Jump to content
HybridZ

Bad rear end noise


BAlford

Recommended Posts

I have personally only seen ratios of 3.54 - 4.11 in stock Z applications. However I do recall reading somewhere that one 280Z 2+2 had something like a 3.23?? (Maybe a search on the net could turn up the facts on that one) Now, thats not to say that you cant buy aftermarket ratios lower than this. But, its not to say you CAN either..hehe..Im not sure. Someone will come along with the facts on this one hopefully.

 

Jason

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We have a 1982 280ZX with a Chev 350 engine, Turbo400 trans and a very loud rear end. The car sold new as a turbo with an automatic transmission.

 

We jacked up the rear of the car and turned the rear wheels together and counted the turns of the drive shaft. It seems that the rear end is a 3.54 to 1 ratio. There was a very noticable clack in the rear end when we turned the tires to feel tha slack. The tires are Low profile Pirelli tires (215/50 front, 225/50 rear) on Lugaro 15" wheels. It is 76" around the rear tire. We also measured around an original tire and it was 78". That is not enough to make the car so low geared. When we are going 60 MPH the engine is turning 3000 RPM.

 

We also have a 1982 280ZX standard transmission car. We did the samething with it and it seems to have a 3.9 to 1 ratio 200R. We have a 1980 car with an automatic transmission but the rear end is a 180R so it will not work.

 

It looks like we are going to have to have the rear end rebuilt to get rid of the noise. We could pickup a rear end at a salvage but it might be noisey also. My question is can we get a ring and pinion that is in the 3.2 to 1 ratio?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What kind of a rear end is this? We pulled a rear end out of a parts car and it was a R180. We have another parts car but the rear end is a 3.9 to 1 ratio, so we do nto wnat to use it.

 

We took pictures of the rear end of the car that we are driving, a 1982 280ZX 2+2, and it does not look like either of the rear ends in the repare manual.

 

What is this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

HTIS MAY BE A REPEAT: How do we get pictures to show up in the window? Please go to our web site to see the pictures.

 

http://www.waskomtexas.com/zcar/re_car/rear_end.html

 

What kind of a rear end is this? We pulled a rear end out of a parts car and it was a R180. We have another parts car but the rear end is a 3.9 to 1 ratio, so we do nto wnat to use it.

 

We took pictures of the rear end of the car that we are driving, a 1982 280ZX 2+2, and it does not look like either of the rear ends in the repare manual.

 

What is this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, we pulled out the rear end. BAD ! The ring gear looked like the teeth had been scooped with a spoon. The pinion teeth were sharp enough to cut you finger. The pinion had also been cutting the housing for the spider gears.

 

Now what do I do? I would like to replace the ring and pinion with a 3.36 to 1 ratio but all of the bearings are shot also. I belive the spider gears would be OK and even though the housing is scored it should not be hurt.

 

Since this is a rear end with the CV axels I would like to repair it. What size bolts hold the ring gear 12mm or 10mm. What size fit the 3.36?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should be able to swap in any r200 to your CV equipped car. Just the input flanges and stubs are different. I THINK and I have no confirmation, that Nissan switched to 12mm bolts in 82. It doesn't seem to be much of an issue since I have heard of no one shearing the ring gear bolts... The 3.36 gear set for the 200 is hard to find. According to my Nismo catalog, their is a 3.15 gear set available as well. The gear set, labor to set it up and bearings will cost you near a $1000. I'd hate to spend all that money and still have a one-legger, so figure spending another $550-1200 for an LSD depending on whether it is from an aftermarket source, Nismo, or a Quaiffe. If you were happy with the one-legger, I'd just get a 3.54 r200 from a junkyard and switch stub axles and bolt it in and go. I'd then try and get the tallest tire I could under the rear to decrease the gear ration. Another advantage of this is a tires contact patch gets disproportionately larger as the tire gets taller compared to gains made in width.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...