dr_hunt Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Yup, back to working on cars. I had problems getting it to start, it was always really cold blooded, but now I know that is attributed to the build. It's a blow through C&S 850 aerosol billet carb, 350 +.030 4 bolt, hard blocked short fill, with a steel crank, Eagle H beam rods L19 rod bolts, TRW turbo/blower pistons, AFR 220 heads, Cometic head gaskets, Custom Solid Roller cam .630 lift, 230 something duration, 114 LSA all with the Gale banks TT system. The compression works out to 7.5:1 static, probably alot less with the cam. It likes alot of timing to start or even idle. Like 50 degrees. With the mechanical advance it was impossible to get it to run hardly at all. Now that the boy is here we pulled the distributor (MSD) and locked out the mechanical advance. Boy what a difference. 55 degrees initial timing and it runs absolutely fantastic. If I had to do it all over again I'd build it with more compression. At this altitude, 4300 ft and density air at 7000 it is a mother to get started. We are talking starting fluid and the works here. I'll get it on the lift and finish the exhaust and the wastegate pipes, finish the water injection system (factory banks) and then I need to change the gears in the rear end. It's got 4.11's in it now I'll probably go to a 3.25 or something even lower numerically. Hoping it will run somewhere in the 10's it ran 11.70's all day on motor so we will see if the 3800lb sled will go or not. The wastegates have 16lb springs in them since this is the race unit. I also have the stainless steel exhaust manifolds with this kit. I am running the greddy profec EO1 electronic boost controller and I plan to run as much as 20lb of boost on this motor. The new turbo motor for my z project is a 10:1 compression motor. I think I will like that alot better. It will be intercooled so we will see how that works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mannyvig Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Wow sounds like fun! Now that i live in Albuquerque again hopefully I will get to meet you and your son and check out your amazing toys at the strip sometime. Good luck on everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted February 16, 2009 Author Share Posted February 16, 2009 We will be there with the monte and the z and maybe the new turbo z at various times this year I am sure. His z is sporting a 434 cubic inch motor now and we need to stay in the 10's otherwise I'll have to get licensed. The new z should be amazing also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 John from JNJDragracing has been telling me about your Monte lately. Do you have any pics to post up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustin280zx Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 What year is your monte? I have a '71 rolling chassis I bought from my brother-in-law. It weighs close to 4000. It has been to a 10.15 @136 not hooking up too well. The car put down 699 rwhp on 15 pounds of boost (F1-R prochager) in a 383 with no intercooler. That was with 28" mickey drag radials, 3.73, and a powerglide. Just so you know what it takes to get a brick/boat down the track which you probably know already. I have been thinking about switching over the motor/tranny from the z to that, but I just like driving my z too much. I'm also excited to see what the z will do with the new turbo! Do you plan on running pump gas? I'm running 17 pounds right now on pump gas with no probs, but the tranny gave out when I made the pass with the boost up. It would just spin on the street. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted February 16, 2009 Author Share Posted February 16, 2009 Here it is. It is a 1985 Monte Carlo SS. Had 16K miles on it when I got it in 1993. Has 212K on it now. Running a powerglide, Art Carr converter, T-brake, 9 inch ford, detroit locker, moser axles, disc brakes, SSM 4 link bars, 13 inch wide slicks, full interior, stereo etc. Pearl white with spectraflair flames that change color. The engine control is just a msd6BTM and the greddy boost controller. I do have the LM1 to monitor AFR and it works with the greddy EO1. I was planning on pump gas but I have a barrel of 118 octane race gas and one barrel of 111 race gas for tuning so I don't screw it up. They say that the blow through do very well due to the cooling effect under the carb on the way to the cylinders. We will see. My problem is the wastegates are 16 lb to start with. Hang on BABY!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustin280zx Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Here it is. They say that the blow through do very well due to the cooling effect under the carb on the way to the cylinders. We will see. My problem is the wastegates are 16 lb to start with. Hang on BABY!!!! It is about 60 degrees cooler than if you run FI because the fuel has time to atomize and cool the air before the combustion chamber. We had a temp sensor in the hat and one below the carb. We saw around 60 difference. I forget the exact but the fuel does cool it a good bit. That was with c16 and a/f of about 11.8-12.0. I run a 33% alcohol mix with 17 pounds and no detonation at all with 93 octane. I'll have to hook the temp sensors up to my car to see how it is with the water/meth kit. After a 1/4 mile run when I come back to the pits the hat is still cool to the touch so its doing an amazing job. You'll love your turbo car. They pull so hard at the other end its ridiculous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted