L28et into infiniti M30 begins.

[HowlerMonkey]

Going to try to clean up this old thread......the "new forum software" of a few years ago change seems to work better now.

 

Two years ago, I bought a M30 with a spun rod bearing and just went to a junkyard and got another cap and used bearing so I could move it around without it throwing a rod and ruining the block.

So......I suspended the engine on a sling I made from a 4x4 with some chains and large eye bolts with long threaded shanks so I could do the measurements needed to attempt a VG30et since I have every part to do so.

In the mean time, I bought another crank but soon found the VG30et swap would not be a fun road to go down because of the already too steep steering shaft angles as delivered from the factory to the point that the u-joints are almost binding which would be made worse by trying to fit a Z31 turbo crossmember........and I wasn't interested in laying down the rack....which again makes the angles more steep.

The other alternative is making one's own turbo manifolds to relocate the turbo and possibly losing power steering or A/C.

I got discouraged and it sat for 2 years.

Upon getting fired and my landlord putting the house up for sale, I needed to make this car mobile so I just installed what I had lying around which is a L28et and a built 3n71b.

I had already converted it to a front sump by relocating the oil pickup and fitting a front sump oil pan from a first generation maxima (l24e) as well as drilling a new dipstick hole (not in the front blank dipstick boss because it goes through an oil galley which is drilled deeper in the rear sump iteration of the L28.........unless you want to shove a plug down the passage to the proper depth).




Yes it will receive the proper studs at each end of the manifold.

I also own a 1984 rear wheel drive maxima which is similar to the M30 in many dimensions and I also had spare engine mount brackets as well as the sump because this L28et was supposed to go in that car but I just bolted turbo manifolds onto the stock L24e and drove it 50,000 miles that way.

It's for sale on this site.

The maxima mounts were perfect for front to rear location but had the engine 2 inches too high so I found that S30 or S130 mounts would mount the engine (kind of) closer to the proper height and had the proper front to back location........but not ready for prime time.




Time to cut and weld the S30 mounts which seem damn weak as delivered from factory compared to the S130 (280zx) mount but the tranny mount is what is designed to combat front/rear movement.

Right side is actually a S130 mount but they are same dimension but with extra bracing in between.



Turns out is is a lot more of a pain in the ass and requries mucho time on the grinder but I was able to drill a hole through both the stock portion and my welded pad which will have a bolt in case my welds turn out be metal caulking (not likely as I used a torch to preheat the work area)

I cut them shorter and re-angeled them rather than molest the crossmember since I may want to fit the soon to be rebuilt VG30.

I do have a spare crossmember that might be for sale soon.

Left side mount made from s30 (no webbing between legs).



On the left mount, I cut a slot in the added pad and fed the front "leg and foot" through it for an extra measure of safety should my welds suck and break.

I would have done the right side that way but I cut the wrong leg off and had to end up cutting both.....Doh!!

If I don't mount something to the extra bit of pad, I will probably cut of the extra bit but it does clear the 280zx a/c compressor.



Next was my ghetto turbo drain I have put on many a car but this time I actually had the engine out of the car when I installed it.....but it was designed to do while the engine is in the car without removing pan.

Details on this turbo drain are on this post link below.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=820316&postcount=30



Then it was time to mount a 3n71b tranny which isn't longer than the stock tranny but the bellhousing has to move back a few inches to restore stock L engine clearance to firewall which means the tailshaft also sits further back.

Ultimately, the car will sport a FS5R30 tranny using Austin Hoke's adapter but time and money dictate I not spend the cash on a flywheel and clutch parts at this time.

Now to contemplate whether to just put the 280zx turbo yoke on the front of the two piece stock m30 shaft that is designed to work with an "extra long nose" (m30 diff has 3/4 inch longer pinion shaft) r200 but I would rather swap in a standard length long nose since I would have a hard time finding another M30 diff. in case it fails and would have to send out the driveshaft yet again if I swapped in a standard long nose later.



