260Z + RB25DET S2 motor = badazz 260ZR and some ?'s

[Ed260Z]

cars looking great. I see how you got the Tach working, but how did you get the speedo to work? I want to keep all the stock gauges in my Z.

[rayaapp2]

I have yet to this date... 4 months deep, been able to get on a dyno for a base line.

 

I have tackled the leaky sparks from the coils

I have concord the stock rubber turbo inlet hose that tried to go through my turbo

and I have come out victorious.

 

I had to hand fab an aluminum intake for the turbo and mount a new filter. My K&N filter collapsed on in itself. I literally filed an 2.5"-3" adapter to accept the BOV recirc pipe. So Ive added My SAFC II to the car and im running that for now as if it wasnt there. So its just a monitor. I also installed my A:F gauge today. I still want to get a Boost gauge, but that can wait.

 

Things are going well for the car and me.

 

Its very fun to drive.

 

I have to wait my turn to get it up on the dyno and hope there is time, so there is no telling when i will be able to get it done. That sounds pretty bleak, but itll happen. Basically I have to wait until the time is right if I want to do it for free.

 

In the mean time Ive made some new problems. Hard launching has blown out my KYB GR2 rear shocks... They are 3 years old or so. I also bought the parts to build the new trans mount and tuck my exhaust up better so I can lower the car back down. My plan is to if things fall through this weekend, put it all together and maybe even get to the replacing the rear shocks with KYB 4 way adjustables.

 

Ray

[Guest rb240]

The R32 RB26DETT cams are not equipped with VVT, I dont think the later ones are either. The 26 cams are "adjustable" but only through a labor intensive shimming process. The reason the RB26 has solid lifters is because of the aggressive ramp angle on the cams. They are too steep for hydraulic lifters. You could put hydraulic lifters beneath them, but they would likely leak down and result in reduced lift/duration and consequently lower power.

[rayaapp2]

Well Ive worked out most of my issues. The car is running pretty good. I still have a hickup hiding up past 75% throttle and over 5500rpm. I have to get the ignition and fuel systems on a oscope to determine what is going on as it doesnt show up on the A:F meter.

 

Ive been using the BlaZt Nissan Data Scan software. Its pretty cool. So to add to the ignition timing setting, I used the Nissan Data Scan software to put make put the ignition into an active test so I could set it. Basically you need to use this or the Nissan Consult to set the timing CORRECTLY. Once the ignition has been set as active you can run "active" tests aka set the timing. Unlike scan tools where you get processed data Nissan Data scan and Consult both give you the raw Ignition timing. I confirmed it with an inductive timing light on a piece of spark plug wire to the number one cylinder. I have the car at 15*.

 

I re-did up my transmission mount.

I had the car up in the air to R&R the rear brakes. Try to restain yourself about the exhaust welds... I ran out of Argon.

 

 

[rayaapp2]

Its been a while since Ive made an update.

 

I have purchased several things in the past 4 months.

 

I resurfaced my flywheel with Cascar for $35

Exedy Clutch from PDQ transmissions in Sac ~$350

SS Performance Coils from Raw Brokerage ~$400+

Nismo Fuel Pressure Regulator from Tidus Nissan aka NismoParts.com $118

Bosch 300LPH Fuel pump from 034MotorSports $200

1976 280Z Fuel Tank with -8 AN pickup from StealthZ $50

APEXi Turbo Timer new from ebay $80

NGK copper plugs @ .030"

 

I found that the Pilot Bearing and the Throw Out Bearing could be used from the L series setup. If it makes a difference the pilot bearing and throw out bearing where from a clutch kit for my 83 280zx turbo.

 

The car is driving great!

 

I also started to upgrade the brakes.

84 Toyota 4 piston calipers installed

R32 master cylinder and booster waiting to get installed.

280zx rear calipers/rotors waiting to get installed.

need to buy new brakes lines and rear caliper brackets

 

 

I have also been building a new intake manifold.

I purchased a Freddy manifold. It arrived Polished after I ordered the Raw Cast. So that has been a set back.

