DStegs Posted July 8, 2009 Author Share Posted July 8, 2009 Great, now I have something to do this weekend. Learning as I go. Both with the site and my car. Attempting "signature". Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darom Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Guys, on my 76 the idle hunts between 800 and 1000 as well. If I remove the BCDD in the smog nazi Kalifornia, would I fail my next smog check? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth-Z Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Guys, on my 76 the idle hunts between 800 and 1000 as well. If I remove the BCDD in the smog nazi Kalifornia, would I fail my next smog check? Thanks! Yes you will fail the visual on the smog check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duder280z Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 It would be more involved, but I would think you could still plug up all the ports internally, then just bolt the outside stuff back on to pass the visual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darom Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Haha, yes I thought about it. Do you think I can just give it a nice bath or the design itself was flawed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duder280z Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 With mine, the valve and springs inside were pretty much shot. It wouldn't have sealed right no matter how clean it was. I don't think it's so much a design flaw, as stuff just getting worn out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darom Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DStegs Posted July 11, 2009 Author Share Posted July 11, 2009 Is the TB gasket any special material or can I make one from gasket material? Or could I silicone it sealed?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duder280z Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 You could probably make one, but they are easily obtained and really cheap. I got a couple of 'em when I did mine, I figured they were so cheap, why not get a spare. Might have been $1or $2 each. I got mine at autozone. I wouldn't try to silicone, that could get real messy real quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DStegs Posted July 11, 2009 Author Share Posted July 11, 2009 Didn't think to check Autozone. Thought the Z might be more erotic than what they have. I'll give them a call now. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DStegs Posted July 11, 2009 Author Share Posted July 11, 2009 Oh, will the 240Z bumpers fit the 280? Or is there an aftermarket that will fit and cover the body grooves for the bumpers?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duder280z Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Yes the 240 bumpers will fit. I've never done it myself, but it is a very comon mod. I believe it just bolts up, might require drilling a hole or two. There are also aftermarket options, but the 240 bumpers are the best IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 Yes the 240 bumpers will fit. I've never done it myself, but it is a very comon mod. I believe it just bolts up, might require drilling a hole or two. There are also aftermarket options, but the 240 bumpers are the best IMO. Not that simple... but not awfully complex. the bumpers are totally, 100% different from bar to mount through to where they mount into the car Decorative flimsy chrome things versus heavy impact bumpers. (the 75s were BRUTAL guys..) google xenons30 and you will find a site that will provide you with at least SOME of the 75 FSM in PDF; it is about all I have found yet. I am pretty sure he took my zip file of wiring schematics I have collected from The Internet for a 75 and posted it there as well. FYI, the 75, 76, 77 and 78 280Z all had significant differences in nitty-gritty details, and 75 is the least developed (but also simpler) layout so alot of later literature would not apply to your hardware. I also own a 75 if you hadn't gathered yet. Props to you for picking up this EFI on your own; its great to see new users pick up the books and ask informed questions. One last piece of advice I will give you is that it NEVER hurts to read through the theory section of the EFI bible fifteen thousand extra times, and alot of the testing procedures are good to re read as well... OUTSIDE of a garage setting, just for mental review's sake. The system is simple enough that anyone is capable of grokking it in fullness, if the dedication, attention, and observation is there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DStegs Posted August 5, 2009 Author Share Posted August 5, 2009 Well, I haven't gotten to removing the big old monster of a BCDD under the throttle body but I did get the idle to smooth out. I pulled the hose from the valve cover into the rubber boot before the TB and plugged the hole. Runs smooth now. Took the hose and T'd it into the hose from the crank case and ran both to the PCV valve on the bottom of the manifold. Really screwed up first though because I had epoxied shut the old pcv valve and when I hooked up the new hose system the pressure in the crank case blew out the valve cover gasket and the seal around the oil filter. Guese that could be described as a crankcase "leak" test. Oh well, new gasket and a much neede oil change solved that problem. Runs smooth now but still have to get the RPM's to drop quicker. Guese the BCDD is next. Thanks again for all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DStegs Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 Well, as one who can do or try anything, I screwed up. Way earlier in the post I said I had plugged my pcv valve to check for vacuum leaks. Well, when I taped the cracked hose and hooked up the others to a "t" fitting to join the hose from the valve cover to the hose from the crankcase and then into the pcv valve, I had forgotten that I had it PLUGGED. Well, the pressure built up and blew out most of the soft gaskets and a hose or two. Those were simple fixes. The BIG problem occured when it blew out the rear main seal. Life got busy and the car sat for a season. I now have the engine and tranny out. The engine is at the machine shope getting fitted with most all new stuff in hopes of getting it back in the car by the time of our 28th Street Cruise. (Grand Rapids has joined Detroit by having a cruise similar to the Woodward Cruise). During the removal and prep for the rebuilts' return, I did locate and remove the BCDD. I made a plate and gasket to fit over the opening that used to hold it to seal it. My simple question after the preceding confession is... Do I still have to plug the holes with sealant or will the plate and gasket do the trick? It will be sealed from the outside but I don't know if any of the holes inside will "Leak" to the others and cause a problem. OH! With everything out, I would also like to upgrade to a 5 speed transmission. Anyone know of one for sale?? Probably should do the clutch and bearing also. HHHMMMM. Rather do it now than later.. If anyone is still following this, please let me know. Thanks. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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