That one shiny bolt is ground such that it fits like a glove into a countersunk hole.

Yes I will be tying the two individual mounts together on that one side........someday if necessary.

More pics to follow of clearance between s30 fan/clutch assembly and stock radiator as well as 280zx turbo radiator which seems to fit.

My plan is to run a 1987 300zx turbo ecu first since I have one and an adapter made from the connector of a m30 ecu and 300zx harness plugs but it will eventually run on a late VG single cam engine'd nissan quest or pathfinder ECU in the hopes that I can fool an emissions inspector (if I move to an inspection state or Obama has his way) by blowing clean readings and the car looking stock underhood with no shiny pipes or racer boy looking stuff.

Another benefit of those late vg30e ecus from a quest is that they are obdII.

I have not cut anything on the car itself other than the stock exhaust pipe just after it collects though I will cut the harness since I have a spare.

The stock 280zx turbo turbo elbow/downpipe clears the steering shaft like the car was made for it.

Yes that O2 adapter is bolted using the bolt holes from the heat shield and guess what?.......they aren't metric but instead are size 10 with the fine 32 threads per inch pitch.

Good luck getting them out of any 280zx elbow you have without snapping them off but I got lucky.

Yes, my hand is wrapped around the steering shaft between it and the turbo elbow but the egr is not as close to the firewall as the picture makes it to be.......plenty of clearance for all of the 280zx turbo hardware.



Better pic of bay.




So far, every part on the car is genuine nissan except for the brackets for the tranny, the adapter for the 02 sensor, and a few hose clamps.

I will be lowering the engine another inch but it will require a slight denting to clear the front sway bar when suspension is hanging and fabricating a custom downpipe which turns back sooner than the factory setup to keep the exhaust system tucked up clean.

It's all labor and has cost me nothing since I had these parts laying around from an aborted Z31 turbo project and the maxima turbo project.

Edited January 8, 2017 by HowlerMonkey

[HowlerMonkey]

Made a standalone version of engine management with the 1981 harness using the crank angle sensor but I still need a turbo distributor shaft to make it right.

 

That and a driveshaft to make it mobile.

 

This means that I can at least run the engine at this time and I can stow the entire stand alone system in the trunk as a redundancy kit.

 

More pics as soon as I make the engine compartment presentable.

 

I won't be able to afford anything for a couple of weeks but it does run at this time.

[HowlerMonkey]

No money but plenty of time so I tied up some loose ends.

Still waiting for front driveshaft from a S13 to be fitted with 280zx turbo 3n71b yoke and a distributor shaft so I worked on some details like the fan and such and ran it for 1 hour twice a day for the last 3 days mostly idling and it seems pretty ok.

Zero smoke and no dead holes.

I'm surprised since the pistons came out of a 90,000 mile 280zx n/a that was filled with water and rusted the bores.

I hammered them out with a 3 foot pry bar right through the rusty bores and, when I realized I was sold an engine missing a few piston skirts and broken ring lands, I just cleaned them up by soaking each in carb cleaner until the rings unstuck and then I worked them until they were clean without removing the rings and honed the f54 turbo block and slapped them in.........crazy......I couldn't find even the slightest scratch on the ring surfaces after their trip through rusty bores.

I realized I needed a throttle when I got in the car and stupidly stood on the gas pedal as it ran.............DoH!!!.......not much worse than a flaccid pedal.

The stock L-engines use a linkage rather than a cable.

I had both a 240sx and a 1992 stanza throttle body (stanza one is better for fitment to 300zx....it says "nissan" rather than "Jecs" on it) and contemplated fitting them but I have zero cash for piping to the larger diameter throttle body so I used stock 280zx pipe and I then decided to remove the cruise control portion of the throttle cam and cut a little out of it a bit rather than try to fit it to the throttle body itself.

