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Wiring an R32 RB26 as a stand-alone motor.


TurboSE

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I hope that made sense. I am getting ready to install my RB26 into a completely rewired drag car. It is not a Z-car (although, I don't think it's of any importance), it's a 240sx.

 

Everything on the car has been rewired (ign, lights, fuel pumps, horn, etc) to operate on toggle switches and push buttons.

 

I also plan to run a full set of aftermarket gauges.

 

I understand this will require all new relays and fuse to replace those under the hood.

 

I should be able to use the RB26 harnesses on their own, correct?

 

I just need to be pointed in the right direction on how to get power to the ECU (and how to distribute it to the appropriate relays), how to hook up my various gauges.

 

I have searched and will continue to search, but I just think it should be easier to start with a clean slate than to splice into an existing harness.

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I know this isn't 240sx forum, but this is by far the greatest braintrust of RB knowledge I have found on the net thus far, and everyone has been super helpful.

 

PS- Maybe an easier way to grasp what I'm trying to do would be "how would you swap an RB26 into a dune buggy?"

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I'd offer you my advice but I'm no good with wiring.... It seems to me though, if guys can start up these motor sets on the ground, to test run them, it should be fairly easy to figure out which wires to use to power up the ECU etc.

 

Be patient, some one here that knows should answer up when they see this.... :)

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Have you read thru the Chris Rummel Sticky? You should be able to extrapolate the ignition and powering up the ECU from that. I got my RB26 started in a couple of hours by just following that sticky. I will say that some of the stuff is repeated so read it carefully but I think it should get you there. BTW I'm horrible with wiring and the FSM looked like gobbldie gook to me, so this might boil it down for you its only about eight wires and you're blowing smoke.

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Have you downloaded the FSM yet? You can use the wiring diagram in there to cut out the wires/connectors you wont be using and identify the wires needing constant 12V and switched 12V power.

 

Brandon

 

 

I dl'd the FSM, maybe my copy of it was't the best because everything is kinda blurry. Does anybody know of a good quality scan of the FSM?

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You can do this using the FSM. I just did an R34 RB25 using only the FSM as a reference. Yes, you have to have some circuit sense. You also have to think about it for a while and draw a schematic.

 

I created a schematic for the RB25DE R34 motor swap I am working on. It a completely separate circuit for the motor, leaving the 240Z harness in tact. PM me with your email address and I will send it to you if you want it. I appears that we can no longer have attachments to our posts.....

 

I'll draw a similar schematic when I modify the RB harness for Roostmonkey's RB26DETT R32 swap I'm working on.

 

Pete

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Don't forget the injector resistor pack, most of the time they wont come attached to the harness. But if you take direct switched power to the ecu and fuel pump everything else it in that harness. You will have to wire your own gauges of course.

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I have a good copy of the FSM if you want it. If you take your time you can figure it all out. Trust me, I'm not really electrically skilled but I managed to do it. Set aside a Saturday and concentrate on nothing but the harness. Double and triple check before you cut and you'll be ok.

 

Mannyvig -Good point about the ballast resistor pack. I had to make my own as well.

 

Brandon

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So, from what I have gathered so far:

 

ECCS twins (green on the R32/RB26) get fused, constant power.

Ign wire gets fused, key ON power.

ECU back-up gets fused, constant power.

 

Do I just splice into the corresponding wires coming out of the ECU and give them the appropriate power?

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  • 10 months later...

Yeah, using the FSM and a real and reputable wiring diagram, this will only take time and patience. Everything else is just connecting the dots... well... the wires. If I've learned one thing about swapping engines, they're all practically the same, you just need the right diagram to work off of. IMHO 85% of the swap is wiring everything together to make it work like OEM.

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  • 1 month later...

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