WizardBlack Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 OK, here is the image of the wipe pattern on my N47 head with Isky springs, retainers and cam. These are with .175" lash pads. The first image is labelled and the second is not, but it is about 2X as large. Sorry for the images, I had a heck of a time getting a good shot. LASH COMMENTS: To my newbie eyes, they are closer to the pivot side (good), but probably a tad too close in one or two rockers. I was wondering if I should just tweak them all to the valve side by installing +.020" shims (.195")? Maybe +.020 on the couple that are really close to the pivot and .185" on the others? Can I run it as-is? Please comment. I have more pics if one rocker looks questionable. They are laying in a row (left-to-right) from 6 to 1. Note that I value reliability and speed of assembly over last bit of power. I intend to use Cam2 and boost to get where I want to be power-wise, anyways. OTHER QUESTIONS: BTW, I installed the new, cleaned cam, used a shot of WD40 on each lobe and then set cold lash. I then took the cam off and cleaned the WD40 off, installed the inked rockers, reinstalled the cam and rotated it a few times; wiping the ink off of the cam lobes as them came around. Does this sound right? Thanks in advance guys! I'm getting anxious to get this head back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Some of those wipes look awe full close to the pivot end. I would add to those for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 I went back through the threads I could find, and it sounds like it's a pretty aggressive lash setting. Some of the machine shops seem to like setting them up this way for a 9/10'ths or more build. As I understand it, this will give it a tad more lift and duration (very very minor). As long as it's OK, I't like to run it to avoid more shipping downtime. I drove my car about 185 miles last year, so I want the !%$#*@ thing running! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 I done that marker/wipe check a ton of times, I know how hard it is to leave a good readable result on the rocker. A couple look to be completely wiped off, but long as thats not the case, you should be ok with those as is. I have ran mine like yours... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 I done that marker/wipe check a ton of times, I know how hard it is to leave a good readable result on the rocker. A couple look to be completely wiped off, but long as thats not the case, you should be ok with those as is. I have ran mine like yours... They aren't wiped off, it's just my pathetic photography skills. I'd say the thinnest one on the rocker side has the thickness of a CD left on it. The lines are pretty sharp (with a permanent marker), so I can see how it'd look like a shadow. I bet you're looking at 3I and both on 5? Here's a more pic to illustrate those. I think this one shows the contrast between the blue marker and a black shadow a tad better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 Here is 3 by itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 Yea, other than 3, I think you are good to go with how you have them. It's really not that far off, and as you said, it's toward the better end (pivot). You know what I ended up trying, I'd clean the rockers with carb cleaner, then spray flat black spray paint on the wipe area, then wait a few min for it to dry. This method I found to work better than the permanent marker way did, for me anyway... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted April 24, 2009 Author Share Posted April 24, 2009 So, as long as I have a line on the back side there, I should be OK? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted April 25, 2009 Author Share Posted April 25, 2009 To be safe I ordered a set of Nissan Competition .190" pads from MSA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 fast z Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 Perferct, I would run how it was, dont change the pads. Looks Great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted April 26, 2009 Author Share Posted April 26, 2009 Perferct, I would run how it was, dont change the pads. Looks Great. OK, I'll check the wipe once more like Joel stated and run 'em then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 They look good to me. If you use a black sharpie the wipe pattern is a little easier to see than the blue. I would resurface the rockers and recheck the wipe pattern. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 fast z Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 Get Spray DYKEM, it works the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted April 27, 2009 Author Share Posted April 27, 2009 I would resurface the rockers and recheck the wipe pattern. Pete Why do you say that? They were mirror smooth when I pulled them out. I actually drew them across wet/dry 1500 grit sand paper to clear the last of the oil varnish off and affirm they were decently straight. I did this before I took pics. The only thing I saw on the rockers was a very slight indent where the base circle sits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 Because I see grooves in the rockers. Look at the one all the way to the left: Again, it's up to you, but if it we my engine I would have them resurfaced. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted April 30, 2009 Author Share Posted April 30, 2009 I installed the new .190" Nissan Comp lash pads that I got from MSA. First of all, they made the 3 intake look like the 3 exhaust (as far as wipe pattern goes). All of the rest of them moved up in width about the same amount. On a side note, the lash pads I got from MSA were ridiculous. They were covered in rust! I soaked them for a while and then carefully cleaned them up. I suspect the last litle bit will get worn off where needed. There isn't enough to break off and cause grit in the oil or anything. It does, however, show what MSA's concern for quality is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2eighTZ4me Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 Unfortunately - it's not MSA. MSA gets their pads from the same place that everyone else does - Nissan Competition. I ordered 3 sets from the Nissan dealership for a L20B I'm building, and almost all of them had rust on them. It's inherent in the way they're stored in the warehouse. They're not dipped in oil or treated in any way. It is what it is and that's what you get. Hit them with an abrasive or a wire wheel to knock the rust off and move along. Dip them in oil if you're going to store them. Once they get in the motor, they'll be soaked in oil and won't rust period.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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