260Z + RB25DET S2 motor = badazz 260ZR and some ?'s

[RS Speed]

Looking good man, the engine bay is starting to come around

[rayaapp2]

Its been a while since Ive done anything with the car other than drive it.

It was time for some video and pictures:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Enjoy... I did

[badhabitZ]

hi - just tried so view your build thread a the beginning of this thread and all the images appear to have disappeared? or is it something at my end.

I'm about to start by RB25 build here in New Zealand would love to have a read about yours - nice car!

 

Cheers BH

[rayaapp2]

hi - just tried so view your build thread a the beginning of this thread and all the images appear to have disappeared? or is it something at my end.

I'm about to start by RB25 build here in New Zealand would love to have a read about yours - nice car!

 

Cheers BH

Sorry Guys, I moved about a year ago and my new ISP(and pretty much ONLY ISP available where i live) will not allow me to run Dynamic DNS so my personal server that was hosting everything is no longer available to WWW. I have opted instead to use Photobucket now.

I may have to check and see if I can edit the pictures in those old posts, but I think the edit button is locked. Will check.

Anyway PhotoBucket Album 260ZR

Edited July 1, 2011 by rayaapp2

[rayaapp2]

I have an Update for Hybridz

 

As some may have noticed my Turbo died. Its just under 100K miles. Thats not to bad for one of these units. I think they are rated at 60-80K miles. I bought the engine with 80K on it.

 

So here is the list of parts I have been collecting over the past 2 years. This is my excuse to install them.

 

Cometic MLS head gasket

Cometic MLS exhaust gasket

ARP Head Studs

Supertech Valve Spring Seals

Marshal non-oil filled fuel pressure gauge to replace the oil filled one that died from my underhood temps.

BD Proformance Turbo Cool Down Timer

Autometer 6144 Pyrometer kit

Nissan GTR Thermocouple that needs tested, but might be the K sensor I need to install into the downpipe for secondary sampling

Stock turbo in good shape low miles

New HKS wastegate actuator

Turbo rebuild kit by Kamak

14401-21U25 turbo gasket kit

Circuit Sports steel braided turbo lines, less oil pressure line

New XS Power divorced wastegate downpipe w/gaskets (gaskets are in okay shape, not perfect). 3" bellmouth style

6StarRacing stock mount header - IF AVAILABLE on order

new oil pressure sender

Waiting on Fidanza to return my adjustable cam gear.

 

Im a few parts short at the moment.

timing belt

idler pulley

thermostat 70*

 

 

Ive just pulled the head off. That took about 3.5 hours. That Greddy intake is a PITA to get loose from the head, forget about pulling it out of the car. I left the intake laying in the engine bay and yanked the head off. Next I need to plan out a way to carefully remove the valves, retainers, and springs so I can do the valve stem seals. There is a significant amount of carbon buildup in the combustion chambers and on top of the pistons. What interested me most was the fact that the tops of the pistons were definitely the worst, but the exhaust side of the piston was pretty bad as well, while the intake side of the domes are fairly clean. My cylinder walls are in good shape so the bottom end will be staying together for now.

 

I did spend about 3 hours yesterday polishing my valve covers. Basically I got bored. They look good, but I will likely get a bunch of these parts powder coated. I live 15min from the bay. My Greddy intake, valve covers, and a few other things are showing oxidation and its driving me nuts.

 

Parts in Sapphire Blue

6 Injector caps

Valve covers

3 piece timing cover

 

Parts in Gun Metal Grey

Intake manifold

Turbo Charger turbine heat shield

 

Thanks all for now. Will update as I get pictures of my progress.

Edited July 2, 2011 by rayaapp2

[rayaapp2]

Several months ago it looked like this

 

 

This is from the past 2 weeks until this afternoon:

 

 

 

 

 

Lots of carbon buildup.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am going to have a hell of a time trying to clean those exhaust valves. The have some tough buildup on them.