If you use it and the plastic bushing it fits over, it will slide right over the stock L28 throttle linkage in a place where the stock M30 cable only has to make a "S bend" and it doesn't bind at all.

Then you just drill it where it sits (once in proper position) and feed a bolt through it.

If you look close, I left on enough of the round portion to keep the throttle action as linear as possible since the L28 linkage that links the shaft to the throttle body already takes a bit of linearity away and not keeping the round portion would exaggerate it to the point that the car would not be fun to drive.

Feels like stock....but bracket looks cheesy.

It's one of the brackets from the VG30 that came off of the VG30 cut down and put upside down.

That took an unbelievable amount of time in the burning hot sun routing the throttle cable here and there and everywhere to come to that solution but the actual work was only a few minutes.

I did find out that the throttle cable still works smoothly when tied in a loose knot.

More time permitting, I will make it look good.



Engine running in car........sadly there are two harnesses in the bay (m30 one unused) but if I had a driveshaft, this car would be mobile.

S30 fan clears radiator by 5/8 of an inch........that's twice the distance of a stock BMW 635csi.

Yes, I know the mitsubishi top hose doesn't quite fit and I have years of chump ass'd hackery on both the engine and the car to undo.

I guess I should work on getting the M30 harness working with the engine but still need a distributor shaft to give the 1987 300zx turbo ecu the proper crank reference it expects.

Now that I have it fit, I can concentrate on building a stout L28 for it using much wisdom from this site as well as the fs5r30 tranny using austin hoke's adapter.

Edited January 8, 2017 by HowlerMonkey

[HowlerMonkey]

Car is now running on M30 ecu (for high impedence injectors) with low impedance turbo injectors and dropping resistors.

You would think that it would run pig rich but the car runs like it came from the factory with no hint of loading up and fuel mileage is about the same as the 280zx turbo.

I'm very surprised but I guess the ecu is new enough that it can "trim" the fuel a bit but I get no check engine lights and EGR works to satisfy the emissions gestapo.

I cut only the portions of the M30 harness as needed and many portions of it made the trip with no modifications.

This harness used to bolt onto the unibody near the strut but I just moved it from in front of the abs pump to behind, routed it along the firewall and left it such that any engine movement does not cause bending at any 1 point over and over......it moves and flexes in many different places rather than concentrating all bending into that 90 degree curve.

Pic no longer exists but it is of the stock 1981-1982 zx turbo dropping resistor unit and 7 insulated spade connectors plugged into it.

 

Next was how to speedometer that uses a sensor rather than a cable to work with a tranny that only came with a cable.

Luckily, Jatco makes both the current zx turbo 3n71b and a RE4R01 tranny out of a 240sx.........which does have a sensor.

It bolts right in and the 3.9 speedo works..........and is damn close to being perfectly accurate.

Once the 3.54 goes in, I have a gear for the sensor from a Q45 infiniti that I've already tried though I have to clock the offset housing 90 degrees..........or find a housing in the required offset that might not be very common.

Pink gear is what I am currently using but black gear is what will go with the 3.54.

Offset can be seen.

Edited January 8, 2017 by HowlerMonkey

[HowlerMonkey]

My ecu injector driver #4 has gone intermittent after a month of being my daily driver.

 

It seems the 1981 280zx turbo dropping resisitors don't drop the current enough because adding the 6 ohm resistors to the 2.6 ohm injectors, the ecu sees 8.6 ohms instead of the 12 to 15 ohms the M30 ecu expects.

 

I'll guess I am running too much current and it's hard on the drivers at high duty cycles.

 

We'll see if this affects injector opening times and messes up my fueling.

 

 

EDIT: Turns out it was just a cold solder joint where the connector meets the board.

 

Ever since the 1981 280zx turbo, nissan has had connector as well as cold solder and cracked board issues causing intermittence.

[HowlerMonkey]

Moved the engine back 10mm so I could replace the dangerous 1970 240z metal fan with a fan clutch out of a 240sx connected to a 280zx plastic fan blades.

