BOBBY BATES Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 I know jtr makes a set but, has anybody found any better, bigger? I'm going to a 434 and I'm just looking, If I can't find any off to the race shop to get a set but hell thats high....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 if youve got access to a decent welder (PREFERABLY TIG) and some fabrication skill, you can always make a custom set........., head flanges, collectors, and complete kits are readily available. but those are decent prices on shorty headers http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Headers.html custom headers freqently cost over $1000-$1200 plus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 hooker still makes the datsun V8 conversion header (1-5/8), but they aren't set up for the JTR position. I got mine to fit in the JTR position but it took some fab work on the header. my z trapped 120 on the motor and 135 with n02 with these headers. I also tied a 1-3/4 inch hooker header for a 73 vette that looked pretty close but decided to use the V8 conversion headers. But I did see a vette set on a Z, which gave me the initial idea. I'm talking full length headers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOBBY BATES Posted December 22, 2008 Author Share Posted December 22, 2008 do you remember what year vett...1-5/8 could work but I think I'm going to need bigger..135 not to bad on spray.... mine went 153 on spray and when the tech guy got done with me you would have thought i had killed some one...my have to give you call next time i'm in san marcos... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zx28 Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 hooker still makes the datsun V8 conversion header (1-5/8), but they aren't set up for the JTR position. I got mine to fit in the JTR position but it took some fab work on the header. my z trapped 120 on the motor and 135 with n02 with these headers. I also tied a 1-3/4 inch hooker header for a 73 vette that looked pretty close but decided to use the V8 conversion headers. But I did see a vette set on a Z, which gave me the initial idea. I'm talking full length headers. Ive been looking for an lt1 set- do yall happen to know if hooker has one that will fit the lt1 datsun conversion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 Can't beat the Sanderson 1-5/8 from JTR for the price, OH make sure you specify for angled "D" port. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zx28 Posted December 24, 2008 Share Posted December 24, 2008 Can't beat the Sanderson 1-5/8 from JTR for the price, OH make sure you specify for angled "D" port.Greg Yea i ordered a set and they called me back and said that they (jtr) nor sanderson had a set laying around. They said i could wait but i didn t know how long it would take and they couldn t tell me so im just kinda stuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted December 27, 2008 Share Posted December 27, 2008 GVincent. Do you see any problem with having only 1/16th inch clearance between the headers and the steering shaft. I mean it is tight, Any heat problems do you think. I have the Sanderson headers with the JTR set back. Thanks Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 I had no problems with clearance of the Sanderson headers in the JTR set back position. Did you use the complete JTR kit? Are you using the DAT-105 spacers? I have my engine set back as far as possible. I only had to slot the cross member motor mount holes towards the rear. I did not use them and the fit is fine. I think other people did not use the DAT-105 spacers as well. I notched the corner of the GM motor mount a little to give me a little more clearance on the steering shaft as recommended by JTR but I probably could of gotten away without it. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 Yea, when checking the motor installation, I noticed that the frame brackets were not elongated per JTR. This guy didn't do any of the engine bay prep or engine prep work before craming in the engine. I have already had the driveshaft shortened so it's a little late to be moving the engine back unless it is absolutely necessary and if so I will just have to have the drive line redone. Also elongating the holes now with the engine in may not be possible, What do you think. Also I just discovered the this person has taken out the reverse lockout solenoid and left a hole in the side of the trasmission. I wonder what his plan was or if he had one. Can this hole just be blocked off and not use the reverse lockout? Needless to say I am checking everything that was done. I Think I should pull the pan and look around as he told me the he did this just to check the babbit wear on one rod and one main and then he replaced the oil pump and buttoned it up. I wonder what he saw. He said everthing looked good but what does he know and did he get the caps torqued on properly. This thing could turn out bad and it makes me nervous when I see that no prep work was done. What else? Thanks for your response Greg. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 When you had the driveshaft shortened how much play did you leave? Usually you need to have 1/2" to 3/4" of an inch play. If you just need to set it back 1/8" or 1/4" you might be able to do that depending on how much play you left in the driveshaft. Unbolt the motor and tranny, support the motor with a hoist and put a floor jack under the tranny. Slide the motor and tranny forward enough to expose the cross member. Remove the JTR brackets and GM motor mounts, hoist the engine up as high as you can and use a dremel tool with a grinder and grind off enough metal to elongate the hole enough. It can be done. I had to grind a little more off my passenger side to get the bolts to line up. I put the JTR brackets back on loose and the GM mounts loose as well, then started the bolts through the cross member holes into the GM mounts and slowly tightened all the bolts while having somebody keep pressure on pushing the motor towards the rear. Went back under the car and checked transmission alignment and then loosened which ever side cross member bolt slightly while using a prybar to move the tranny into it's aligned position. Tighten bolt on crossmember and tranny mount, done. Why remove the reverse lock-out? I would keep that. Hope this helps, Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 Well when I told the driveline shot what the length needed to be, I told them to allow 3/4" for movement so I wouldn't have anything bottoming out. Well they gave me abiout 1/2" barely when I test fitted it. They said that they would redo it if I needed it done but the problem is I should have made sure that this engine installation was done right before I had the DL made. My fault. I new that the install was not done right because I could see the trans mount hanging down below the frame rails. The recessed areas for exaust in the JTR bracket are suppose to be up in between the tunnel walls instead of hanging down below the frame rails so that, for sure, has to be redone. As far as elongating those holes. Do you think it's worth the effort. I don't have a cherry picker but I could rent one or I could just raise the engine up and support it to do the mod. I probably could raise it up on my large floor jack and then roll the jack and engine back, carefully, enough to get a tool in there to cut the hole bigger if this is really necessary. What do you think? As for the reverse lockout, I don't know why it was removed , wish I did, but I will be putting it back on the trans. On another note. This guy removed the secondary air piping which has a port in the back of the intake manifold held on with (2) 1/4" or 5/16" bolts. I think this equipment has been deleted in the computer but right now there is just a big hole there in the manifold. What is normally done? Make a plate or something? AS I mentioned, the oil pan has been opened up by this guy. Would you think it a good Idea to pull the pan and take a look around. I don't know what I would see unless I started pulling caps off. What do you think. Thanks for you help with this project. You are always a big help. Thanks Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 Larry, I pulled the engine and trans forward to expose the slots, I gave you a detailed answer on your Header post. Are you talking about the EGR holes at the back of the LT1 manifold? You need to block them off, make your own out of plate or there are kits on Ebay for this. I do know somebody that uses the old EGR passages in the manifold for cooling the air inside the intake but I don't know if the work is worth the benefit, he uses a transmission cooler and a small electric pump to run coolant through it. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Thanks Greg. I got the part about moving the engine forward. As it turns out I don't think that will be necessary. It's already too tight in the tunnel so moving the engine back would't be good. Forward maybe. As for the egr port on the mauifold. that's what I thought I would have to do , make a plate but I wanted to be sure the port was not needed before blocking it off. Glad to know about the kits. I suppose I just do a search for egr block off kits for LT1. Is that correct? You use holes as in plural. I am talking about one hole that has 2 studs, maybe 1/4" sticking out of the manifold back side. Is there more than one. Real hard to see back there. Thanks Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Greg, never mind. Got my handy dandy mirror out and was able to see what was back there, One plate on the intake and one each on the exhaust manifold which I no longer have. I"m having the plate shipped to me as I write this. Thanks for your help. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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