The chambers dont look to bad, but definitely have carbon deposits as well. Now I know why I had to pull timing back on the dyno.

 

Why am I constantly using cars in my garage as a shelf. Its like I dont know Im doing it until it looks like this:

 

 

Oh well, Thats all for today.

 

EDIT: Hey I just found my hat and sunglasses... and I didnt even have to go out to the garage and look.

Edited July 2, 2011 by rayaapp2

[70 Cam Guy]

Nice, I call that flat surface syndrome. It's ok because you at least have everything on a big towel or fender cover.

 

Was your turbo rebuilt stock or did they install steel wheels? A lot of guys down under get theirs high flowed for easy install

 

When I tore down my RB20's head, I gave it to a machine shop to install my valve stem seals. They pressure tested and boiled the whole head. It came out nicely and I think only charged a couple hours for everything.

[rayaapp2]

It was a low mileage Turbo that a shop installed one of those KamaK rebuild kits into and I purchased the Nissan gasket kit mentioned above to finish it off.

I did contact a Garrett distributor close to me and they quoted me $750 which isnt bad considering they just re-use the turbine and compressor housing and replace the center sections with new units, but that was out of my price range.

 

I will be making some phone calls on the 5th to see if I can get my head into a local shop at a reasonable price. Id like to get it tanked, surfaced and have the valves cleaned up.

[70 Cam Guy]

I'll tell you what my machine shop told me. They would have needed to make a jig to surface it because of the way the valve cover sealing surfaces are angled. If you got the MLS head gasket, they made need to surface it so the finish is appropriate for it. If you have a shop you know has already worked on RB's then you might be ok. I've heard differing opinions on MLS gaskets needing the correct surface finish on the block and head

 

[rayaapp2]

Well on the L series, I have run before with the MLS gasket it has been pretty critical that the surface be uber flat. HOWEVER, the MLS gaskets I have used on the L series are just that, multiple layers of steel. The Cometic gasket has a viton seal applied to some of its layers including the outermost layers which is why it looks black and not shiny metal. A completely uniform surface would be ideal, but small imperfections should be sealed by the viton coating. Larger imperfections would not be obviously, but you can probably gauge the difference. Some of the L series engines I have ran with MLS gaskets leak when cold and seal up as soon as its warmed up. The thinner gaskets tend to do this more because there is less crush I think to take up imperfections.

There are lots of twin cam heads out there with similar V style cam setups. I would think a good and well rounded machine shop would not have an issue setting up to surface it. I really doubt there is anyone in my area that has a clue what my engine is. They are few and far between unlike the central valley, Silicon valley, and all the east/North bay area where they seem to be prevalent. I will likely contact th machine shops I know are familiar with the L-series heads. I figure if they can properly work on the L head then they are probably qualified to work on the rb head. Ill find out I guess.

[rayaapp2]

Who is looking for a working shift boot?

 

Check out the Z31 shift boots. You will need to come up with a tunnel mount for the boot itself, but it will fit the shifter unlike the stock S30 boot.

 

I will be ordering one and giving it a try. I need to order an interior shift boot next.

 

Ray

[rayaapp2]

Anyone interested in dumping the traditional turbo count down timers?

Using a K type thermocouple(autometer kits use them with their pyro kits) and a Diesel specific cool down timer Im no longer on the count down system. The BD performance Cool Down Timer 2 can either be a counter timer OR if left as it comes out of the box it can utilize the thermocouple signal to **** the car off.

 

BD Cool Down Timer 2

 

Im waiting on some schematics from BD at the moment to determine some of the other functions.

Until then this is what I have come up with:

 

 

BTW, Brake pedal wire is attached to the - side of the switch, and the one called keep alive should go to your ignition fuse. It basically goes to the same spot as the Ign On source.