I have a modified Q45 90mm throttle body. I purchased a few silicone couplers for the IC from 034MotorSports. 1 3.5" 45* coupler, 1 3.5" T tube with 1.25" T for air regulator/IAC, 1 3.5" to 3" 90* coupler, 1 3" to 2.5" 90* coupler. I have been doing trade work with 034MotorSports, so Ive only paid about $120 for all the pipe an couplers so far. It would have been $30 ea plus the piping @ $50-$60. Ive got the polished Freddy for sale. Hopefully someone will pick it up. I will turn around and purchase the raw cast one or just give in and buy the Greddy.

Ray

[rayaapp2]

I had the guys at school dyno the car again with the new stuff listed above.

 

264HP peak

215torque during the same run... I made 236ft/lbs on an earlier run with 261hp.

 

I bought the Genuine Greddy intake for the car and sold the knockoff Freddy intake. Im going to get that on soon. Im going to start saving for a power FC with the boost controller solenoid next. Early next year hopefully.

[rayaapp2]

4/29/10 UPDATE

 

Stepping it up

 

I had some Rain Water issues. The wind shield gasket started to leak and let water drain onto my harness on the passenger side. I had the window wipers go cookoo and then something strange happened and the harness fried out. One of the power wires down on the fuse box gave up the smoke inside.

 

I spent a few months rebuilding the whole engine bay and dash harness. I took the time to go through and make my harness look like a factory Nissan harness. That is all finished in time for me to do some more electrical work now.

 

Im finally installing the GReddy intake manifold.

I purchased the APEXi Power FC, FC Datalogit, and an Innovate Motor Sports LC-1 wideband O2 as well. Im busy paying other bills right now and forced to thin out my extra parts(even the ones I want to keep) so my funds are ~zilch. When things level out I still want to install the APEXi PFC boost controller(~$300) and something else very important.

 

Take a look at my progress. See if you can spot the thing that is still in the pictures that needs to be upgraded... HINT: Its not any of the missing parts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Spot it?

 

 

 

It has been a good part until now. For running around this past year and a half it has got the job done even in really bad heat. If your stock I still stand by this debated part. Im stepping it up and this will be the next replaced part. Still havent figured it out? how about another hint: Im going with a Champion unit.

 

 

I see more dyno runs in my future.

[rayaapp2]

-GReddy intake manifold NEW $530 shipped!!! got a deal!!!

-APEXi Power FC & Datalogit $700 shipped

-Cobalt boost guage $67 shipped

-wideband LC-1 Innovate $200 shipped

 

I will have other misc parts for the intake swap and such shortly.

 

 

 

Ray

[rayaapp2]

after seeing the 1971 in this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/75973-my-71-240z-w-rb25det-almost-ready/

I set out to copy the throttle body install. Hiding the throttle cable underneath just seems like a brilliant idea. The only thing down there is the lower radiator hose and the thermostat housing.

 

here is my mock up.

 

I routed the throttle cable under the intake next to the block and out just above the thermostate housing. Im going to make a cable mount that attaches to the stud under the upper radiator hose on the head that mounts the intake.

[rayaapp2]

 

 

 

 

Almost completely mocked up. There is some incompletness going on at the Turbo Housing intake up to the MAF and all the related recirc stuff.

Edited May 2, 2010 by rayaapp2

[rayaapp2]

Greddy Intake manifold install:

 

Why is this stupid manifold so tricky to install? It seams so straight forward. And yet I have hit several stumbling blocks. I managed to re-route all the coolant and idle air control hoses. I re-routed the wire harness under the manifold with the throttle cable and a few of the vacuum/pcv hoses. It took some Finagling to route it under the manifold cleanly and so that it didnt snag on the oil cooler or other lines down there. I can still change the oil filter and I think that is what counts.

 

Anyway the biggest snag I hit was the TPS sensor. If you have read through this entire thread then you know I have an Series 2 engine setup. My TPS is the newer style. I happen to have an S1 style TPS around, an extra S2 TPS, and the TPS for a 89 KA24e. I have the FSM for my a 94 ECR33 which is the exact year my engine is from.

