Niku-Sama Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 alright i am really stumped to this. heres whats happening. this is on an early 1979, it has an EGR circuit which is disconnected and it does not have an O2 sensor as i am driving some times between 2000 and 3500 rpm the engine will cut out for a split seccond, some times i just see the tach twitch other times i can feel it. it does it weither its cold or hot, its always at random but always between those ranges, some times it does it a bunch of times in a row, here and there, only once, or i can go days where it never ever does it. i have checked: AFM, Injector Connectors, Coil, Air Temp Sensor, Timing, Vaccum & Advance I have replaced: Distributer, Cap, Rotor, Fuel Filter, Water Temp Sensor i havent checked Fuel pressure or Fuel regulator it runs good it just cuts out at random, some times cruising some times when i am driving hard, i guess its better to say it does it at 2000 rpm up as i am not driving much into 4000+ much. i'd like to get this fixed, or pin pointed before i move next weekend (via train) to washington, i am not taking the car as of yet as i need tires really really bad and i dont have the cash for them. but fixed before i leave is key so thats that much less that i have to do when i come back and get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave280zx Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 Hey man, You might want to try your throttle position switch or sensor (I think thats what its called). Its what was wrong with mine. Its thing on the side of your throttle body with the 3 prong connector on the top. It has a black plastic cover, and is held on the body with 2 7mm screw things. Undo the clip, the screws, and pull it out towards the fender. Anyway, if you search "throttle position sensor" here (specifically, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131132&highlight=throttle+position+sensor), you'll find that people are talking about water getting in there and whatnot. You can try blowing it out with compressed air (water could be shorting it on occasion.). However, if that doesn't work, I would also suggest cracking it open. You'll have to be careful with the plastic cover; its gonna be brittle from being in the engine bay for 30 years. As long as you can save at least 2 of the clips, you should be fine. I got pissed at mine, and now its held on with some duct tape! When you crack it open, you'll see how it works. Basically, there are 3 positions the switch can engage. On mine, I had broken a piece of the plastic, and the switch wasn't engaging anything but "Idle" right around 3000 rpm. The throttle extension was just spinning freely whenever it wanted to act up. If this is the problem, you can either grab a new one, used one, or do as I did and grab some JB Weld and just epoxy it in place Hope that solves your problem and good luck with the move! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 I second that! I just leave my off. Clean it once in a while, and when needed ajust it. Very simple device. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 If you see the tach twitch, then the coil is not being fired at that time. I would guess it's the black module on the distributor. Sometimes you can wiggle the connector and influence the intermittent problem to occur as well as tapping near it on the housing of the distributor with a brass drift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zx 2by2 Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 I would guess it's the black module on the distributor. i second this,(the ignition control module) if this is the problem it will keep getting worse and worse untill you eventually can't drive the car due to it shutting off... it seems on a lot of 80's cars and trucks these get too hot and just go bad... its like $110 new (mabe like $30-40 at a J-yard) so try to eliminate every thing else before you do go this route... it also might be your pick-up coil but i don't know because when i fixed mine i replaced both at one time instead of doing it scientificly... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niku-Sama Posted March 31, 2009 Author Share Posted March 31, 2009 oh yea i forgot to say i checked the TPS, i knew i was missing something on that list. and i have changed the distributer and 2+2 should know this from another message board. when i say i changed Distributer Cap Rotor above i changed the whole distributer and changed the cap and the rotor, it was a yard part but it was not damaged and it was rather new as the car still had repair reccords and the milage on the ODO wasnt off by much from the ammount that was on the clock and the paperwork, thered been a 6 month time between the date on the paper work anb the day i was at the yard so i am guessing an old person who didnt drive much owned it but got rearended...i also harvested 5 injectors of this car aswell. 6th was a reman that was not going to come out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 The guess that I don't like to say (it's a pita), short in wireing harness. Check all grounds and connects, and clean completely. Including the ecu plug. Then go after the wire it's self, start at fire wall entries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted March 31, 2009 Administrators Share Posted March 31, 2009 If you see the tach twitch, then the coil is not being fired at that time. I would guess it's the black module on the distributor. Sometimes you can wiggle the connector and influence the intermittent problem to occur as well as tapping near it on the housing of the distributor with a brass drift. I'm with Howler. Tach twitch, tattle tell sign this is ignition related, not EFI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickG Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 This sounds a bit like my problem, though not nearly as advanced. I quite fear that mine is due to a short in the wiring harness... which would ultimately suck. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1008585 Sometimes mine will die and the tach will drop to 0, then immediately come back to life and spring back up. Sounds just like what you've got going on. Oh yeah... I don't have a solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niku-Sama Posted April 8, 2009 Author Share Posted April 8, 2009 well i am up in arlington the last few days i was in town it didnt do it at all. so i donno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 Mine did the same thing. My engine finally just quit. Im gonna check the things mentioned. Ill let you know if it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 Are you game for this weekend??^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niku-Sama Posted April 12, 2009 Author Share Posted April 12, 2009 Mine did the same thing. My engine finally just quit. Im gonna check the things mentioned. Ill let you know if it helps. yea please do, i am headed back to where my car is next month and if i can fix it then that'd be grand because by then i'll know if i need to bring it back up here to washington or take it down to texas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickG Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 My problem turned out to be the ignition module. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niku-Sama Posted April 13, 2009 Author Share Posted April 13, 2009 yea people keep saying that but it they still test ok so i donno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUZN Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 Did you check your sparkplug Wires.. sometimes hot or cold they will ground out. Sometimes you cant even see it on the outside of the rubber. Easy way take a spray bottle with Water and spray while car is running this wil also find shorts in engine bay =-).. just a thought sometimes its the simple things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickG Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 yea people keep saying that but it they still test ok so i donno This was the exact same thing I said. However, you have to remember that your problem is intermittent! Of course it's going to test okay most of the time.... which sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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