Edited July 11, 2011 by rayaapp2

[rayaapp2]

01151-00471 Rb Exh. Man. Studs list $2.99 sell $1.70 DISCONTINUED! FU Nissan

08912-8401A Nut Hex list $0.95 sell $0.72 ACTUAL dealership price $2.13 as per My Nissan in Salinas Ca (who did drop the price to 1.81ea after I showed them my receipt from Bruce Titus Motor group dated from 09 at the old price)

 

Other Option: ARP Exhaust stud kit:

Ebay Item number: 150573996319

173.28+6 for shipping.

 

I bought the studs in 09 from Nissan... I have 1 damaged stud out of 12. Local machine shops laugh at my 1.25 TP M10 stud. Grainger, Fastenal, and all other local places that might have such studs were of no help. I sucessfully burned a 1/4 tank of diesel driving around searching for ghosts.

 

UBER LAMENESS!

[70 Cam Guy]

Per Pat's suggestions, I tried Mazda 3 exh studs and they are a little bit shorter but they worked. I've also heard 7M (toyota) exhaust studs work but I haven't looked into it. Either of those HAVE to be cheaper than the ARP kit, especially if you don't need ARP.

 

Edited July 12, 2011 by 70 Cam Guy

[rayaapp2]

Per Pat's suggestions, I tried Mazda 3 exh studs and they are a little bit shorter but they worked. I've also heard 7M (toyota) exhaust studs work but I haven't looked into it. Either of those HAVE to be cheaper than the ARP kit, especially if you don't need ARP.

 

 

 

Thanks I did a google search on Toyota and Mazda studs. It seems the Mazda Miata guys are in the same boat as us somehow. I didnt fine the Mazda 3 studs. What year 3?

 

The Mazda guys left this behind:M10x1.25 48mm

 

also available on ebay through the same source 10 per unit Item number: 120746513753

 

 

 

Turns out that I did not have a sock turbo on my car. Aluminum compressor blade = modified turbo. So instead of trying to fit another stock turbo to match my old one, Im gonna just sell off all the stuff I have gathered up. Its all on CL. all the crap Ive collected. photobucket album

That was a total bummer to find out. But if I can sell everything off for what I paid for it Ill be able to get the top mount kit I want.

Edited July 12, 2011 by rayaapp2

[70 Cam Guy]

I don't know man, I think this is the stock turbo from an S2 RB25

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j232/rayaapp2/RB25det%20stuff%20for%20sale/WP_000364.jpg

 

Those are supposed to be the hot ticket for stock RB turbos. They have the nylon compressor wheel, spool faster, and perform better than the S1 RB25 turbos.

 

Mine is an Series 1, the blades look slightly different.

 

From what I understand, they are still limited on boost because of the ceramic wheels but they produce noticeably higher power on RB20's that swap to the S1 vs S2 RB25 turbo.

[rayaapp2]

I don't know man, I think this is the stock turbo from an S2 RB25

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j232/rayaapp2/RB25det%20stuff%20for%20sale/WP_000364.jpg

 

Those are supposed to be the hot ticket for stock RB turbos. They have the nylon compressor wheel, spool faster, and perform better than the S1 RB25 turbos.

 

Mine is an Series 1, the blades look slightly different.

 

From what I understand, they are still limited on boost because of the ceramic wheels but they produce noticeably higher power on RB20's that swap to the S1 vs S2 RB25 turbo.

 

 

Thats funny... The Turbo in the first pic is MY turbo. Purchased it from Maurice out of NJ a few weeks back. Its sitting on my stock exhaust manifold right now. It indeed has a nylon style wheel. Maurice's car is a 1996 R33 S2 motor. My engine was a 1994 R33 S2 motor. The turbo I pulled off of my 94 motor looks like the S1 turbo in your picture. I am worried that the S2 turbo I have now that is from that picture will have longevity issues because of the nylon wheel. Im not reading good things about it. I was not reading what you are saying now. Its all hear-say though. I would love some real input if anyone knows what I have now. Im afraid SAU is probably the best source I have, but I have been combing over NICO, and Sylvias.net as well and we all know how knowledgeable they can be(enter sarcasm).