I have no idea what you guys are doing with your TPS installs. Both my S2 sensors check out according to the FSM with FLYING COLORS. They are to the specs accurate. According to the FSM they are to be back probed with ignition on engine off and they have voltage readings to be measured.

Here is where it gets tricky. I have as most other assumed that the difference between the S1 and S2 setups was the ignition and maybe some slight mapping in the programming. Well the 1 S1 TPS I have doesnt correlate well with the S2. Remember that the S2 only uses the TPS on the sensor. The S1 uses both the sensor and the switch. Well I busted out my meter and took some measurements.

 

I drew up some pictures of the connectors which I will not share here, but I was able to reference the 2 styles of connectors that way. For comparison I bench tested the 4 tps sensors using my meter.

For your purposes I will compare them with a 1 , 2 , and 3 for each respective pin.

 

S2

1-2 idle 5.25kΩ

1-2 wot 136.3Ω

2-3 idle 257Ω

2-3 wot 532kΩ

1-3 total 5.28kΩ

 

S2

1-2 idle 5.02kΩ

1-2 wot 70Ω

2-3 idle 290Ω

2-3 wot 5.16kΩ

1-3 total 5.09kΩ

 

S1

1-2 idle 290Ω

1-2 wot 9.55kΩ

2-3 idle 9.54Ω

2-3 wot 290Ω

1-3 total 9.44kΩ

 

KA24e

1-2 idle 8.83kΩ

1-2 wot 124Ω

2-3 idle 324.4Ω

2-3 wot 8.90kΩ

1-3 total 8.76kΩ

 

Just in case you havent realized yet what the problem is: The S1 and S2 style TPS will not swap back in forth on their respective throttle body mounts. So if your planning on putting a Greddy intake onto your S2 setup and you want to install the 90mm Nissan throttle body from the famed Infiniti Q45 your going to either A. swap on the Infiniti or other random early style Nissan TPS and call it good or B do what Im doing ???

 

I have seen the 96 Q45 non TCS TB and I guess its a direct replacement for the S2 throttle body. So Im going to now be searching for one of those. The other TPS sensors will not that I can see make suitable replacements.

[rayaapp2]

I have the final Answer for S2 RB25DET owners and Q45 throttle body installs.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Q45-Throttle-Body-Install-t308397.html&pid=5089668&mode=threaded&start=20#entry5089668

 

The 96 Infiniti Q45 Throttle body has the corresponding S2 TPS.

 

 

On another note:

 

APEXi 415-A001 Boost Controller Kit:

For those of us with the APEXi Power FC the 415-A001 kit is the add on kit we can get to control our boost level. Whats in this kit?

hmm... Well I see a wire harness, a Denso 3.5 BAR MAP sensor, a stepper motor, and some bits and pieces.

Isnt that the very same Denso MAP sensor and stepper motor(aka boost valve) that is used in the APEXi AVC-R stand alone boost controller??? Why yes I believe it is! Im pretty sure the AVC-R is readily available used and new here in the US. I have found the replacement boost valve and sensor online for just over $100 for both. So then why is the kit 415-A001 listed for no less than $300 new anywhere? Im not really sure... In fact I find it rather sad that used kits are listed for $300-$600 depending where in the world they are. At least you can find the old AVC-R kit in good condition for under $200. Im seriously considering buying the sensor and valve or the AVC-R and searching out the connectors needed to make my own harness. It really can be any worse than wiring the RB into a 260Z.

[WizardBlack]

I have the final Answer for S2 RB25DET owners and Q45 throttle body installs.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Q45-Throttle-Body-Install-t308397.html&pid=5089668&mode=threaded&start=20#entry5089668

 

The 96 Infiniti Q45 Throttle body has the corresponding S2 TPS.

