Guest Widebodys30 Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 Hey guys, after much searching the net, searching here, asking around, and many phone calls, I can't seem to find a LOCAL guy(@ S.F. Bay Area, CA) who KNOWS 3*Mikuni carbs, and enjoys or doesn't mind working on Z's. I know Troy Ermish might, but he is a hardcore 510 guy, too much work already, and from what I understand from an old mutual friend, he doesn't like fooling with Z's at all. I am looking for someone local who I can drive to his shop after it's together and running(ish), and he will have the emulsion tubes, venturis, jets, ect. in stock/on hand, and will be able to tune it very closely in a fairly reasonable time, like a true carb professional should be able to. I am willing to pay for the expertise. What I don't need is to buy a crapload of extra parts I'll probably never use again, and pay someone who has as much(if not less) expertise as myself a full day's pay or more, for their learning curve on my buck, car, and possibly damaged fresh engine. Don't mistake me for a prissy, silver spoon, CC/catalog guy who spends more than he wrenches, either. I have plenty of time fooling with V8's and Holleys, but very little of that applies to tuning Mikuni's. After the initial tuning, I will have no problem(with practice) doing minor tuning during climate changes, humidity, ect., myself. I just know how finicky these carbs can be to set up initially, and I want to do it right, not spend an entire weekend on a very expensive learning curve that still could be very wrong. My plan is to contact Todd @ Wolfcreek again for his advice on advice for the initial firing, or perhaps ask for some help/advice here as well when that time comes, appx. a month. One thing I've noticed from videos @ YouTube I've seen is that the accelerator pump shot almost ALWAYS seems too much. I know that the shot is recommended on these to be a tad rich, but MANY of the posted vids I've seen are...lacking.The engines often take what seems forever to settle back to an idle, after revving just a few times. I have a close friend with a Sideoiler 427FE Big Block Ford Drag '69 'Stang with a billion times better throttle response than most of those guys. Seems the Z auto cross guys know how to tune 'em NICE, though! The wealth of knowledge here really is awesome. I just recently moved back to be @ family, so that is why I don't know many folks, and haven't really made many contacts here. Back in Ohio, I'd make one local phone call, no problem. Thanx in advance for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PanzerAce Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 try these guys (assuming you haven't already): http://zcargarage.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 Rebello is not too far away, and they have Mikuni parts on hand and know how to tune them. Finding someone who really knows what they're doing is the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2eighTZ4me Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 These carbs aren't really that difficult to tune. It takes patience, a decent assortment of jets, and a wideband O2 sensor. IMHO, Webers are more of a PITA to tune than Mikunis. BTW - Mikunis have jet blocks - Webers have emulsion tubes. What are the specs on your motor? Perhaps I could try to make a recommendation, as I just did it myself. I have my notes still...of course they may not apply to your motor. Just trying to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Widebodys30 Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 Thanks for the suggestions, and encouragement, guys! Means a lot to me. Zgarage: I found their website, and was totally turned off by it. Mentions Mikunis and Webers absolutely nowhere on their page, and unsure how they can mention 240Z upgrades without mentioning Miks or Webers. I inferred from their site they bolt parts on for prissy guys that have more money than skill. I could be very well wrong, and if anyone has ever dealt with them in the past, please speak up. Rebello Racing: Definitely close enough(WOW!), and ABSOLUTELY in my best interest to invest in an in depth dyno tune by them. If I can get the initial tuning close enough to be safely drivable, and not excessively lean or rich to damage parts, that's it!! DANG, didn't know they were so close! TY, JON!! Thanks for the offer, 2eighTZ4me. It would be nice to gather a few suggestions/general concensus from as many Mik Pros as will share, and try to get a nice average for the initial tune. Here's the info you asked about. Rather hot, but very street driven daily driver, weekend canyon carver. My build specs: Standard bore, low mileage N42 2.8L. The head is a ported, blueprinted N42, CC'd and polished combustion chambers. Delta Cams Dual pattern grind, 742-311 Intake: 270 duration, 220 duration @ .050 lift, .470 valve lift Exhaust: 280 duration, 232 duration @ .050 lift, .480 valve lift This build, I will be