Guest Russ240z Posted September 15, 2002 Share Posted September 15, 2002 I've researched nearly all the trans options for the Z. My last search on the 200-4R still left a few quesions unanswered. Will the 168 tooth 400sbc flexplate from my TH350 work on the 200-4R? and if so what starter do I use? Currently I have the large style that JTR says won't fit. Will the splines on my th350 yolk match up with the 200-4R? I have the Pro-Ratchet shifter from B&M. Jegs says it is universal for GM (minus PG). I'm confused because my shifter has only 3 forward gears (clicks) then it's in neutral. How does the shifter work with the 200-4R since it has 1,2,D,OD Also I called for a price quote on the torque converter for a 1987 Buick Grand Nat'l and it was only $119.00 (plus core 29.00?) . Sounds like a tremendous advantage over the 700r4. Do the 200-4R's require overdrive to be engauged in some special way, like a computer etc...? Do the 200-4R's also suffer the WOT issues of the 700R4? The benefits seem obvious: 1. It's lighter. 2. The gear ratios are closer than the 700R4 3. First gear (2.74) is better than the 700R4 (3.06) 4. Overdrive (.674) is better than the 700R4 (.70) 5. The torque converter is cheaper than the 700R4. 6. The 200-4R reportably transfer's more HP than the 700R4. Durability has been covered pretty good in other posts and leans toward 700R4. I will only be running around 375hp/375tq at the most so I'm not terribly concerned since Buick GN's are running more than that with mods. So what am I missing regarding the 200-4R option? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 15, 2002 Share Posted September 15, 2002 Some good questions on the 200 4R. I cannot answer the flexplate/starter questions accurately. Scottie GNZ is the 200 4R expert around here. I would suspect the flexplate would bolt up and work with the appropriate starter The 350 yoke will fit. No computer needed but the overdrive will require a lock-up solenoid switch wired apropriately to keep it in OD gear.. I am useing a shifter from a 700R4 Camaro. Your universal shifter maybe universal for 3 speeds (?) I have a how to article from "High Performance Chevy" that details this proceedure. You can buy the kits for over $100.00. Some one else can correct me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted September 15, 2002 Share Posted September 15, 2002 Output yolk is the same as the TH350. Actually, all GM auto transmissions use the same spline except for the TH400. You can likely use your universal shifter (cable type I assume) and just not be able to use 1st gear selection. If your flexplate has the dual pattern then it will work (it should have the dual pattern). The TC can be set to engage (lock up) as soon as the trans is in OD. (simple wiring bridge internally), or you can wire it to a switch. HTH. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted September 15, 2002 Share Posted September 15, 2002 Yoke. (Yolk wouldn't handle torque load very well, sorry.) The TH200 should lock up in OD without any extra things. The shifter you have may need some parts that came with it to work with the 4 speed tranny. Usually the 700 is considered more desireable because it does have the lower first gear. To get same multiplication with 200 you need lower gears which offsets any gains in the OD dept. In a Z with 24" tires not as big of a concern, however. The flexplate should be fine, espcially if it has both of the torque converter patterns. I think JTR says the big starter won't work because of chassis interference, and if you have it in there now should be fine. I don't recall if 200 operates in OD at WOT or not. Scottie? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 15, 2002 Share Posted September 15, 2002 I think that gear ratio in first gear was actually a good thing with the 200r at least I'm told by a few that the first gear in the 700 is actually to low (it was designed for beefy vehicles wasn't it?). The 200 will also take less power to turn, just like the difference between a TH350 and 400. I think the 700r became the OD of choice mainly because JTR recommended it, but thats just my own view of it, it is beefier, but also bigger and heavier. Either one built will do the job. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Russ240z Posted September 17, 2002 Share Posted September 17, 2002 Uh... Yoke, yeah that's the ticket. I need to find my old phonics tapes I guess Here are a few more questions. How hard is it to route exhaust around the 200-4R transmission? I know the 700R4 is best used with the Caprice extension to allow the exhaust to fit up in the brace. Do the stock trans mounts have to be cut to use this smaller trans? Anyone have pics of the 200-4r installed with exhaust? Also, what does the speedo cable that comes with the JTR kit fit? Is it only for the zcar tach? Will it fit the 200 to a autometer tach? Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted September 17, 2002 Share Posted September 17, 2002 2004r is about the same size as a t350, you dont have to anything major for it to fit, ive never had a z with auto overdrive, but in my firebird i knew that it had a superlow first with 700r4- just by flooring it i could get sideways. if i were to buy a v8z with t350- i would go with 2004r after i blew the packs out of the 350, mount for 2004r should be same as a t350 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest potterma Posted September 17, 2002 Share Posted September 17, 2002 The ProRatchet is the shifter I am looking at to go with my 200-4R. Wow, small world. You're ahead of me, though. I'm still an inliner. Anyway, here is the link to the B&M page: Pro Ratchet They state that it will work with a OD AT. Maybe there is a 4 speed shift gate or something? Don't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted September 17, 2002 Share Posted September 17, 2002 any shifter kit will work, cable or linkage, man thats what i used to like about american cars.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 17, 2002 Share Posted September 17, 2002 The 2004R is as long as the 400 Turbo with a very distintive oil pan that extends to the end of the tail housing which cannot be removed ( tail shaft). Your speedometer cable should fit but getting the correct speedometer gears installed and the Datsun speedometer calibrated may be a chore. Scottie .. Tim 240 Z ?????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted September 17, 2002 Share Posted September 17, 2002 The overall length of the 200 is same as 350, but the 200s mount is in the same place as the 400 mount, requiring a 350 crossmember to be moved rearward. But the 350 driveshaft and yoke should work fine while the 400 requires the large yoke and a shorter driveshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Russ240z Posted September 17, 2002 Share Posted September 17, 2002 What about the stock transmission mounting points in the tunnel, do they have to be cut out? It would be nice if the conversion could be reversed years down the road if I wanted to. My 400sbc/th350 combo was open headers (drag race only) so I don't have a fair comparison when it comes to exhaust routing. Is there plenty of room at the tailshaft area to route the exhaust around the 200? Thanks again, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted September 17, 2002 Share Posted September 17, 2002 Sorry folks, been catching up on the honey-dos and looking into fixing my hatch. The mounting brackets on my hatch broke causing it to raise up and not even touch the seal. Can you say fumes? The trip home was even worse, raining most of the way and a driving rainstorm from Gainesville. I cannot vouch for a non-GN 200-4R, but the GN version (code BRF) can certainly withstand 500+ lb/ft of torque. That is about where my engine is and all I have is a shift kit, a stock converter upped to 2800 stall and a trans-brake. Again, not sure about the non-GN trans, but the GN lock-up converter is controlled by the ECM and locks it at about 45mph, but does not lock up in 1st or at WOT. I wired the lock-up through a switch and hit the switch about 2-secs after the 2-3. The stock GN converter (code D5) is a 12" unit and heavy but has a 2400 stall and can be had cheap. My 2800 upgrade was only $175/exchange. If the converter is not stamped "D5", it is not a GN converter, so look for that. I am sure someone like TCI must sell a module to control lockup automatically or you might be able to do it manually by tapping into the solenoid plug on the tranny. I will see if I can find the schematics for that. I am also using the Pro-Ratchet and it should click 3 times, 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 and with the lockup, that actually makes it a 5-spd . be aware that you must be using the correct detent and the B&M cable. Take a look at the tranny mount I use. I believe I still have the specs laying around somewhere. I also have a feeling the JTR mount would also work with maybe a spacer here and there. After all, they are bouth simple affairs that bolt to the floor. HTHs and here are some pics that might also help. Tranny Crossmember Note JTR VSS (yellow) Pro-Ratchet (cover not powder-coated black) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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