HoustonZ Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 I'm finally back from college and have time to work on the Z again. I've started to work on a complete rewire of every system from the lights to the engine. My clear begun to flake badly, so I did a quick repaint with SPI black epoxy. My daily driver now. 1994 Acura Integra. Not bad for a grand! It has the smoothest manual tranny I've ever driven. I drew up the basic diagram while bored in class. It incorporates every electrical component of the car. I'm switching all my light switches to the dash to clean up the steering column. Working on the layout. The shape is because I'm fitting it in the spare tire well under my hatch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrismiller5157 Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 dud is that is really nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forchunet Posted July 29, 2009 Share Posted July 29, 2009 Any updates to this? Also would you mind sending me a copy of your diagram? It could help when in my planning for when I rewire my car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avernier Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 any progress? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trippintl0 Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 That looks really neat and obviously took a lot of initiative. The only thing i am worried about is having all of those insulated crimp connectors. They don't seal out any moisture and are prone to corrosion. The factory harness used crimp connections but they were sealed with heat shrink. Newer cars use plastic harnesses with rubber seals that seal out moisture, but allow for easy disconnecting (example GM weatherpack) It may not cause any immediate problems, especially being on the interior of the car, but I'd still avoid it. Possible alternative: If you used UNinsulated crimp connections but put a small piece of heat-shrink around the crimp to seal out moisture, you may get the best of both worlds. That being said, it seems to be a great setup for testing and troubleshooting, since all the connections are exposed for quick voltage / resistance checks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 He lives in TX, and I doubt he's gonna put hundreds of thousands of miles on it in extremely humid conditions anymore to make it a problem. My concern is the paint job he mentioned. You can't paint over peeling paint. It will just peel off, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Cold Fusion: The most difficult portion of the wiring will be to figure out the turn signal stalk and RH stalk switches. Once these are deciphered and put into understandable form on paper the rest is straight forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 forchunet: I would like to canvas folks on Hybrid Z forum to know what the demand might be for really good and understandable wiring diagrams with a good parts list. I am studying Microsoft Visio where I am planning to make the diagrams. Would it be better to also make modular inter-mating harnesses for sale? Would like to get yours, and others reading this, opinion on same. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trippintl0 Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 He lives in TX, and I doubt he's gonna put hundreds of thousands of miles on it in extremely humid conditions anymore to make it a problem. So do I, and I have had plenty of corrosion issues with vehicle wiring. It's a real problem no matter where you're located. My first MegaSquirt wiring, I used butt crimp connectors. I never had one come loose. But a professional mechanic convinced me to cut them out and solder / heat shrink everything, and I was surprised at the corrosion that had occurred within a time period of about 6 months. The wires weren't rusty yet, but the copper looked dull and dark in places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christoc Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 I'm sort of in the same boat, cept I don't want to rewire my MS at this point in time. The rest of the car however I would love to do. Any chance progress on this has been made? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi303 Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 Check out a boat supply shop, I know here we can get aerosol rubber, basic rubber dissolved in solvent, spray it on and the solvent evaporates leaving a nice moisture and salt resistant coating. cover the boards with that and it will keep them nice and protected. I know a guy up north before I moved who used that on exposed joins on his boat trailer, 3 years after application, doing some rewiring he peeled off the old layer and the wire ends in the crimps were still bright and clear. Given your car isn't going to spend time underwater at the seashore (unless you go to fast on a beach road ) it should do the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 I'm sort of in the same boat, cept I don't want to rewire my MS at this point in time. The rest of the car however I would love to do. Any chance progress on this has been made? I've already done it. It isn't complicated, to be honest. Just take your time, make some charts to keep your thoughts organized and you'll be fine. Honestly, I think you guys are overthinking the corrosion of pure copper. Maybe if it was going to be used as a daily driver in metropolitan Canada for another twenty years, but I doubt it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 Personally I chop off the insulator on the crimp on connectors and solder them - that way water can't wick up the wire. I also use a piece of heat shrink with the hot melt glue or meltable inner jacket to make it water tight. If you are putting all this effort into building the system its cheap insurance to protect it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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