lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 Ok, Thanks to every ones help here on this site and some at Hydralic hose shop, I've got the Master slave bleeding problem and connection issue done I think. Now it's on to the fuel delivery system, I have installed a 81Z turbo fuel pump with a Fram fuel injection filter in front of it per JTR and now have 60lbs of pressure to the front of the car, But how do you connect the GM fuel pipes on the left side of the engine with the Z pipe on the right side. How do you get around the GM quick disconnects? What has to be done? Thanks again for the help. Between us all, this car will be running soon I hope. No, I'm sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 There are adaptors for standard AN fittings to the GM Quick-connects, on the LT1 fuel pressure regulator there are 2 sizes, the supply side is 3/8" and the return is 5/16". I went with an Aeromotive regulator for the LT1 at first and the AN adaptors but now had the fuels rails modified for AN fittings and changed the fittings on the Areomotive regulator to AN as well. Re-plumbed the fuel lines all the way back to AN fittings. I have the adaptors still I think somewhere.... Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 But how do you connect the GM fuel pipes on the left side of the engine with the Z pipe on the right side. How do you get around the GM quick disconnects? What has to be done? Thanks again for the help. Between us all, this car will be running soon I hope. No, I'm sure I ran all new hard fuel lines. You want 3/8" and at least 5/16" return for a LT1. I used 3/8" brake lines in both directions. I ran them along the driver side along the inside of the frame rail and crossed over the diff to pick up my filter and pressure sending unit that reside behind the rear fender well, my fuel pump is in my Z28 fuel tank. At the engine I picked up some quick disconnect LT1 Corvette stainless lines, cut them to fit and flared the ends (not fun with stainless) to match the 3/8" brake lines. I have short pieces of FI hose from the tank to my filter to take up any vibration. BTW the LT1 only requires 40 psi, not 60 psi. You can buy the quick disconnect fittings and use hoses if you want or just find some from any GM car. The hose will slip ove the flare in the fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 I personally am not a fan of slip on fuel connections with EFI pressures, Ok for the low pressure carb applications, I just feel more secure with screw on fittings. I have witnessed 2 EFI fuel leak fires from people using regular non EFI rated rubber fuel lines on barbed fittings, not pretty. If your going to use slip on fittings make sure they are a matched hose and fitting set from a reputable supplier like Russell, Fargola, etc. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted December 23, 2008 Author Share Posted December 23, 2008 Thanks everyone. I meeting with someone here locally that has done a few of these LT1 swaps into Jags and such . I'll see what he has to say. deja, I have 60lbs because I am using a stock 5/16 presure line. Helm's Shop manual for this engine specs 41 to 47 lbs. So with the 5/16 I figured 60 would be good. There is a fuel regulator that keeps the presure from getting too high. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted December 23, 2008 Author Share Posted December 23, 2008 Greg, do you have part numbers and a source for those quick connects. Thanks, Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 I welded fittings on the ends of my fuel rails. I ran teflon braided 1/2" lines everywhere and after the fp regulator my line was split wit a 90 degree fitting and into each rail.... if you insist on using the quick connect fuel rail fittings that convert to AN, look at these 2 on Summit. Jody http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=RUS-640860&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=RUS-640850&N=700+115&autoview=sku Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted December 23, 2008 Author Share Posted December 23, 2008 Jody, thanks for those links. I trying to figure the best approach. The lines end in the wrong spots too so some how I need to get them re-routed. I almost think that I will have to take them off and have them re-worked. Thanks, Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted December 30, 2008 Author Share Posted December 30, 2008 Hey Greg. You warned me a little late. the order was in and guess what. Russell does not supply the round pins but McCloud does. The adapters are usless without the pins, I have requested that Carshop find some and send them to me. We will see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 As for the DAMM GM roll pins, I lucked out with some great help from a guy on another forum. He mailed them to me for free. the web site is no longer up but you might try and call him See emails below: Greg, I have 2 you can try. Both are smaller than what you have and both came out of slaves and should work. I would be happy to send it to you just me your address and phone number and we will send it out. If you need it overnight you would need to pay for that. Thank You, Joe Huneycutt Six Speeds