 

I first tried the clutch that I had out of a truck which is the same dimensions as the 240sx clutch but, as we all know, truck clutches transmit a lot more power to the fan which you reap as NOISE.

 

I had to place the fan blades on the "engine side" of the fan clutch and use two washers per bolt to space it such that the fan was flush with the radiator side of the clutch.

 

Centering was done by applying twisting pressure between the fan and the clutch to push the bolts against the holes.......which causes it to center itself.

 

Drive the car every day and it drives like it was built by nissan.......and it's unbelievably quiet which attracts zero cop attention.

[HowlerMonkey]

Popped that crappy Felpro exhaust manifold gasket so a ishino is on order.

In the mean time, I used the fact that I have at least 14 conductors in the harness that go from the driver's kick panel to the battery area where they would normally hook into the tranny harness.

Since my tranny only needs a few to do downshift, reverse lights, and park/neutral safety starter interlock, I have put the unused conductors to good usage by installing an injector cooling fan for the L28et.

I used both the fan and the timer unit from a Pre-dual feed injector (up to mid-1986) 300zx though you need the 280zx mount and piping.

Another thing I found is that the manual for the Z31 has an incorrect wiring diagram and diagnostic proceedure.

This is the correct pinout.



I no longer have vapor lock hard starts after a hot soak with the fan.

The space formerly occupied by the tranny controller in the left kick panel easily took the fan timer unit and the tranny connector being there was easy to splice into.I also wanted to have a way to defeat the full throttle kickdown on the tranny so I put a relay that has it's negative side triggered by the negative supplied when the overdrive switch is pushed in on the shifter.

Then I undid the ground input for the gas pedal kickdown switch and picked up a positive such that it powers the positive side of the relay's triggering circuit.

This nets me kickdown of the 3n71b tranny in normal fashion when the button is pushed in and no kickdown when the button is in the out position.

Anybody who's driven an L28et with an automatic would remember getting tired of receiving crazy revs every time they dipped too deep into the pedal so having it defeated most of the time allows me to use the torque and the fact that the torque convertor is relatively high stall speed to enable good passing acceleration without attracting attention.

Every thing was spliced into the harness just before the unused tranny controller connector and putting the car back to stock and running the RE401 tranny is just snipping the splices off and moving the gas pedal kickdown switch to a ground source rather than +12v.

If I really wanted to be crazy, I guess I could have gotten a tranny controller connector and ran the wires to it but then I have a bunch of terminals that would have to be snipped off lest they touch ground since many of the signals going to that connector are shared by other systems.

Pics later.

Edited January 8, 2017 by HowlerMonkey

[HowlerMonkey]

Apparently, thermostat selection in the L6 is very important....don't buy crap but rather spring for the good stuff.

 

Many aftermarket thermostats have a much smaller diameter hole....some as much as 30% smaller but it is definately a good idea to replace a 30 year old thermostat.

 

The fan clutch started freewheeling about the same time the temperature sender stopped working but not before I heard what sounded like someone knocking on the floor of my car..........it was water banging around from extreme heat when I was in traffic.

 

I replaced the fan clutch and it immediately overheated the next morning on the way to work but I wisely had a laptop connected to the consult port and turned around as soon as the temperature climbed above 220 without stabilizing and drove 1 block home. The temp at arrival was 329 degrees!!!

 

Head gasket blown and who knows what else so a spare p90 goes on (after close inspection) and an ishino head gasket.

 

I have a LD28 now and will be installing it with turbo soon but I need it running now so the write up on the diesel will have to wait a couple of months.

[HowlerMonkey]

Had a little time on my hands so........Added a supra intercooler using various saab and volvo intercooler piping and stock volvo/saab hoses (cut to proper lengths for a stock look) that allowed me to route through the headlight openings in the core support without cutting anything or moving the stock air filter box and intake tubing.

