lazycat5

Just broke my last axle on my indepndent rear on friday. No more procrastinating the 8.8 is going in. Im going to install it useing maximum motorsports torque arm, panhard bar and coilovers. This will mean that i will not need to use upper controll arms and not have to cut up the car to much. The rear from a 5.0 mustang will need to be narrowed 2 and 1/4 inches on each side. The nice thing is that all i will have to fab is a place to bolt the lower control arms to where the seatbelt buckets are. A mount for the panhard bar and coilovers. everything that goes on the rear itself is bolt on and will make the install fairly ease. Good luck on your build.

You should be able to use any light you want and activated with a window switch from jegs or summit. dosn't have to look like a shift light if you dont want.

Hi vega. Just read your post, hope this helps you. I run a 77 280z 2900lb with driver no bumpers everything els is there. It does have a roll bar. 408sbc 10.9 comp 93 pump gas motor that makes 500hp @5600rpm and 518tq @4300rpm at the crank. turbo 400 trans 10" converter 3500stall manual vale body. I have not used trans brake 2 step or the 275hp nos kit yet. Keep breaking cv axels useing 255/60/15 drag radials. So far its managed a best of 10.85 at 124mph traction not a problem, broken axels always a broblem. The diff is welded to. What ever combo you decide to use 500hp at the crank should put you in the ball park.

I got a set of the (c 33)'s this spring and the mods made by oakland240 are the same as what i did. I however use streght plug heads and needed to dimple there to. i didn't like the collectors so i cut them out and used a set of merge collectors from edelbrock that look great. The hardest part of the install was bending the pasenger side header to clear the frame rail. Overall i am very happy with them. Not a bolt on but close enough for anyone to install.

Wow,thats looking great. can't wait to see more.

Well over the years I have learned that "bolt on" is never so. I would have a bottle of tums handy.

I have the jtr mounts and right now im using edelbrock j bend 1 5/8 inch headers with 3" collectors. I use a turbo 400 trans. NC chris, I saw them used with jtr mounts.

Just orderd a set of Sanderson headers. Thanks everyone.

Thanks jay260z. I saw an old post you chimed in on and did just that. Today i orderd the c33 from Sanderson. Not crazy about the way the colectos look but i can change that if need be.

Looking for S&S or msa long tube headers for sbc. 1 3/4 inch with 3 inch collectors. This is for 1977 280 z with jtr setback position. Thanks.

After saving all winter to buy a set of 1 3/4 in. long tube headers from msa. I was told that s&s went under and the headers are no longer stocked. Can somone please let me know where i can get a set.

Odmanout84 when iconverted my lights i ran into the same problem. I went to the local truck parts store and got some chasis wireing clips. They slip on truck chasis to hold wire harness on.

All kidding aside. I can't wait to get my hands on this fi sistem, but i wonder why i don't see them at the track or even that much on line like on youtube. Is there somthing wrong with it that i may have mist?

No, but i want to . Can i borrow you'r wife, mine isn't so understanding.

With backing from the Mithbusters, this may turn into a trend.

Welcome to the sight Throtteton. I to love the way that car looks and only found the pics you and RTz found. I was looking at your first posts and was very intrested on the stuff you and you'r boss are working on. If you wind up making a grill that looks like that I might be looking to get my hands on one.

I know this is for an L6 but, if you do a dual exhaust this is mine.

Simply not true. There is play in the gears which is required to run properly, that play is the reason why they will not transmit harmonics of the crank. This is a quote from Pete Jackson Gear drives Q&A section. Fiction mixed with fact : Gear drives create harmonics Fact : Every rotating part that contacts another, or part that is stressed under load in an engine ( crank, cam, valve train, gears, chains etc. ) creates a harmonic ( frequency ) . Some frequency are harmless, a simple matter of unavoidable friction , while other are percussive & concussive, and are capable of creating damage in very short periods of time . Gear drives, chains ( yes chains ) and most valve train components create frequencies which are a simple matter of friction and rendered harmless by simple lubricants (oil). An unbalanced or improperly balanced crank , ( especially if the harmonic balancer is removed ) create the percussive and/or concussive types which can over a period of time ( if severe very short ) cause damage , above and beyond anything considered normal wear . Gear drives absolutely do not create these types of harmonics . I never said they cause harmonics nor did I question there reliability. All I said is a belt drive may do the job with out the harmonics (transmited) by a gear drive.

I didn't say it caused them, just transmited them.

I ran a noisy gear drive and hated the noise. Chainged to the double roller and was much happier with it. If you have the funds a belt drive will give you the timing benefit of the gear drive without transmiting the harmonics to the valvetrain. Engine guys, please correct my if I'm wrong.

Great determination so far. Nice job.

The collecters end up on the battery aria.

I just mock them in the engine bay and they looked like a great fit with my jtr setback. I just didn't want to relocate the master and brake booster.

Use 280zxt or 300zxt shafts. As far as the squat, can't you set up the spring/shock combo to deal with that issue. For drag racing I plan on doubling the bump stop on the rear shocks to cut some of that squating but I cant say if it will work yet.