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header fitment for v8 not in jtr position


zx28

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I have a 76 280 with an lt1 installed. Will any block hugger header for the lt1 fit if the engine is just mounted directly on top of the datsun crossmember? Or do i need to set the engine back with the jtr kit to clear the huggers? jtr told me they could get me a set but they would have to wait for them to be made and they didn t know when that would be. Im looking for a set i can order and have pretty quick so that i can possibly have my car ready to drive before college starts back. any help or advice is greatly appreciated.

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Probably the best thing to do is figure out which mounting setup you have. This will tell you which headers you need. Post a pic, or do a search and look at pics of the three basic mounts. It could be JTR, MSA, or Hooker. It sounds like the Hooker is most likely.

 

jt

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Hey to let everyone know . I have a LT1 using Sanderson blockhugger headers with the JTR set back mounts and while they fit they are reeeeeeally close to the steering shaft, missing by maybe 1/16th inch which I don't like. I am afraid that the headers will light up the shaft causing heat related damage to the Rack and Pinyon box and the heat may migrate up the shaft to inside the car to the steering wheel and electrical. As I see it there isn't much I can do, however, with these headers except adjust them with a big hammer. Any Ideas?

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Probably the best thing to do is figure out which mounting setup you have. This will tell you which headers you need. Post a pic, or do a search and look at pics of the three basic mounts. It could be JTR, MSA, or Hooker. It sounds like the Hooker is most likely.

 

jt

 

 

Well right now i have the jtr kit, i installed the motor with it but i really didn't like the distributor being against the firewall, so what i have right now is still using the jtr kit, but i just used the spacers that offset the motor, but i took out the set back and lowering plates and just set the motor (not bolted up tight yet) on top of the datsun mounts. So does that mean that the full length hooker headers like davyz said will work with my set up?

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If you have the Hooker/Scarab mounting position, you can run full length headers such as these: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HOK-2147-1HKR&N=700+115&autoview=sku

hok-2147-1hkr_w.jpg

 

Block Huggers do not fit the Scarab position per JTR. I think they would hit the crossmember.

 

Davy

 

 

Thanks for the link and info Davy.

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So does that mean that the full length hooker headers like davyz said will work with my set up?

 

I'm not sure. I haven't seen a setup like you describe. Your fore & aft location is pretty close to the hooker, but the motor may be lower. The Hooker header tubes 3,5, & 7 go inside the steering shaft, and #1 goes outside the shaft, so there's not a lot of adjustment available.

 

The JTR setup is hard to beat. What are your plans for the car, and what kind of trans are you going to use?

 

jt

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...The Hooker header tubes 3,5, & 7 go inside the steering shaft, and #1 goes outside the shaft, so there's not a lot of adjustment available.

 

The JTR setup is hard to beat.

jt

 

JT has made some excellent points. Please take this advice very seriously: unless you are using a known kit, there is no possible way to determine if the steering shaft will clear, running through the headers like it does in the Scarab kit. The problem with making your own 'custom' kit is that you may cause clearance issues in other areas, like the headers for example. You may have to borrow some different headers and just trial fit everything.

 

I had a Scarab mounted V8Z once and the clearance is tight with the full length headers. I have a JTR setup now and think it's superior, despite the lack of full length headers---the set-back position of the motor just makes logical engineering sense to my brain.

 

Good luck on your choice.

 

Davy

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JT has made some excellent points. Please take this advice very seriously: unless you are using a known kit, there is no possible way to determine if the steering shaft will clear, running through the headers like it does in the Scarab kit. The problem with making your own 'custom' kit is that you may cause clearance issues in other areas, like the headers for example. You may have to borrow some different headers and just trial fit everything.

 

I had a Scarab mounted V8Z once and the clearance is tight with the full length headers. I have a JTR setup now and think it's superior, despite the lack of full length headers---the set-back position of the motor just makes logical engineering sense to my brain.

 

Good luck on your choice.

 

 

 

Davy

 

Well i appreciate the info guys! I found a set of sanderson headers for sale on here so i may just try to buy them and go ahead with the whole jtr setup instead of just the spacers. - im running a turbo 350 for now by the way- it was cheap (100) and close by so i got it, i'd like to have a 700r4 though. thanks again guys :mrgreen::icon14:

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Since you are running an auto, you have more flexibility in positioning the motor. With a straight drive, you got to get the shifter near the shifter opening in the console to avoid a major hack job. You might be able to use the mounts like you describe, I just don't think anyone has done that and posted about it. The JTR setup works really well with blockhuggers, and is usable with the S&S's, but they are pretty low. I used to think the blockhuggers cost some power, but Mark's yellow LT1 car makes way, way past 500hp with them, so they're not that bad. About the only dis to the JTR setup is reworking the hood latch, but JTR makes some nice pieces to deal with that.

 

One thing for sure, you need to get the engine position and headers worked out before you make the drivehaft, or you will spend unecessary $$$$ changing the drive shaft.

 

jt

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it's hard to tell how far in the headers tilt toward the engine block. That's one area of concern to keep it away from the frame rails.

 

I run block huggers on a JTR setup and it runs really close to the steering linkage on the driver side as well. If you are running MSA or Scarab motor mounts there are long tube headers made for those mounting positions.

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ZX28 I had that dilema not to long ago. With 500hp at the crank and n2o 1 3/4 longtubes are the way to go. Limited fabrication skills and next to zero funds forced the use of 1 5/8 blockhugers. I used edelbrocks new blockhugers with 3" J colectors. The fact that the colector flange is not right up on the primary tubes and dump smoothly into a 3" pipe, may help flow over other blockhugers. If edelbrock ever makes them with 1 3/4 primaries I'll be the first on line for them. That said, I did have to cut J colector at its loest welded section and extend the colector 2 1/2" to clear the bar that ataches to the control arm.

 

 

 

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The S&S headers (part 5205, iirc) will fit with the Scarab position, but the collectors will be right against the bottom part of the firewall. They fit better if you cut off the collector and turn the ends down a little.

 

Most standard style blockhugger headers usually fit with the scarab kit, but some will have interference with the collector. A local friend uses these in his 240's and 260's with Scarab mounts: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HOK%2D2001HKR&N=700+115&autoview=sku

 

Shameless plug, but these are still available: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=137862.

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