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Need some tech advice, BOV and bad FP signal problems


rayaapp2

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Im helping another Hybridz member out with his ride. We have 2 problems to overcome still though. Im hoping to get some advice.

 

The first problem, the ECU won't put out enough amperage to kick over the Fuel Pump relay. I see 4.5v at the signal wire from the ecu with no relay. If you add the relay then I see .5V before the relay when I should still be seeing the full 4.5V. So I think the ECU Fuel Pump driver is bad. I tried to replace the relay. I made sure the other side of the relay coil had a good ground. It was still dead. So I bypassed it and hooked it to ignition on for now.

 

Second problemo, He is running the greddy style intake with the Q45 TB and a Greddy BOV. I chased vacuum around using my car as the template as it is stock. So now that everything is hooked up correctly and he is still having drivability issues. Once he hits boost the car stumbles. The variable in the system is the BOV. Its an adjustable type that discharges to atmosphere. I know its not correctly adjusted and I know that venting to atmosphere under boost will mess the A:F up. Recommendations? I suggested to find a stock BOV and install it as I dont have the tools or experience to setup the Greddy one. There is a Boost guage and a Stoic guage on the car so we can watch what it does. The A:F is all over the place when it stumbles and the boost is low.

 

 

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These were taken before a few of the miss routed lines and the boost solenoid were hooked up. But it gives you an idea of what we are dealing with.

 

and just for referance since I couldnt have said it better myself in reference to replacing the OE BOV with an aftermarket one.

You should be able to just vent it to atmosphere yes. But keep in mind that under vacuum the valve will be open. 2 problems here: 1 unfiltered dirty air gets into your engine. You can throw a breather on it though. 2) the extra air is unmetered. So if using MAF still, then you will be running lean. Alternatively, when it actually blows off, you will run very rich. Long story short, MAF systems typically require a recirculation to avoid running issues. But if you've converted to MAP, then go for it!

 

Mark

 

 

Anyone want to pile on some advice or confirmations? Questions? I know I leave info out sometimes that is crucial.

 

 

Thanks Guys!

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Regarding the Fuel pump signal. It's possible that the original signal went to a Fuel pump controller. I know the GTR's had this (higher voltage under higher load).

Anyways, an easy solution would be to just add a basic transistor that will in turn power your relay.

You can google transistors and how to use them. But basically with a small input voltage, they open a gate that would give you full battery voltage. (like an electronic relay really).

 

For the BOV, you could attempt to connect lines to it to recirulate it. (connects to pre-turbo, but post MAF).

 

Mark

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I say find a way to block of the BOV entirely to remove the variable. It's easier than recirculating, probably. I don't know what the flange is like on those valves, but it could be as easy as a piece of steel or aluminum (even wood) with holes drilled the correct distance apart and bolting it to the flange. You can even use the BOV flange itself as the template or template maker to be sure you get the holes drilled correctly.

 

the end of my .02

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