 

 

On another note:

 

APEXi 415-A001 Boost Controller Kit:

For those of us with the APEXi Power FC the 415-A001 kit is the add on kit we can get to control our boost level. Whats in this kit?

hmm... Well I see a wire harness, a Denso 3.5 BAR MAP sensor, a stepper motor, and some bits and pieces.

Isnt that the very same Denso MAP sensor and stepper motor(aka boost valve) that is used in the APEXi AVC-R stand alone boost controller??? Why yes I believe it is! Im pretty sure the AVC-R is readily available used and new here in the US. I have found the replacement boost valve and sensor online for just over $100 for both. So then why is the kit 415-A001 listed for no less than $300 new anywhere? Im not really sure... In fact I find it rather sad that used kits are listed for $300-$600 depending where in the world they are. At least you can find the old AVC-R kit in good condition for under $200. Im seriously considering buying the sensor and valve or the AVC-R and searching out the connectors needed to make my own harness. It really can be any worse than wiring the RB into a 260Z.

 

You are spot on. If you search around on the AEM EMS forums, you will find that there are other suppliers that sell the same boost control solenoid. In fact, last I checked, people found industrial supply catalogues that had essentially the same part in them. The solenoid is used for industrial clamps/jigs/etc that require electronically activated pneumatics. That PFC kit is expensive because it is from Japan and rare; that's all. Caveat Emptor.

[rayaapp2]

POWER FC - FAQ by Paulr33 @ SAU

 

I found this yesterday and I found it HIGHLY helpful.

 

 

I was searching for the APEXi part numbers when I ran across this FAQ on Google.

 

 

Map Sensor:

499-X001

 

Valve:

499-X003

 

Harness:

49C-A002

 

Exerpts from Paulr33's website

 

The optional boost controller kit for the Power FC consists of the pressor sensor, pressure sensor harness and solenoid. The solenoid should be plumbed between your manifold and the wastegate actuator (internal wastegate setup). For external wastegate setup it should be plumbed between the manifold and your external wastegate pressure line. The pressure sensor should be plumbed in parrallel with the factory MAP sensor which is used by your standar boost guage.

 

The solenoid has two labels on it, you should match them accordingly

 

COM line should goto wastegate actuator

NO line should goto intercooler piping

 

It can be T'eed into the plumbing with its included T piece fitting.

 

Boost Controller Kit Type #1

3 wire plug, Solenoid runs to stock boost control loom on stock ECU wiring loom.

3 wires in Apexi loom are for Map sensor - Signal, Ground and Power

 

Boost Controller Kit Type #2

5 wire plug, Solenoid runs to map sensor harness which runs to Boost Controller port on PowerFC

3 wires are for Map sensor - Signal, Ground and Power. 2 Wires are for Solenoid Power and Ground

 

Skyline RB25DET PowerFC and GTR RB26 Uses Type #1

 

 

The pressure sensor has the main wiring harness directly attached to itself, one end plugs into the 5 pin port on the PowerFC. The solenoid piggybacks off the Pressure Sensor wiring harness which leads to the PowerFC connector port. The wiring is shown below.

 

MAP Sensor

Red = Positive

Black = Negative (earth)

Green = Signal

 

Solenoid

Pink = Positive

Black = Negative

 

When the solenoid wiring meets with the Map Sensor harness the colours for the Soneoid change as follows;

 

Pink = Red

Black = Brown

 

Boost Control Kit - Parts Inventory

Boost Control Kit - Complete Kit

Boost Control Kit - MAP Sensor

Boost Control Kit - Solenoid

Apexi PowerFC - Plug Layout

 

 

Boost display without the Boost Control Kit?

By default as the PowerFC will not show boost pressure as it has no method of reading it in via the stock ECU loom. If you purchase a suitable map sensor and connect it to the PowerFC boost control kit port then the hand controller will display boost pressure. The boost control kit uses a Denso map sensor which is part #DPS 310 2000a - Denso 949940 6270 5V and the wiring loom cable/plug can be brought from Apexi which is around $40 AU. The cable is listed as the 3pin boost control harness. Nengun has this listed under Electronics -> Apexi -> D Jetro Option Parts

 

Alternatively below is the pin out diagram for the Boost Control Kit port. This is for the 3 pin version only. I am unsure of the pinouts for the 5 pin version.

