Niku-Sama

i live that, i posted at z driver so i thought i should post em here. you posted them like a YEAR ago. the new wheels look alot better than the ones you had though, mucho alot!

carbon canister? dude on a maxima message board has his go bad and cause the same thing...some how

what the heck, i have to agree to the rules every time i log in now? something is messed up i think. any way, nah on the z31 still. i've got a new set of injectors going in soon when i get off my ass and order the end o-rings for them and then i am going to give it a shot. if it doesent work, meh no big, i paid like $8 for it if it does then after i get my next car in order to drive arround i'll go to work on punching out the intake and cleaning up a few things. might be time for a rebulid, only 88k miles but smokes on deceleration with the clutch out and in gear (engine braking). blueish smoke too even but the pressure rises when i am not stepping on the gas and i am engine braking so it could be something PCV related. of course i dont do it all the time and its not currently insured so i am not driving it.

i really dont see much point in swapping an engine harness and everything, not to mension i would have to weld a O2 sensor bung into the exhaust manifold and i really do not want to do that, all in all thats too much work than swapping the afms and adjusting if it works.

i say rebulid it if your going to be using carbs on it. might as well

any way so the feasability of this with out swapping guts, how feasable? going over it several times i cant imagine its impossible, mabe some adjustments. i mean its going to act as if the air temp is 10 ohms warmer over the Z AFM but thats at room temp as well and it'll also throw some readings requireing slightly more fuel but not much more than normal either. and thered be more air to burn up aswell when i do it i guess i'll have to do some narrow and wideband air fuel guage readings or just wing it and see....probally just wing it. been thinkin about rebuliding any way if in the unlikely chance that something major happens it'll just give me the excuse to. i've already replaced the coil with one of those blaster MSD coils, little bit of improvment there, and i have a set of good non leaking injectors that i'll stick on with some new seals before i do this. i have some on there that are seeping, pretty minor but any fuel out of the side is fuel thats probally meant in the engine and a loss of cc's

well its like taking a cold air intake the next step further

oh i thought that was for a turbo. see the thing is the resistance values are minor between the 2 and i think most of it may be due to an age thing, 10 ohms difference on the air temp, i could see 10 ohms difference easy between similar year AFMs from 280s depending on milage and how crusty (basicly) i mean its a 77 280z but theres no word on the year of the cressida AFM, the one i got is from an 86.

i havent been arround for a bit but i still have my z but any way... i managed a decent cressida AFM a while back out of a PaP in washington for cheap and i was wondering if any one had tried one on a NA car at all. i figure open up the intake a bit and swap the AFM over, and by open up i mean the manifold it self and the throttle body. if not i guess i am gonna guenna pig it, and see if i can get it to work. while i am at it i was wondering if any one has the pinouts for the plug on the cressida AFM, i might as well see if i can get away with out having to swap guts seeing how mines NA and all i figure i might have to adjust the spring and mabe lower some values with resistance.

holly ressurection batman

dont you have to change the harness for that? i mean thats great and all when the harness in your car is shot but i dont see much sence in hacking out a good harness for something like that. i think i am gonna head to the yard, there were a few cressidas out there and i'ma gonna expairment with one of these AFMs if i can find one. i also need to see if i can get some tires for this ♥♥♥♥ camry i am driving. it just rolled over 390,000 miles on an ODO that was replaced with a NEW odo because the old one broke after a few 100k

yea people keep saying that but it they still test ok so i donno

i found almost a whole socket kit in the radiator shroud...sadly they were standard sizes

cressida AFM? how is that an upgrade? edit: ok i found this: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/sizeupgrade/index.html is this a direct swap on a NA? i cant tell if they are comparing and replacing guts with a turbo or na zx afm in that link

yea please do, i am headed back to where my car is next month and if i can fix it then that'd be grand because by then i'll know if i need to bring it back up here to washington or take it down to texas

well i am up in arlington the last few days i was in town it didnt do it at all. so i donno

oh yea i forgot to say i checked the TPS, i knew i was missing something on that list. and i have changed the distributer and 2+2 should know this from another message board. when i say i changed Distributer Cap Rotor above i changed the whole distributer and changed the cap and the rotor, it was a yard part but it was not damaged and it was rather new as the car still had repair reccords and the milage on the ODO wasnt off by much from the ammount that was on the clock and the paperwork, thered been a 6 month time between the date on the paper work anb the day i was at the yard so i am guessing an old person who didnt drive much owned it but got rearended...i also harvested 5 injectors of this car aswell. 6th was a reman that was not going to come out.

alright i am really stumped to this. heres whats happening. this is on an early 1979, it has an EGR circuit which is disconnected and it does not have an O2 sensor as i am driving some times between 2000 and 3500 rpm the engine will cut out for a split seccond, some times i just see the tach twitch other times i can feel it. it does it weither its cold or hot, its always at random but always between those ranges, some times it does it a bunch of times in a row, here and there, only once, or i can go days where it never ever does it. i have checked: AFM, Injector Connectors, Coil, Air Temp Sensor, Timing, Vaccum & Advance I have replaced: Distributer, Cap, Rotor, Fuel Filter, Water Temp Sensor i havent checked Fuel pressure or Fuel regulator it runs good it just cuts out at random, some times cruising some times when i am driving hard, i guess its better to say it does it at 2000 rpm up as i am not driving much into 4000+ much. i'd like to get this fixed, or pin pointed before i move next weekend (via train) to washington, i am not taking the car as of yet as i need tires really really bad and i dont have the cash for them. but fixed before i leave is key so thats that much less that i have to do when i come back and get it.

i think hes talking about the "Turbonator" or some variant of it, theres a few different rip offs of one another some go across the diameter of the intake tube and some dont. http://www.tornadofuel-saver.com/?gclid=CM3N4obDvJkCFR0SagodOkJT7w http://www.turbonator.com/Contact.htm http://www.vorteccyclone.com/index.html the turbonator link is on contacts because on their home page theres a really annoying guy yelling at you the instant the page loads and i cant find a way to stop it before i wanna smash my speakers

could always do a syncro setup. engine in the front engine in the back

yea i remember. more adventures in soldering tommorow, yay

wasnt there an Audi or VW that has a squeeze connector too?

ok so i was testing the thermotime switch instead of the water temp sensor when i was checking the into possible solutions to my problem here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=144072 so i try to unplug the water temp to test it but the connector snapped off. i thought what the heck is this? then i notice that the PO (aka Mr.STP) removed the old car side connector spliced in a little bit more wire (to reach i guess) and soldered and hot glued the wires directly to the water temp sensor. so i need to replace it either way because the guts of the thing came out and it was probally bad to begin with but i am going to put a real connector on it i just need to know does it matter what wire goes on what pole on the sensor or does it not matter just as long as it makes a circuit? and also i cant find the thread that talks about what cars have the good connectors (the squeeze kind) so if any one knows off the top of their head what car has those that would be great as i am going to the j-yard tommorow

i am in the write up crowd, i like things to be dumb for me to understand when it comes to fuses and electrical stuff

the rear brakes drag alot and make alot of noise on mine and its a 79. its werid they got new calipers unless even though it is a 5/82 they could be hold overs still