can actually grab the header after e the ingine is running, you obviously do not want to leave it there for long,but you do not have to worry about severe burns. It is expensive and i know that you do not want to hide the fine looking ceramic coated headers. Maybe if you wrap the bottom portion that is close to the starter... I bet this will solve your problem.... Myron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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