BTW the turbo I picked up from Maurice in that picture does spin nicely and has very little shaft play. That nylon wheel is really light compared to the aluminum one I had. This turbo is in very good shape. I just need to install the new gasket kit 14401-21U25

 

BTW I should have my studs by Friday

 

Exhaust stud and hardware from Oz http://www.kudosmotorsports.com

Edited July 13, 2011 by rayaapp2

[70 Cam Guy]

I believe you are correct in your concerns about the turbo but it also may be related to over boosting. I know the stock RB25 turbos run well on the 20's. People on SAU say 10-12 psi is about it for the 25 turbo on a RB25. On the 20, guys will still run 1 bar and make good power.

 

If the turbo is in good shape and that's all the engine needs, I'd run it until you're ready to upgrade. It's not too hard pull off the turbo&manifold if/when you get another. I'm not sure what kind of power you're looking for though

[rayaapp2]

I was getting 14.7psi out of the old one without hitting the surge wall. Im going to be a bit disappointed if I cannot reach the same boost levels. Im a little worried about having to re-tune the car with one of these turbos. On the dyno we did hit the surge wall shortly after 1bar.

My goals with the stock turbo is 300hp. Thats pretty much the limit of my injectors and the turbo from what the dyno was telling us at the wheels. I am building the car to hit twice that at a later point in time. Id like to see around 600hp and similar torque numbers from the rear wheels. I should be able to support that with a second fuel pump, fuel surge tank, 700cc jecs injectors, the top mount CXRacing manifold, and a GTX3582R turbo around 22psi. Thats the goal at least. Ill find out whats stable on the dyno once Im there. Im about 2800 short of actually do that. At that point I will be installing a set of expensive 17X10 wheels and some BFG KD TA 315mm on the rear and 285mm on the front.

 

Bling!

 

 

 

Edited July 14, 2011 by rayaapp2

[rayaapp2]

Okay,

 

Im trying to piece together a brake system for this car.

 

Im not willing to spend thousands of dollars to upgrade these things. I know this is a place one should spend their money well on, but Im not full of money and I believe I can come up with a reasonable solution for less than some of the kits out there.

 

Im ready for more braking power. I believe I need it.

 

Master Cylinder:

Im looking at a B50 or B57 MC to replace my B44 unit which works VERY well with stock rear drums and S12 non-vented Toyota calipers.

 

Front Brakes:

Nissan Z32 Cast Iron Calipers for 30mm thick rotor

Rotors? nothing yet. Im looking for a 11" DIA, 30mm thickness, for 4 bolt wheel pattern, and will bolt up to the stock hub without interference.

Adapters custom to match a rotor

 

Rear Brakes:

Later 280zx rear calipers

later 280zx rotors

Maxima flat FWD bracket with machining done as described here:REAR DISC CONVERSION

 

Despite the MASSIVE amount of info on this forum and a few other places, I still have no solid answers.

 

The fronts are pretty straight forward at this point. The only thing that has me stumped is in this picture that did not come with a good description where I found it. What brackets are these?

z32 calipers, Z33 rotors

 

This is my goal on the front

From Rocky Auto

 

For the rears Id like all the custom work to go into the bracket. There were a lot of swaps out there where people were turning the outer diameters or mounting surfaces on the rotors. Im sorry, but every time you have to buy a rotor you will be required to preform those mods again. Thats not acceptable in my book. I want to easily find my parts and be ready to go if I have to... I cant imagine anyone track racing would run modified rotors like that unless they had backups with them. In any case its not for me. The adapter bracket should do just that, adapt. I found that above link for the rear disc conversion to be helpful. I have a set of 200sx and 280zxt rear calipers. Im going to see how far off the offset is here in a few days with what I have. MM and MSA seem like the only places to get adapter plates. The thing that kills me though is that NO ONE is making an offset Maxima adapter plate like part # 44155-04S10 .

Edited July 24, 2011 by rayaapp2