Inc./T56Rebuilds.com 888-937-4411 http://www.sixspeedsinc.com  From: Greg Vincent [mailto:gregory.vincent@comcast.net] Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 8:00 PM To: Joe@SixSpeedsInc.com Subject: Roll pin Help! Hi Joe, I was on the Camaross.com forum trying to find where I can get/Buy a freaking roll pin and somebody referred me to you. I have a T56 that I put in a Datsun 280Z and bought an aftermarket T5 metal slave cylinder because it fits better and won’t melt with my exhaust being so close. Anyway I lost the freaking pin for the GM quick connect hydraulic line and cannot find one. I tried a local dealer, they laughed at me. I tried the local AutoZone, Advanced auto etc. I Searched and posted on Camaross.com, LS1.com, Ls1Lt1.com and HybridZ.org I have tried a 1/8” roll pin.... Too big I am using a nail right now but it is loose and leaks and I loose pressure. If you have some pins or know where to buy a pin, know a part number, or know the size I need please let me know before I get completely pissed off enough to pull the slave, have it machined for an –3 or -4AN fitting and buy an AN Hydraulic line and get rid of this GM not so quick quick connect fitting. Thanks, Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted January 1, 2009 Author Share Posted January 1, 2009 Yea the web site is under costruction. I have the ones that came out of the GM slave and master which should get me going if I don't screw them up. But if I get in a bind, I'll give you a shout for your pins. I was just expecting to get them with the adapters, I haven't recieved an answer to my email to CarShop yet. Kind of tells me a little something about them. Thanks again Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted January 1, 2009 Author Share Posted January 1, 2009 Greg. looking at the situation again this morning, it looks like to remove the motor mounts as you suggest, I would need to remove the accessories and bracket to get to the front bolt. I also notice that since this a 240, not 280 like yours is I believe, the tunnel is tight. In fact there is less than 1/4" space between the firewall and the bell housing as it is with out trying to move everything back even more. It looks like he hammered the firewall a little already on the pasenger side to get it in this far. Plenty of room on the drivers side due to the JTR offset to one side. Is this 1/16" clearance to the steering shaft likely to be a heating problem? Thanks Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 Larry, I was able to unscrew the three long bolts that hold the JTR Bracket and Spacer to the engine block and remove the whole assembly whei I did it. I think I also loosened the bolts that bolt the GM mounts to the JTR bracket. Anyway.... I just removed my LT1/T56 2 weeks ago and I only had to remove the 2 cross member bolts in the slotted holes that bolt into the GM motor mount. I then removed the transmission mount and put a floor jack under it and lowered it about an inch, I then put the engine hoist on the engine and just lifted it enough to have tension on the chain and engine and take the tension off the cross member mount. I had my son under the car guiding the floor jack supporting the transmission and ready to catch the drive shaft as I pulled on the engine hoist pulling the motor and transmission forward about an inch which exposed the slotted holes and dropped the drive shaft. So they were fully exposed at this time. I then pulled the motor forward somemore and lowered the trany more, I raised the motor with the hoist at the same time clearing the harmonic balancer clear of the crossmember and contiinued with lowering the transmission and raising the engine until the 8 quart oil pan cleared and the rest was easy to keep hoisting the engine and tranny up until it cleared the radiator support cross member and pulled it forward out of the car with my son guiding the tail of the transmission so it wouldn't hit anything. Anyway I did it slowly at first thinking about your situation and yes I was able to expose the slots just my lowering the transmision down a little and pulling the engine and tranny forward enough to get at the slots on the crossmember, depending on your driveshaft length it will or will not fall out. I strongly suggest you drain your transmission oil before you have a huge puddle on the floor, once the driveshaft is removed transmission fluid will pour out onto the floor. Greg Greg. looking at the situation again this morning, it looks like to remove the motor mounts as you suggest, I would need to remove the accessories and bracket to get to the front bolt. I also notice that since this a 240, not 280 like yours is I believe, the tunnel is tight. In fact there is less than 1/4" space between the firewall and the bell housing as it is with out trying to move everything back even more. It looks like he hammered the firewall a little already on the pasenger side to get it in this far. Plenty of room on the drivers side due to the JTR offset to one side. Is this 1/16" clearance to the steering shaft likely to be a heating problem? ThanksLarry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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