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Recommendations for two-piece rotor?


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Which Outlaw calipers did you go with?

 

Bummer about the street wheels

 

4000 w/ 1.38 pistons. AZ comes with 1.75 and are too much for the 240sx rears so I went with smaller pistons to help balance things out better. As soon as I can get some way to get some wheels to fit we'll see how this works out. One step forward, two steps back ....

 

Cameron

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  • 4 months later...

I was searching around for something else and came across this so thought I would add the rest of the story. Well I still dont have a left side e-brake bracket not that anyone would care. The lightweight rotors are holding up fine. One is starting to crack slightly, not bad and still usable for a couple more events. I've run four NASA days (75-100 minutes / day), three HSAX, three low speed AutoX, a couple thousand street (read highway to events) miles, one track school, & one other open track day. I'm using Hawk HP+ pads and still have a couple track days left before the first set is done. Balance seems decent but I have a bias valve that's all the way open and the fronts still lock first but the front to rear pad wear rate is about equal if that means anything. Stock brakes (HP+ pads) would fade after one lap and now the new set-up (Outlaw/240sx & HP+) fade after about three laps due to pad fade. I've never boiled fluid on track but sometime after it cools off the pedal will go to the floor first time I press the pedal after I start it back up. Stopping torque seems very weak and you have to push the pedal HARD and get a peak mid 0.9 g's braking but not consistently. Overall I'm not real impressed with the performance but it's lived the whole year so I guess I can't complain too bad. I'm now looking for better pads (recommendations?) and adding cooling but can't seem to find room to run the hose without hitting the tire.

 

Cameron

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I can't remember if I mentioned using a 240SX ebrake cable or not in any of your brake posts. Go get a cable from a 240SX, remove the front bell crank and hook the cable directly to the handle, then tie it up in the trans tunnel with the stock springs, then just find a good spot and bolt the cable brackets to the floor somewhere convenient. Works great.

 

You might try a smaller master to make for more pressure at the caliper end. The pedal will be softer, but I know from experience that you can have to provide so much effort at the pedal that it throws off things like heel/toe downshifting and is generally more difficult to deal with.

 

The crappy workaround for brake ducts is to route the hose up and over the spot where the tire will hit it when the wheel is turned. Obviously that's not the best for airflow, but it might be better than none and repairing ducts every time is a PITA.

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but I know from experience that you can have to provide so much effort at the pedal that it throws off things like heel/toe downshifting and is generally more difficult to deal with.

 

Yep that's exactly where I'm at and I know it's not productive for best lap times. I'm thinking more aggressive pads might be another good option. I'm using the larger 280ZX master thinking the stock one wouldn't push enough fluid for the large calipers but maybe I need to go back.

 

I cant find a 240sx in a junkyard to get the brackets off of which is why I still dont have a functional e-brake.

 

Cameron

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Just to be sure you got what I was saying, I used the 240SX cable, not the bracket. I was running 280ZX calipers and they had the bracket built in. You'd need the cable and the bracket I suppose, but the cable upgrade gets rid of a bunch of crap in the trans tunnel so I think it's worth it regardless. Have you tried any forums for those cars? Should be pretty easy to find.

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