 

A little black paint on the one non-black tube in the system should look damn near like the intercooler came from the factory.........maybe a little dirt on the one silicone coupler I used would blend it into looking more stock.

 

 

Boost is now referenced from the intake manifold because the intercooler system has a pressure drop across it that takes away 1.5 pounds of boost at redline and 10psi.

 

Stock nissan L28et "blow off" (vacuum control valve) is augmented by much larger recirculation valve that routes the backed up boost that stacks up in front of the throttle plate to the turbo inlet.

 

This is necessary because of the larger volume of pressurized air in the intercooler system versus the stock "j-pipe".

 

Now that the entire factory infiniti M30 induction system is installed, I can no longer hear the recirculation valve operating.........all you hear from this car is a little bit of fan noise and turbo whine.........well....and tires burning.

 

Wastegate spring was threaded for length adjustment but is set to 6psi and the car's been run to 10psi using the boost control valve (my limit for flat top engine with 93 octane) without any pinging and the boost shoots right up to 10psi and stays steady all the way to redline.

 

A "grainger valve" was used for boost control.

 

 

With this "grainger valve", the wastegate actuator diaphragm does not see any boost at all until boost climbs to the value you have set by adjusting the valve.

 

It's also good to run this if you have moved the wastegate actuator's boost reference from the turbo housing to the intake manifold because this valve is also a one way valve which means your wastegate actuator doesn't see the intake manifold's 25 to 30 inches of vacuum when you drop throttle at high rpms. (good for a 20 year old actuator diaphragm that has never seen any vacuum).

 

Grainger part number 5Z763 for $9.73.

 

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CDI-CONTROL-DEVICES-VacuumPressure-Relief-5Z763?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-BTM_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPBBZ2

 

I swapped the orientation of the ball and spring around so the ball seats on the body end rather than the knob end as delivered by grainger and drilled a 1/8 inch hole almost all the way through the body of the valve (not all the way through) with the .025 inch hole drilled inside the larger hole for the final 1/16 of an inch.

 

Most I have seen on the internet are drilled on an adapter.........but I did not want an adapter.

 

You can just see the hole near the orange loctite in the pic.

 

Sure you can try to drill that tiny and fragile bit all the way through but I was doing this in a vise with a standard and relatively large hand drill so the 1/8 inch hole minimized the amount of .025 drilling required.

 

The hole is in the body in a place that would not interfere with operation of the valve.

 

I wanted a more streamlined installation with minimal size and parts so I got a double ended hose barp, cut it in half, drilled the hole in the knurled portion of the grainger valve larger, and pounded the barb through from the inside to keep it captive unlike most I've seen on the internet where it is pounded in from the outside.

 

I did have to grind the barb lip formed by cutting the double ended barb in half so it would go into the knurled adjuster of the valve as well as shorten the spring a bit (might not have been necessary to shorten the spring but the bit of hose barb does shorten the compartment by 1/8 inch where the spring seats).

 

I also sourced the proper hose barb for the other end and did not need an adapter.

 

This leaves you with a grainger valve that won't spit out the barb that some recommend you pound in from the outside.

 

$80 total expenditure on intercooler, boost control, and boost recirculation system........all sourced in two 1 hour junkyard trips, one trip to lowes, and one trip to grainger........and some vacuum hose.

 

I need to do a couple of things like making the EGR work, the IAC, and deleting the aux air regulator as well as routing the water lines from the regulator/throttle body to the water cooled center section of the new turbo slated for installation.

 

Waiting on custom a/c lines and finishing a support for the rear mount of the power steering pump......well....that and a proper upper radiator hose.

 

Nistune will be purchased with DLP designs 8 channel usb data acquisition system as well as a dished piston L28et for higher boost levels.

 

Note the walmart "neverstart" marine battery which has two extra terminals and, for some reason, cost considerably less than the automotive use battery of the same specs..........at least when I bought it 2 years ago.

