streeteg Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 I attached a picture of my dash just to show you the layout-- which really isnt important, but the long and short of it is-- I will have in total about 9 Guages that all need their own power both to operate and for the lights. So far general operation has been fine, but with all the other accesories on (heat, radio, fans etc) the guages are like the straw that broke the camels back and the volts drop considerably when they are illuminated for night driving. I am on the stock alternator so i understand that could be it, but I know for sure that the guages are wired improperly. Essentially I have one main line coming off the stalk which has all 7 guages wired to the wire-- like a large fork if you will. Should they be wired in series? Is there a power distro block I should get for this type of thing? The last thing I need is an electircal fire--- Thanks, ERic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barichardson5727 Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Awesome pic...I really like your dash. I agree that you should look into upgrading your alternator to a larger, internally regulated unit. The stock alt. is not going to be large enough if you have modified the car. As far as wiring is concerned, if you are worried about the electrical load passing through the stalk you should consider using a relay to seperate any large currents from passing through any old wiring in the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Screw the gauges, you need to concern yourself with how your shoulder harness are mounted first!!! In no way is that bar sufficiently strong enough, and it's also way too high. Should be pretty simple to fix, but it's offering you false safety at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowCarbZ Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 ^ X 2 on that. But the 101 Dalmatians shift boot can stay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 Anyway to answer the original question I would use a relay triggering a distribution block, and wire all the gauges in parallel to the distribution block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streeteg Posted June 27, 2009 Author Share Posted June 27, 2009 I am actually picking the cage back up this weekend with a freshly welded true harness bar in it. So no worries there-- this was temp just to test out the seats. Where can i get a distro block? -E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted June 27, 2009 Share Posted June 27, 2009 (edited) Makes me feel much better hearing that! Delcity, mcmaster carr... either of those should have what you are looking for. I've used these in the past: http://www.delcity.net/store/Screw!type-Terminal-Blocks/p_73274.a_1 Edited June 27, 2009 by Drax240z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streeteg Posted June 27, 2009 Author Share Posted June 27, 2009 Nice! Thanks--- Cage looks sick now that I just got it back BTW--- new pics will come soon once I get this wiring thing squared away -E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 I'm going to say that Amp draw is Amp draw whether it's on one line or on many lines. if the wire and the fuses are made to suit, the amperage drop will still be the same. technically speaking, the thicker wire will consume more heat energy in conductivity of the cross sectional width of the conductor core itself (don't measure the insulation thickness, it goes by core thickness). But that doesn't change the fact that you have plenty more gauges than issued from factory, which came with a shitty alternator to start. It will most likely benefit greatly from an alternator swap to a larger 70 - 110 amp unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 the thicker wire will consume more heat energy in conductivity of the cross sectional width of the conductor core itself If I read this correctly, it would be less. The larger the conductor, (based on load requirements), less overall wattage will be eaten up by the wire. (in the form of voltage) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeleriousZ Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 The larger the conductor, (based on load requirements), less overall wattage will be eaten up by the wire. (in the form of voltage) That is correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 I not going argue that you corrected me, woldson... good eye! (heck I'm blind in my right one anyways. haha) While true, I wouldn't say that it is being "eaten up". that's assuming that a thinner wire is eating less voltage. But in reality, it is restricting the transfer of energy and that is why it gets hot. It's the same as traffic on a highway. Technically you are only seeing a better percentage of overall useable wattage passing through the larger wire... The wattage is still in fact the same, but some of it is expelled as heat throughout the thinner conductor that is suffering from a voltage/amperage pile-up. and that's why it gets hotter when it's thinner. But it's the congestion in thinner wires and the temperature increase that makes thinner wires better for long range transfers. as the longer it is, the better it can transfer that heat energy along the entire length conductor, and not lose complete voltage in long lengths, as really large conductors do.... and it also allows the thinner wire to keep a strong voltage signal and minimal heat, the longer you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeleriousZ Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 It's a lot easier to suck a milkshake through a big gulp straw than a stir stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShifterZero Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 But it's the congestion in thinner wires and the temperature increase that makes thinner wires better for long range transfers. as the longer it is, the better it can transfer that heat energy along the entire length conductor, and not lose complete voltage in long lengths, as really large conductors do.... and it also allows the thinner wire to keep a strong voltage signal and minimal heat, the longer you go. A wire that is heating up is not properly sized for its application. If there is heat, there is voltage drop. Voltage drop = amperes x (total resistance of the length of cable in ohms). If you used a 20 gauge single wire cable to transfer 100watts at 12 volts (or 8.3 amperes) 2 feet you would have a voltage drop of 1.4%. (FYI: The recommended maximum drop in voltage is 2%.) An 8 gauge single wire cable doing the same job would have a voltage drop of 0.0089%. Granted an 8 gauge single wire cable is certainly overkill but, it was just an example to show that the larger wire has less voltage drop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garvice Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 But it's the congestion in thinner wires and the temperature increase that makes thinner wires better for long range transfers. Not sure where you got that one from either? ShifterZero is correct in saying that a larger conductor will lose less voltage. This is because there is less resistance in a larger conductor. Also, the longer you cable, the more resistance you have which in turn means more loss of voltage. So I don't know where you are getting this idea of a thin cable being used for long distance transfer? In regards to the question at hand. The terminal block drax posted will work fine. If you want something more compact, don't be afraid of running a larger wire to the instruments and then crimping/soldering off to several smaller wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 I guess I'm thinking of data applications rather than power transfer. maybe there's a whole other side to this? I'm not an electrician, but I've certainly ran a lot of data transfer wires that have a required length, and a length you should not exceed... hmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 It's a lot easier to suck a milkshake through a big gulp straw than a stir stick. and if the straw is too big... ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeleriousZ Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Well then it doesn't fit into the cup... so to speak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShifterZero Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 I guess I'm thinking of data applications rather than power transfer. maybe there's a whole other side to this? I'm not an electrician, but I've certainly ran a lot of data transfer wires that have a required length, and a length you should not exceed... hmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Sure. Data transfer is all about the integrity of the waveform. A completely different ballgame than just transferring power. But getting into that would be far too off topic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streeteg Posted July 2, 2009 Author Share Posted July 2, 2009 I love the analogies. Just as an FYI I ordered 4 10 gang terminals from delcity- Although I have to say they havent processed my order and I placed it 2 days ago--- Maybe they jsut wont charge me-- who knows. Regardless, I combined that with low draw 220 degree LED lights in the autometers... http://www.superbrightleds.com/mini-wedge.html They are the top ones--- 5 way 220 degree. Hopefully will illuminate those bad boys to where the light looks even. Ordered in natty white. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.