cholag Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 (edited) Hello, I have a 1983 280zxt running on MS-II ver. 2.890 on a freshly re-built motor, the mods to the car are: 1. FMIC with 3in piping and HKS BOV 2. ARP head studs, main studs ,and rod bolts 3. Felpro 1mm head gasket 4. 440cc supra low impedence injectors, running on a pallnet rail 5. Ebay wastegate 6. Aeromotive RRFPR 7. Rebuilt head with a very mild turbo cam grind, I will post the cam specs soon 8. LC-1 Wide band 02 sensor 9. Original CHTS 10. Garett t3/t04 turbo 11. New ITM pistons 12. stock 83 turbo dizzy with direct coil control wired up with mobys write up found on DIY auto tune. 13. 240sx TB and TPS I used everything off of niner11's MSQ that he has posted exept his ignition settings which I got from someone else that I cant seem to remember at this moment. But first I want to say thank you to those who had posted there MSQ files because with out them I would still have not had my car started. I am just running very rich and I was wondering if my settings were correct to the parts I had on the car. I just re-built this motor and I would like my rings to seat properly. Also my oil smelled gasy so I just drained that today and put in some fresh oil. Any help is much appreciated, thank you. Edited June 8, 2009 by cholag had to change a word Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cholag Posted June 7, 2009 Author Share Posted June 7, 2009 forgot to add the MSQ, doh! got it running 6-4-09.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cholag Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 So I have messed with my tune a lot and I have gotten it to run not as rich, I honestly don't know how rich it was running before. But I have it so my AFR gauge in my dash is reading 10 to 10.5 which is still rich, I want to get it to 12.5ish range. Pretty much what happens is that I go to start the car and it turns over and starts great. Then I shut it off and I try to start it again and it wont start because I have flooded the motor, I will take the plugs out and they will all be drenched in gas. But I am still stressing out because I have new piston rings and a new cam, so I still have not been able to get the motor running properly enough to break in the cam or at least have the motor run at a high rpm for a fixed amount of time. I would really appreciate you guys taking your time and looking at my MSQ and giving me some advice as to what I can do to lean out the fuel. my best tune, I think.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SidWell Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 What code version are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cholag Posted June 20, 2009 Author Share Posted June 20, 2009 I am running MS-II board version 3, running on version 2.890 firmware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 So I have messed with my tune a lot and I have gotten it to run not as rich, I honestly don't know how rich it was running before. But I have it so my AFR gauge in my dash is reading 10 to 10.5 which is still rich, I want to get it to 12.5ish range. Pretty much what happens is that I go to start the car and it turns over and starts great. Then I shut it off and I try to start it again and it wont start because I have flooded the motor, I will take the plugs out and they will all be drenched in gas. But I am still stressing out because I have new piston rings and a new cam, so I still have not been able to get the motor running properly enough to break in the cam or at least have the motor run at a high rpm for a fixed amount of time. I would really appreciate you guys taking your time and looking at my MSQ and giving me some advice as to what I can do to lean out the fuel. Ok, I don't have a "correct" MSQ for your setup to compare things to, so I am not going to look through your MSQ, just go over how to get this fixed. First off, if it will start cold, great. Get it started, get it warmed up to operating temperature, then go to the VE table and get the idle dialed in. Decrease the numbers in the load cells when it's too rich. This may actually fix the hot start problem too. But if it doesn't, you'll need to go back and dial this in. Here's how to handle this one depending on the symptom. 1. Engine just cranks and floods, but doesn't catch - decrease cranking pulse width. 2. Engine cranks, catches a couple seconds, then dies - adjust after start enrichment. 3. Engine runs poorly while warming up, after about 20-30 seconds - adjust warm up enrichment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cholag Posted June 23, 2009 Author Share Posted June 23, 2009 So I lowered my cranking pulse width and disabled the AMC, now the car loves to start even more cold and I had started it and shut it off multiple times and it started with ease each time. I have two data logs that I am going to post one while the car was cold when started and the other with the car warm. When it was cold and started the rpms were around 1600 and when it warmed up it idled down to about 1000. But what I noticed that was weird is in the data logs it doesnt show my CLT temps and I have calibrated the sensors, so I am going to try and figure that out. cold and warm start datalogs.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cholag Posted August 10, 2009 Author Share Posted August 10, 2009 I finally had time to mess with the car now that I am done with my summer classes, with the older tune above I guess my TPS, CLT, and IAT where not being recognized by megasquirt, so I re-flashed the firmware and that solved the issue. Since then I have been trying to make my own tune with the aid of other peoples MSQ's that they have posted, so where I am now is the car will start cold or hot with me playing with the throttle only a little bit. What happens is once the car starts it revs to 2000 to 2500 RPMs and the throttle is open about 11% and then it will drop down to 900ish when I begin to SLOWLY close the throttle to about 1 or 2%, then it stays there for about 3 seconds and dies. I have included my latest MSQ and datalog, I hope you guys and gals can help me out because this weekend is the woodward cruise and I would love to take this car out on the road. Thank you for all your help. Latest MSQ and datalog .zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noddle Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 at the top you say you have a " 240sx TB and TPS", I assume you have removed the idle control ? when you take your foot of the throttle, is the throttle body flap open a little ?, if not, where is the air comming from to let it idle . Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 I wouldn't use a rising rate regulator, thats a no no with megasquirt, I've learned that the hard way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 whats is your req fuel set at it? Do you have a timing light ? what are you getting while cranking? make sure thats set right before you do any "tuning" I know Iam going back, but what jumpers are on your board ? Mobys write up pertains to MS1 but at the distributor its all the same wiring. do you have the right settings for your injectors? pwm , opening time.. thresh hold get rid of the Rising rate FPR and get any 76-83 FPR that will yield you 30 psi I believe. Also get rid of the stock CHTS and get a GM CTS it is already programmed throught MS. What do you have for Air sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cholag Posted September 8, 2009 Author Share Posted September 8, 2009 I am greatly sorry for responding so late but here are some answers and a complete update on the car: Noodle, I still had the screw on the throttle body to hold the valve open slightly but where I was getting most of my air when idling was from the IAC I had set up. I bought the IAC box from DIY and a valve from rock auto, set the vacuum hoses up and that’s where my extra air came from. jacob08, I totally agree with you and I have capped it off. Also this is the FPR that I am running http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/products.php?prod=11 softopz, all my settings for the most part are correct, the sensors that I am using are a GM CLT and IAT bought from DIY. So here is the update, I got fed up with the car and found a guy not to far that has tuned megasquirts on spec Miata cars and he has won trophies as well so that was good enough credentials for me. Well I towed it there and he gets started first we found out that my wide band was wired wrong, I guess I had analog 1 (yellow wire) going to the relay board and analog 2 (brown wire) going to my gauge and I suppose I shouldn't have been doing that. What the proper setup was the brown wire was supposed to feed to my relay board and the gauge so after doing that we had a wideband signal coming in on mega tune. The whole thing was a little strange to me because I was getting a signal before with the way I had it wired up but it works now so whatever. Next, all of a sudden my electric started going screwy and my first thought was this guy messed with something but I did my checks I tested the MS unit and it tested fine then I re flashed firmware on it and re loaded my settings. So I started looking at the relay board or the wire connecting the two, but saw no problems. Then I did some research on mega manual and found if you are getting messed up signal readings from your sensors add an extra ground from pin 19 on the terminal strip to the MS grounding location, I did that and everything cleared up, now back to the idling issue. I am sitting in this guys office and all of a sudden I here my car idling . So I go out there and he told me he changed one setting under my injection control and he changed the injection staging from alternating to simultaneous and the whole car just idled. I was kind of upset that I didn’t notice that but at least I had everything else on the car right. Then he started to slowly bring the rpms up and started to lean out the fuel table and I was getting a good 13 to 1 AFR so I was very happy at this moment and decided to flush all the old gassed up oil out of my motor. Then after the oil change he started to bring the rpms up again slowly but this time it was popping very loudly, it wasn’t a back fire, miss fire, or issue with the timing (I forgot to mention that we also got that dialed in and it was like 2 degrees off from where it should have been). Now mind you I only have a down pipe (about 10in) for an exhaust so his predictions as to what it could be is 1. There is too much ignition advance, 2. Not enough exhaust pipes so we are hearing the motor right away, or 3. They are lean pops because I have no accel enrichment. So I told him to put an exhaust on, I needed one anyways and that should be done tomorrow, then he will get back to tuning it and possibly putting it on the dyno. The only reason why I have not taken the car back is because I am taking a butt ton of credits this semester and don’t need my mom yelling at me saying I am taking up the garage. Also the exhaust is a full 3in, it’s all vibrant stuff with a 12in bullet muffler in the middle and I have the waste gate dumping into it as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 Thats another no no, ha ha, you can't just cap it off either you must actually have a regulator that rises 1:1 ratio with boost, such as the aeromotive A1000 Fuel Injected bypass regulator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cholag Posted September 9, 2009 Author Share Posted September 9, 2009 Well thats what I have, so I take it that is acceptable? Also I have provided a link to the type of FPR that I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Aeromotive's spec says this one adds pressure in a 1:1 ratio with boost, which is usually what we recommend. You can use MegaSquirt with a rising rate regulator, though it makes your VE tables look funny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cholag Posted October 3, 2009 Author Share Posted October 3, 2009 So I finally got the car back from the shop, he tuned it on his dyno and all that jazz but now when I am driving it I get these odd MAP signals. The only way I can explain it is when I am at a low throttle opening the car will buck and shake and then I let off the gas and slam it and it will clear up or even on a ramp up I will get these crazy map signals. Here is a datalog and msq that go along with it, you can see the crazy MAP signals that I am talking about at 348.100s if anyone has any idea as to what it could be your help is much appreciated. datalog and tune.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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