 

http://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-24MS-6-Marine-Battery/16782694

 

Currently, the extra ground cable makes battery to body and battery to engine connections redundant and the extra positive terminal can be used for something that draws big current such as amps for a subwoofer or maybe a huge laser to blind chumps who cut me off.

 

I mentioned a subwoofer but I found that putting 6x9s in the rear deck of a car with a decent sized trunk offers up some pretty tight bass and enough volume to leave my ears ringing after a loud song.

 

I had originally tried infiniti kappa 6 1/2 components but it was not nearly loud enough behind a $75 buck pioneer head unit without supplemental amps so in went some 8 year old (6 years in a box) pioneer 4 way 6X9s that were purchased because they had the LOWEST wattage rating I could find for that speaker size.

 

Sometimes you get lucky with stereo installations and sometimes you spend tons of time and money for something that never does sound good.

 

Since the car originally had bose speakers, I had to fashion 1 inch thick shims carefully cut into bizarre shapes as to minimize any obstruction of the 6x9 speaker through the very odd shaped speaker holes.

 

While the front 6 1/2s in the doors are pathetic in comparison, the 6x9s are shockingly loud and friends make me open up my trunk to prove I have no subwoofer or supplemental amps.

 

Fronts also used 1 inch thick shims because the door holes are somewhere between 5 inch aftermarket speakers and 6 1/2 speakers........pretty easy....bolt speakers to shims and bolt entire assembly to the door though I may be tempted to play around with the factory bose enclosures with an aftermarket speaker installed later on.

 

All speakers are under the stock covers so any sideways baseball cap wearin' thieving ass'd nimrod will see nothing worth breaking into the car for.

 

I'll try to add pics of the speaker install for the M30 guys because I have shared in their pain.

 

At least 25,000 daily driven miles so far and here's how it looked during my trip to kennedy space center to do some aero testing on the twin turbo ford GT.

 

 

It is parked under a tree I used 22 years earlier to pull an engine in my 1969 ss chevelle (455 olds) that broke an oil pump as I was moving and had only money for gas........but plenty of tools and the parts necessary to pull off the job.

 

This is located in a state picnic area on Indrio road just east of I95 in florida and the engine was pulled during a monster lightning storm.

 

Sadly, moving the seat forward to get my tools out poked a hole in my can of "off" initiating a panic stricken and can tearing application of the insect repellent but the downpour of rain washed it off I was eaten alive by mosquitos anyway.

Edited September 5, 2011 by HowlerMonkey

[HowlerMonkey]

Tracked the car at Palm Beach International Raceway during "midnight madness" october 12, 2012.

 

L28E (flattops) p90 head, 3n71b automatic, mkIII supra intercooler, 7 pounds boost, stock ecu (untuned), stock L28et injectors, 3.54 R200, 215/60-15.

 

I think some tuning with nistune could get into the 14s because the aggressive M30 ecu timing requires base timing to be backed off.

 

[BluDestiny]

This is such a cool swap.

[HowlerMonkey]

Since it seems hybridz forums took a huge step backwards in functionality concerning pictures, you will simply have to use your imagination.

 

Nice work, hybridz

Edited October 22, 2013 by HowlerMonkey

[Metro]

Since it seems hybridz forums took a huge step backwards in functionality concerning pictures, you will simply have to use your imagination.

 

Nice work, hybridz

 

All the missing images are hosted on http://princemakaha.homestead.com/ which is dead.

[HowlerMonkey]

I am aware of that and wrote that in the post above.

 

I have the images at a new host but it won't let me edit the original post successfully......gives me a database error every time.

 

Tried editing a single word leaving everything else the same........database error.

 

Tried copying the posts with the missing images and editing in the new addresses before posting them at the bottom..........hybridz won't allow linking anymore and you have to create a photo album, upload the pictures, divine the addresses, and then post them to the new thread.