1 = Voltage+

2 = Signal

3 = Ground

 

I have done this on my car and it works correclty. I used the boost control kit harness ($30 new) and the Boost Control kit Map sensor. Connect them up using the supplied plugs & loom and plug it into the PowerFC Boost Control kit port. You don't need to enable the Boost Control Kit (under ETC, FUNCTION SELECT) for it to display boost and for BOST to work in ETC, SENSOR SW/CHECK

 

 

 

***********************************************************************************

 

 

Perhaps someone could tell me what the check valve on the boost valve line is for.

Maybe its a filter not a check valve?

 

 

On another note: I bought the wiring harness for $25 USD shipped. I bought a used AVC-R for $170. So Im still under $200 and I ended with the head unit and wiring harness for the AVC-R.

Edited May 11, 2010 by rayaapp2

[rayaapp2]

Just bought all my intercooler piping from 034motorsports

 

 

 

Will install tomorrow.

Im officially $10K deep for all costs of this car... only took me 8 years to spend it.

 

 

 

I also wanted to note that APEXi USA tried to give me the run around on buying the 415-A001 Kit components separately. They tried to say that there was more in the kit than what was there and that they wouldnt sell it in peices, then when I provided the part numbers they said they were available at an inflated price (more than the kit total). I purchased the Wire harness 3 pin for ~$25 dropped shipped from APEX integration and bought a ~$180 AVC-r shipped off of ebay instead. Total was ~$200.

Ray

Edited May 13, 2010 by rayaapp2

[rayaapp2]

Boost Control Valve

 

So I got my AVC-R in. Perhaps there was some truth to what APEXi USA was saying. The plug on the valve will not just plug into the R33 S2 plug on my car for the stock solenoid. I still feel like they were giving me the run around though.

 

Im not entirely convinced that this system was well designed. The boost valve vents to atmosphere. The instructions also say vent to atmosphere. The system is still MAF even if there is now a MAP sensor involved. All the information I have read leads me to believe the MAP sensor is not being used for A/F in a way that replaces the MAF. So Venting the valve to atmosphere seams like an A/F as well as emissions problem. As I understand it Japans emissions standards are more stringent that most of the US including good ol' Ca. Its a minor vacuum/boost leak, but it still plays a part on A/F calculation that the MAF cannot account for. The APEXi Power FC is like many systems here in Ca that are Off Highway Use Only so emissions were most likely not an issue to be addressed. Still the A/F calculation thing bothers me a little. I wish I could find some info about this system that actually states for a fact that it cross references the MAP for A/F calculation. Hopefully Ill find out when I plug it into my lap top and start going over all the perimeters and figuring out how to set it up.

[rayaapp2]

 

 

Getting there.

 

The old '82 200sx Radiator removed. PRC 24" X 19" Double Pass 3 core should arrive 5/17/10.

In all those silicone couplers I ordered one wrong, and the replacement will be here on Monday as well.

 

APEXi Power FC, Boost controller add on, and Innovate LC-1 wideband O2 have all been completely wired up.

As soon as I get the coupler and radiator in Ill be able to start some basic tuning.

 

 

And perhaps I have missed something else here: The BOV is still stock. What is that thing set for? Think it will take a bit more boost? How much?

Edited May 16, 2010 by rayaapp2

[rayaapp2]

 

Just for fun:

Its not everyday you see this... My 82 Datsun Diesel Maxima haulin the 71 521 trailer with a 71 521 pickup cab sitting on top of it...

[rayaapp2]

Intake and Radiator installed

 

 

 

I picked up a large roll of aluminum that Im planing on turning into a fan shroud and belly pan next.

[rayaapp2]

Apparently I broke the sender unit for the temp gauge while installing it into the new intake manifold.

 

BUT,

 

IT LIVES AGAIN

 

Videos and pictures are not far off in the future.