February 26, 2009 Author Share Posted February 26, 2009 Well, it's 76 degrees here today and it still takes a little squirt of starting fluid in the turbo's to get it to fire up. Ran it up to temp and moved it into the new shop area to put it on the lift. Blowing oil out the exhaust and it is coming from the turbo's. It'll build 5psi boost at 4000 rpm in park. I PM'd wayne to see what he did about oiling. I am thinking I am going to have to restrict it as I think I am getting too much oil to the turbo's. I'm reading 60psi at the top of the block in the front where the turbo's oil supply comes from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 I would tend to agree with the blowthrough cooling. My triple mikuinis ran 17 unintercooled, and they say it can't be done. Most of the Japanese cars that converted to FI, went with ITB's that replaced the Mikuinis or OER's that they were previously running, and they injected near the same point, not at the port. The guys at Fuji raceway said they had to use either more fuel or less boost or 'bad things happened' so the cooling with the injected fuel even at the same point (or relatively same point) as a carb doesn't seem to work as well. I should put some theromcouples in my intake and check it out, huh? Nice ride, the guy I worked with had a Grand National, until someone wanted it more than he did. So with the insurance money he bought a red vette roadster. I said he was a sell-out... LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustin280zx Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 Well, it's 76 degrees here today and it still takes a little squirt of starting fluid in the turbo's to get it to fire up. Ran it up to temp and moved it into the new shop area to put it on the lift. Blowing oil out the exhaust and it is coming from the turbo's. It'll build 5psi boost at 4000 rpm in park. I PM'd wayne to see what he did about oiling. I am thinking I am going to have to restrict it as I think I am getting too much oil to the turbo's. I'm reading 60psi at the top of the block in the front where the turbo's oil supply comes from. Most people use nitrous jets for restictors. I run a -4an feed and -12 an drain with no restrictors and no problems. My oil psi is about 40 idle and about 70 above idle hot. You don't need to restrict it if you have a good drain so the oil doesn't back up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted February 27, 2009 Author Share Posted February 27, 2009 I am limited by the factory parts. It has custom steel feed lines and a 1/2" drain line on each turbo. I am thinking about pulling the block fitting, threading it, installing a brass screw, cutting it off and drilling it out to about .060 or .070 or so, maybe .080. Keep in mind it is feeding two turbo's not one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustin280zx Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 I am limited by the factory parts. It has custom steel feed lines and a 1/2" drain line on each turbo. I am thinking about pulling the block fitting, threading it, installing a brass screw, cutting it off and drilling it out to about .060 or .070 or so, maybe .080. Keep in mind it is feeding two turbo's not one. I would put a restrictor at the turbos using something like this rather than the block. I would think this would be better because you probably have a T running off the front block port and it would fill the lines quicker providing oil sooner and if a piece of debris gets stuck in the restrictor at the block your out two turbos. If it was a single turbo than it wouldn't matter if the restriction was at the block. That's just my thinking though. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GARRETT-4-Oil-inlet-fitting-GT28-30-35R-w-Restrictor_W0QQitemZ370125811211QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Meister Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 Doc, You should not need restrictors. Most problems with turbo oiling in the exhaust is due to insufficient draining or excessive crankcase pressure. 1/2" drains are too small. 3/4" or 12 AN is better. Make sure that CC blowby does not create too much pressure, thus preventing drainage back into the pan. Hanns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted February 27, 2009 Author Share Posted February 27, 2009 I have no noticeable blowby. Both valve covers are vented and you can feel nothing coming out of them. I will play with it some more this weekend and see what I can get going. I need to finish tig welding up the 3" stainless exhaust as right now I just have the down pipes on and they exit right by the trans. Debating on whether or not to run mufflers. I have two race mufflers, flex bellows and all the piping. Then I need to finish the electrical wiring and put in my timing retard and boost signal to my msd box. Starting to look as though I would rather have MS to control the spark when I think about the timing it takes to make it work. The water injection is a stainless 2 gallon tank so I am thinking of running methanol (which I have alot of) instead of water in that. I have 2 barrels of race gas so I'll put in the 118 and drive it on that to start with since the wastegates are at 16psi. I think I'll just use the greddy profec EO1 and LM1 to see where the AFR's are at and then take that off to use on the z since I plan on putting 5psi wastegate on that. Then I can use the boost controller to run that boost up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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