 

I find it stupid that might be forced to make hybridz host my photos......seems like a huge waste of bandwidth since I am on a cell phone connection tethered to my laptop.

 

This means large amounts of uploading takes forever.

 

If anybody wants to see the thread and mods pictures, I am posting a link below to a more reasonable forum who has their shit together.

 

I'm not jumping through hoops because hybridz can't be user friendly.

 

 

LOL.....won't let me post a link.

[NewZed]

since I am on a cell phone connection tethered to my laptop.

You should complain to your tether holder.   Seriously, we all need to be able to do more from our cell phones.  Seriously.

 

OK, not seriously.  It's amazing that people are so integrated with "cell phones" that they get indignant when they can't do what they want from the phone.  Apple, and their followers, have done an amazing job of creating a horde of people demanding their cell phone rights.  Incredible.  They've trained millions of people to believe that life with a cell phone is "normal" and anything else is weird and primitive. 

 

Step back and throw off the Apple/cell phone yoke and you'll have to agree.  It really is amazing, especially for someone who's been hanging ten (old surfer term - Google it) on the technology wave, from rotary phones (those old phones with the circular dial and ten digits to choose from) to today.

[HowlerMonkey]

I only use my cell phone for phone calls and tethering since I am mobile much of the time.

 

Not sure how you got that I have fully integrated the cell phone into every facet of my life.

 

Yeah......rode the technology wave writing code in the 1970s and keeping with all new innovation up to now and maintaining a MCSE (no longer called that) since that cert first existed back in DOS and NT 3.51 days.

 

I come from the days of every byte being precious and feel it's a waste for me to pump a couple hundred MB to hybridz just to show a few pics.

 

My vast experience is why I take issue with my experience here...........because I have experienced most all computing has to offer.

 

Searching brings up multiple threads who's suggestions do not help and I've reached the time limit I have set aside for coming up with a solution that works well.

 

If you know a post that shows how to work with this quirky forum software without investing half a day, I would be grateful but have not found it so far.

Edited October 23, 2013 by HowlerMonkey

[NewZed]

I was joking.  When I saw the cellphone comment, and the jibes at "hybridz" (the site owners and moderators) it seemed like a perspective check might help.  You were deviating from asking for suggestions to pissing off the moderators.  Didn't seem like a good way to go.

 

Hybridz is still much, much easier than the other two Z forums I've posted on, classiczcars.com and yorgo.com (AKA zcar.com).  You have to jump through a bunch of hoops on those sites, although they might have better linking to image hosting sites.  I'm going to guess that the site operators have to choose between site security and user convenience and have chosen the safe side.  SuperDan just spent a couple of weeks tracking down problems with Avast security notifications and the moderators still have to battle the Uggh boot spam poster every week or two. 

 

Good luck with it.  Maybe start a separate thread specific to linking images.  Since the site has evolved there might be something new out there.

Edited October 23, 2013 by NewZed

[HowlerMonkey]

Seems things work better here now so corrected the thread and retract my complaints from further up.

 

Using same computer as then and it works fine now.

 

Thank you hybridz.

 

Car is now running consistent 14.6 in quarter on 7.5 psi and is a daily driver with more than 50,000 miles on the swap.

 

If it would break, I might be motivated to do more to it but had nistune issues and am waiting for the board to get back from  australia so I can begin to back off the timing and start raising the boost/bigger maf/tune AFR.....etc.

 

I installed clutch pedal from s12 which is almost identical to the first gen. maxima clutch pedal.

 

I had to shorten it a little, bend it to clear the dead pedal (which is so sweet from the factory) and cut off much of the brake pedal.

 

I have the entire 5 speed swap and 5 lug conversion but I'm busy driving the car so nothing further now.

 

Made a couple of appearance changes to it..........kidding.

 

Two dudes left to right are Matt and Frank ........I'm actually in the car trying to sort the clutch switch wiring for the two-step.

 

Edited January 8, 2017 by HowlerMonkey