Owen Posted April 15, 2001 Share Posted April 15, 2001 Lone, The adapter spins onto the block. Your're probably right about it bypassing oil around the filter, thats what I get for buying Harbor Freight priced stuff with the Summit brand name on it! I think I'll check out that billet unit in Summit. And get some braided lines while I'm at it. Thanks. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted April 15, 2001 Share Posted April 15, 2001 Hrm, if the bypass is ALLOWED to work on a remote mount I'd think that the added backpressure seen from the lines and whatnot would cause it to activate even sooner - ick! VERY informative site BTW but I couldn't get his final conclusion page to come up - 404 - anyone else see it? Seems I will NEVER be using FRAM again, especially after Mike's confirmation! Now for my problem that seems appropriate here... My block has no spin on fitting. No way to put a filter in there. I'm thinking I'm missing a few pieces If I simply buy a relocate kit will I have the pieces I need or will I need to hit the dealer again? Kripes, I could do this on a silly Ford but a GM?! (sigh) TIA! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 15, 2001 Share Posted April 15, 2001 Blkmgk, thats the block adapter part I was talking about. It bolts to the chevy block with two small bolts and has the big thread for the filter to screw on sticking down. I got mine from a wrecker for like free (with my other large purchases). Had I known a bit more at the time about the bypass built into that adapter though I would have gotten one of the small billet adapters that bolts to the block and has no bypass in it. I may change it out after break-in when I change the filter. They're cheap (like under $10). Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted April 19, 2001 Share Posted April 19, 2001 Thank you Lone - I'm hunting one now Too cold out there right now though, I'm a wimp! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted April 19, 2001 Share Posted April 19, 2001 BLKMGK, You can get them in Summit too. I got mine from Myron (I think, bought so much stuff from so many different people ). You just bolt it on and then screw on the filter or the bypass adapter. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPMS Posted April 19, 2001 Share Posted April 19, 2001 Another trick y'all might try is to use the Baldwin B1 filter. It's spec'ed for GM diesel engines. It's a direct replacement for the standard spin-on oil filter, but it has double the capacity, which not only adds a quart to your oil supply, but doubles your filtration area. We run them in our Chevy truck w/o problems. They can be hard to come by sometimes, but most major truckstops have them. Scott Ferguson 1974 260Z - awaiting heart transplant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DennisK Posted April 25, 2001 Share Posted April 25, 2001 Hi guys, long time, no see! I've had some personal issues keep me away, and though they are still not resolved, I'll try to visit when I can. In regards to oil filters, and lubrication in general. I have been in the automotive aftermarket for over 30 years now, and a good portion of that time was spent with the Quaker State Corp. I started there as a sales rep, and eventually rose to Regional Manager. Upon leaving QS, I went to Pennzoil as a Fleet/Commercial Manager for a short time. What I am about to say will be quite controversial, as I have argued this point with Fram reps for years. First, Lube oils have additive packages you should all be familiar with. The 'SH', 'SJ' etc. ratings of the oil. the latest supercedes all previous ratings. Those specs tell you that the oil is designed to be anti-oxidant, rust and oxidation preventaive , or a detergent oil. The oil is designed to SUSPEND dirt, and keep it away from the engine bearings. Each rating since 'SE' has been asked to do more of the 'keeping the dirt suspended' job. If your oil does NOT get almost black shortly after an oil change, it is not working! Oil filters were introduced on cars in the fifties. They used a filter that was inline, with steel lines similar to brake lines in and out. As recently as 1961, on the old 235 6 cylinder Chevy engine, oil filters were an OPTION. With 'SC' oils, at the time, recommended changes were at 1000 miles. Those who have older small blocks with the cartridge type filter have probably converted them to the spin-on type. The cartridge, and 'toilet paper' type are similar. You'll always find someone who swears these were fantastic filters. NOT TRUE. The truth is that NO company has invented a filtering media that will allow the oil to pass through it fast enough to avoid oil starvation to the bearings. ALL spin on filters have a by pass valve. Look up the specs yourselves, and you will see the by pass valve operates at between 7 ans 15 lbs pressure. On a summer day, with your a/c on, sitting in traffic, on the verge of