unfortunately using the stock dished pistons(I know, I know), but next time, flat tops(probably within 5-6,000 miles, ASAP to be sure). I have a set of Mikuni 40PHH's, Polished Mik Short Runner Manifold. And a decent used(very thick material, unknown brand) 3-2-1 header I will be using. Primaries are kinda small-ish, but I got it free, so I will coat it very, very thickly with ultra high temp VHT header paint, then wrap it. What the hell, it was free!! I might post some pics for some help with identification, as I've never seen one with 3 bolt header flanges on both 2 1/2" collectors. Full length, mandrel bent exhaust is 2 1/2 inch. Ignition will be a converted 280Z N/A Diz(yet to buy). Accel Super coil(the huge square one). I will only be winding it to @ 7,000 max RPM. Manual 4 spd. Trans(for now). Rear is stock R180 3.40 ratio (for now). Rear tires are 245/60R14 monted on 14*9 P/S slotted mags. It's my first Z build, so I have had to balance out the whole car/build/$$$. She was a rolling chassis when I bought her, and I didn't even have a trans when I started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lumberjackj Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 This makes me wonder how many people know of Dandos Automotive here in Fremont....right around the corner from Troys shop actually.... http://www.dandos.com/ and you had mentioned something about a dyno.... so happens that the shop i work at is holding a dyno day soon, complete with AFR and we are down the street from Troys shop and Dandos. Hope this info helps! http://www.034motorsport.com/product_info.php?products_id=18616 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Widebodys30 Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 This makes me wonder how many people know of Dandos Automotive here in Fremont....right around the corner from Troys shop actually....http://www.dandos.com/ and you had mentioned something about a dyno.... so happens that the shop i work at is holding a dyno day soon, complete with AFR and we are down the street from Troys shop and Dandos. Hope this info helps! Thanks for the info. My buddy spoke with Troy (http://www.ermish-racing.com), and he said he would make an exception for me, setting up my Z's Miks. Said he would also be willing to help me set my valve lash and wipe pattern during the cam install. I consider myself very fortunate to have his help, and couldn't ask for a more qualified tutor. On a side note: From what I read @ here and other places, properly installing a cam is something that WAY too many people cut BIG corners on and don't do 100% correctly. On such an insanely important procedure! I see it's time consuming on OHC Datsuns, but SOO important! Perhaps because they don't want to buy different sizes of lash pad, or take the time, or something? People who do this kind of garbage, please see my Sig, and don't act surprised when you wipe a lobe, or ruin wipe pads on your rockers, and fill your oil with metal shavings and particles. Just saw a few beauts posted here today that zinc wouldn't have helped. Sorry, I get annoyed at pure mechanical idiocy, and it is so prevalent and rampant. Like GM V6 cast alloy pan oil drains tightened to what has to be 150-175 ft lbs. Seems REALLY common on Chevys. I'm done venting, Ty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lumberjackj Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Thanks for the info. My buddy spoke with Troy (http://www.ermish-racing.com), and he said he would make an exception for me, setting up my Z's Miks. Said he would also be willing to help me set my valve lash and wipe pattern during the cam install. I consider myself very fortunate to have his help, and couldn't ask for a more qualified tutor. On a side note: From what I read @ here and other places, properly installing a cam is something that WAY too many people cut BIG corners on and don't do 100% correctly. On such an insanely important procedure! I see it's time consuming on OHC Datsuns, but SOO important! Perhaps because they don't want to buy different sizes of lash pad, or take the time, or something? People who do this kind of garbage, please see my Sig, and don't act surprised when you wipe a lobe, or ruin wipe pads on your rockers, and fill your oil with metal shavings and particles. Just saw a few beauts posted here today that zinc wouldn't have helped. Sorry, I get annoyed at pure mechanical idiocy, and it is so prevalent and rampant. Like GM V6 cast alloy pan oil drains tightened to what has to be 150-175 ft lbs. Seems REALLY common on Chevys. I'm done venting, Ty. Sounds awesome! Troy is a good guy, ive had him work on a few of my Datsun 510s and always priced right too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Widebodys30 Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 Troy is a good guy. Knows his stuff, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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