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ebay- Monster cooling rad and fans????


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Guest Gr8White

Wow, that's a great price. Sounds too good to be true and you usually get what you pay for. That being said, if you do decide to be the guinea pig please share your experience on it's functionality with the rest of us!!!

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Wow, that's a great price. Sounds too good to be true and you usually get what you pay for. That being said, if you do decide to be the guinea pig please share your experience on it's functionality with the rest of us!!!

 

LOL!!! Geee, Thanks! Don't know what kinda guinea pig i'd be though! Don't even have the engine and MONTHS of work to go before i'd even be able to test it out. I'm just buying parts/researching as I go. Might go ahead and get this one now though.

 

I can't find and particular flow rates/requirements for the LS1 anywhere. Can anyone chime in on this? Looks like this would be sufficient with the fans. How 'bout if the fans crap out (not likely to happen both at once though I guess)?

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Guest Gr8White
How 'bout if the fans crap out (not likely to happen both at once though I guess)?

 

If the radiator is decent I would think of the fans as a bonus, get some C/FB fans from a junk yard for the money you saved just to be sure....It's hard to beat OEM...You know the fans are the weak link there...

 

Make sure you share your experience with us! That's what makes this site as good as it is.

 

The feedback on ebay for the seller was 100%, that's a plus- but not much of a sampling. Unfortunately, feedback does not indicate long term quality. You might want to try researching the company online, there have been times where that has saved me from a bad purchase, ask me how I learned to do that.....

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I've heard of people using stock 240z radiators in their LS swaps...the radiator you posted would be quite a bit overly-sufficient. I have the JTR radiator and mount kit (it uses an OEM type aluminum radiator) and the computer controlled 2 speed taurus fan almost never comes on, let alone makes it to the hi-speed setting.

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You might want to try researching the company online, there have been times where that has saved me from a bad purchase, ask me how I learned to do that.....

 

Yeah, tried that. I'm not coming up with anything but eBay listings on a google search. I bit the bullit and ordered one. We'll see I guess. I'll post some pics when it comes in.

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ok the 280z radiator is going to be taller than the 240z so this one should work in a 280z

 

As long as the mounting points will match up I guess???? Suppose some minor mods could be made to make it fit either way.

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As long as the mounting points will match up I guess???? Suppose some minor mods could be made to make it fit either way.

Horatio: The one thing about the Ebay advertizement that makes me scratch my head is 3 row??? The Datsun conversion book in Chapter 12 shows the end of the radiator core which is one or two oval 1.5" tubes. I purchase a Jags That Run (JTR) radiator and it appears to be a single row. This offers the least resistance to airflow through the radiator and the best transfer of heat to the airflow through it. To be more efficient it appears that a single row tube of something longer than 1.5" and yet the same height yields more heat transfer surface with the least amount of drag to the airflow through the radiator.

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Horatio: The one thing about the Ebay advertizement that makes me scratch my head is 3 row??? The Datsun conversion book in Chapter 12 shows the end of the radiator core which is one or two oval 1.5" tubes. I purchase a Jags That Run (JTR) radiator and it appears to be a single row. This offers the least resistance to airflow through the radiator and the best transfer of heat to the airflow through it. To be more efficient it appears that a single row tube of something longer than 1.5" and yet the same height yields more heat transfer surface with the least amount of drag to the airflow through the radiator.

 

Your comments seem to be validated in some of the things that I have read. Apparently it is a "myth" that more rows = more effiecient cooling. Found this on another forum. Thought it was a decent explanation.

 

Re: How many radiator rows?

Doug,

 

For about the last 3-4 years the stock replacement rad for the IDI has been changed to 3 row cores, you can still get the 4 row core but you have ask for it. If you don't tow heavy or work the truck hard you will never notice a difference.

 

There are a few schools of thought in rad design. Less tubes means you can increase the tube diameter which then gains you more tube to fin contact area and also allows more air to flow through the rad. Both of these can help with cooling.

 

Now another school of thought is more rows will equal more tube to fin contact so that you can transfer more heat but with more rows you can't flow as much air through the rad.

 

Now which one is more correct shrug.gif

 

I know when I was fighting my cooling issues I opted for the 4 core but increased the fin count. Now this meant that I was increasing the tube to fin contact area (more fins) but I was thickening up the rad because of the full 4 rows so I was not flowing as much air through the rad. So it was very very important for me to keep the rad clean of bugs and such. Now my rad stopped my cooling issues dead in it's tracks - never had problems with overtemp again no matter how hard I ran.

 

Now I know that ICANFIXALL runs a 5 row core which he is getting more tube to fin and is also restricting the air flow through the rad as well. I know from talking with Gary about it that he does not have a problem with overheating either...

 

So there you have it...

 

Now I will tell you that most race cars run 2 row cores that are alumnium. What they are doing is going with HUGE tubes (typically 1.5" tubes) so they are maxing out their tube to fin area but at the same time they are shoving tons of air through the rad because they only have 2 rows... Best of both worlds as you can see but this comes at a price... $$$$$ and then some more $$$$$$

 

So you can have your cake and eat it too but you just have to pay for it (AL Rad).

 

 

Sooooo, where does this leave me with my new (not yet received) three row aluminum radiator???? We'll see. My guess is that I won't notice any difference between this one and another with less rows, particularly with the intended use of the vehicle (casual cruising down the Blue Ridge Parkway). I imagine if I had more severe plans for this car that I may be more concerned. We'll see!!

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The ONLY small problem I see are how the fans are mounted to it, which looks like directly to the radiator fins, big no no :shock:. However, that's easily fixable with a couple aluminum bars ;)

 

So why the big no no? Concern about damaging the fins? Why would a company sell fans that attach this way if it was so detrimental to their own radiators??

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So why the big no no? Concern about damaging the fins? Why would a company sell fans that attach this way if it was so detrimental to their own radiators??

because it takes a while for the damage to set in...by then your warranty will be done.

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