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CAS question?


luvmy280zxt

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I also have an 81 280ZXT and it ran fine with the stock crank trigger sensor. Got a newer 82 or 83 dizzy with the CAS wheel inside the dizzy, and just put it in, pluged it in, and all runs great. The stock electrical connector on the newer dizzy plugs into the orginal harness just like the orginal crank trigger did. Just plugged it in and drove away.

I did the change so I can later install the MegaSquirt which I am told needs the distributor wheel trigger, but for some reason will not work with the 81 crank trigger. Why that is true I do not know, but there you are.

 

NEW QUESTION FOR THE BRIAN TRUST- About the EGR

 

Before and after the distributor change, from time to time the idle would get funky (techincal term) and vacum would not be as high. Eventually she would clear up and idle good again, and vacum would come up.

 

When the idle was funky, there was no ill effect on full power or cruise.

 

Had to wait unitl the idle was misbehaving to trouble shoot. Found that unplugging the vacum hose to the EGR fixed the funky idle.

 

Now here is my qustion. Aside from the fact that it makes more polution with the EGR disabled, are there any long term bad side affects from running this way? Like will the tube to the down pipe rust out?

 

Have a wide band O2 sensor, and G-tech and with the EGR disconnected all is well and she make just as much power as ever.

 

Art

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On second thought, there was one more thing I did when I converted to CAS wheel dizzy. Look on the side of the dizzy, low. You will see an electical spade connector. Run a good ground to that.

 

Not 100% sure about it but I heard that the CAS wheel has an up and down side. So if the ground wire does not fix your problem, try flipping it over.

 

Finally, make sure your distributor cap and rotor are in good condition.

 

If you take the rotor off, be careful about the screw which holds it in postion. Mine fell out on the track at Laguna Seca and the engine promply started to run very funky. No permanent damage, the shaft just spun but the rotor did not keep up with it. Now I locktite that screw any time I service the rotor.

 

Will be interested to learn if you solve your problem.

 

Good luck,

 

Art

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Well I still didnt install the cas but, she still runs... I was checking the vacume lines and other soft lines and found something that the PO failed to tell me about. On the top of the valve cover theres that tube that comes out of it. Is that supposed to spin? LOL I dont think so, but mine does. It looks like the PO tried to do a rebuild and went the cheep way and in a rush. So i guess im going to have to do sum digging into this motor. If it was an n/a engine i'd probably got rid of it. But it seems llike turbo engines are gettin hard to find. Sorry i didnt take any pics of it yet but ill try to get sum on here soon. If any one needs some parts give me a holler. I might just part this thing out once I inspect all the parts. Dont wanna send out any bad ones and get baged on in here...LOL

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