trwebb26 Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 I've never uploaded pics to hybridz before - so i thought i'd give it a go... I've gotten lots of good info off of this site (most of it from pictures) so I figured I'd show how my frame rails are going. Pic of the car on jackstands - level on the rockers. I found a string level and pieces of 18 ga. steel under the jackstands to make it perfect to be my best friend when setting it up on my less than level garage. Pics of the subframe... used the standard 2x3 0.83 wall tubing. You'll notice I'm mounting my floorpan on top of the subframe. I've flanged up the existing metal to make a shelf to spot weld the sheet to. Extra 1/8" steel supports where the seats will bolt to. I'm bolting the Corbeau A4 seats directly to the floor (see the bolt holes). [/url] Just another shot of the passenger side. I had to cut the trans tunnel on both sides to get rid of the "humps" on either side to make room for the seats. Just a pic of the T/C bucket interface: Shot of the engine bay - buried in grinding dust. I'm sick of grinding. The drivers side: And 2 pics of my welding cart (my first welding project). It is true what they say... you get better and better every time you weld. These don't show it - but I hard-wired the maximum reccomended 10ga extension cord to the cart so I'd always have it with my welder. It allowed me to wire in some outlets on the front of the cart for grinders/lights/disco ball /whatever. 3 features I think make my cart stand out are the outlets on the front of the cart, the bottle is held in by bent threaded rod, and the build in extension cord. I appreciate any feedback. Thanks hybridz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 Your doing a great job. Be sure to protect your glass from pitting when griding/cutting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelsonian Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 Great job indeed! BTW, would love to see a better shot of your dash and what it's from or is it custom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 Great job indeed! BTW, would love to see a better shot of your dash and what it's from or is it custom? +2 ^^ I noticed that to.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted May 10, 2009 Author Share Posted May 10, 2009 Here is another shot of the dash... The dash is fiberglass. I took the 280z dash and stripped it to the frame. Some floral foam, dowels, paint sticks, etc and some fleece laid out the shape. I used 2 layers of strips of weave mat on top of the fleece. This was my first fiberglass project and boy-o-boy did I learn a lot. I would use only 1 layer of chop mat if I was doing it again - and I did a poor job of determining how much resin to put on - so it isn't as light as it should be. Overall not bad for my first glass project though. It bolts up in the stock location no problem. The gages are autometer cobalt (and one innovative Air/Fuel gage). They are Speed, Tack, Air/Fuel, Boost, Water Temp, Oil Pressure, Volts, and Fuel Level. There are 2 rows of lights between the speedo and tack. The first row of 3 is for turn signals and high beam indicator. The second row of 2 is for oil pressure and brake indicator (low fluid or parking brake engaged). The switches are pushbutton start, oil pressure over-ride (to get the car started... I have the car stop if the oil pressure drops but to get it going I have to over-ride the cutoff), lights (high or low beam), wipers (just off or on), Electric fan over-ride (Megasquirt controls them but I added a switch in case I wanted to turn em on), and hazard lights. There are blue or red led's above the switches to show if they are on. When I get the car running on its own power I'll post up some more pics of it working. I'd consider selling it if the price was right. I'd love to try and make a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 Good work mate, cross bracing from the frame rails to the rocker sills is a good idea!!! Awesome dash as well!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted May 12, 2009 Author Share Posted May 12, 2009 A little more progress... 18ga floorpans are cut and drilled ready to be welded in the car. I'll hopefully get to it tomorrow. Started thinking about boxing in the new rails to the front rails of the car. I hadn't seen how many people do this, but this is what I came up with. What do you think? I had bought some 16ga to do the boxing, but it seems far too stiff. I think I'm just going to use 18ga. Opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkgts1 Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 If you are just boxing it in and it is not structural, I would just go with 20 or 22 gauge. It is easier to work with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
renatodato Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Hey trwebb, Amazing job you're doing. What model Lincoln is that? Are you happy with that model? I like your custom welding cart. I'm just learning how to weld. It's hard to do any restorations without the option of welding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowCarbZ Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Looks good, I like what you did with the floor areas. Excellent approach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garvice Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Looking good mate. Be sure to protect your glass from pitting when griding/cutting. I found this out the hard way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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