overheating, your oil pressure is STILL at15 lbs of pressure! That means the by pass valve is by passing!. NO FILTERING!. The filtering ONLY takes place during startup and shut down, and by leakage past the by pass. To bust the Fram reps' chops, I always told them their product only filters 'by accident'. That always got a great reaction! Mike said he cut a filter open and was surprised to see the cardboard and such used in filters. As a salesman, I cut open many filters for Fleet accounts(mostly big diesel units). Many, many times we found shredded paper, string, paper clips, sawdust, and other stuff that looked like a rat's nest inside. I sold a lot of filters doing that. I cannot speak on today's racing teams, as I've been away from that end for 11 years. However, when QS sponsored Winston Cup and Indy Car Racing, if they ran a filter at all, it was a 'gutted' one. just the shell, nothing inside. Indy cars ran NO filter. Again, oil starvation to the bearings was the result of a filter in those applications. The most important filter on an engine is the AIR filter. Think about it. It is (at least SHOULD be) the the ONLY way dirt can get into your engine. The fuel filter is important to your fuel system, but most dirt is burned in combustion, so it is the second most important filter. Spend your money wisely. Buy the best air filter you can, and by the cheapest oil filter. It don't work anyway!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted April 25, 2001 Share Posted April 25, 2001 That is interesting material, but I'm not convinced yet. The bypass valve may indeed open at 10-15 psi, but that pressure drop is across the filter, not the total oil pressure. I would hope you would not lose 10-15 psi across your filter in a system that has a total pressure of only 60 psi max. The bypass valve is supposedly designed to open when the filter is so plugged up is does drop 10-15 psi, and thus not starve the bearings of oil. Just my 0.02. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted April 25, 2001 Share Posted April 25, 2001 Disabling the bypass ensures all oil gets filtered right? I like the point about the air filter, theres really no other way dirt can get into the engine right? From Jegs, "Red Baron Replace your factory Chevy oil filter mounting plate with this CNC machined billet aluminum adapter. Eliminates the oil filter bypass for cleaner, consistent oil filtration... 812-RB102 $45" This seems to eliminate the bypass when this is screwed onto the block but I wonder how a remote locater would be attached to this, just a simple screw on too? Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted April 26, 2001 Share Posted April 26, 2001 Owne, look a little higher up the page - there's a billet remote filter block that eliminates the bypass too. However if you read the above post you'll realize that the filter can cause bearing starvation - that's what I'm concerned about bypassing the oil filter bypass! As for the air filter being the only way dirt gets in - I'd argue that's not true. Residue from the oil - like the coking that occurs on a turbo motor can cause problems too. Heck, what about garbage that gets past the fuel filter? Valve breathers maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 26, 2001 Share Posted April 26, 2001 Are'nt the bearings pressurized BEFORE the filter? It has to pass by the crank before it even gets to that side of the engine doesn't it at least judging from where the distributor is located? Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted April 26, 2001 Share Posted April 26, 2001 hrm so what dos disabling the bypass valve do for you? I'm about to buy an adapter that does that so this is an important question! What about System 1 filters? Just a screen really and I change oil often so... That's what's on the Mustang - talk about a mess to clean when you pop a head gasket (ick). I'm considering one for the Z and will be remote mounting a filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted April 28, 2001 Share Posted April 28, 2001 The filter is located immediately after the pump in the lubrication system. Think about this...if the bearings were before the filter, what would happen if you get a piece of metal sucked up by your pump pickup...right into the bearing. The more I thnk about it, the more I'm convinced the filter indeed filters oil all the time, maybe dropping 3-6 psi. There is no way a lubrication system would be designed so the oil was not filtered constantly, and only bypassed when the filter was plugged enough to starve the bearings. My mind is made up!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 29, 2001 Share Posted April 29, 2001 Yeah, your right on the routing, I wasn't thinking that through very well huh. (Open posterior, remove head... ). Foolishly, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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